Dynamic though dicey weekend, with a better, stable week of fun beachbreaks ahead

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 10th May)

Best Days: Sat: small clean beachies in SE Qld. Sun: large though rapidly easing S'ly swell across Northern NSW, best at sheltered spots, only small across outer SE Qld points with a mix of swells. Mon onwards: extended peiriod of small pulsey S'ly swells in Northern NSW and small E'ly swells in SE Qld, with mainly light winds.

Recap: The surf’s been a little mixed for the last few days. Thursday saw light winds and clean conditions, with a distant S/SE swell and small residual E’ly swell across the region, whilst today saw very small surf and light winds tending onshore. Northern NSW still had some small easing S/SE swell on offer though.

Side note: check out our new subscribers-only Kirra surfcam!

This weekend (May 11 - 12)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

Saturday morning will see very small leftover swell across most of Northern NSW, with freshening offshore winds as a large Tasman Low intensifies well off the Southern NSW coast.

SE Qld should pick up a small trade swell, from a freshening E’ly flow below New Caledonia today (see chart below). The models aren’t particular keen on this source, but I think we’ll see occasional 2ft to almost 2-3ft sets building exposed Sunshine Coast beaches during the day, then slightly smaller surf as you head south from the Gold Coast in the 2ft range (very little E’ly swell is expected south from Ballina).

Offshore winds will be a little lighter in SE Qld so conditions should be clean. Expect long breaks between the sets though, as it's not a strong swell source. 

The tropical system in the Northern Coral Sea hasn’t developed as well as hoped on Wednesday, so I don’t think we’ll see any NE swell of note this weekend. The models are still picking up half a metre at almost 10 seconds late Saturday (Gold Coast) but I think this is pretty optimistic.

Otherwise, the Tasman Low is our focal point for the weekend.

Large southerly swells will start to show across the Mid North Coast later Saturday, peaking overnight across Northern NSW and then easing rapidly throughout Sunday. The biggest waves will be limited to south swell magnets south of Byron Bay - perhaps some 6ft+ sets early Sunday - but with gusty SW tending S/SW winds on Sunday, only sheltered southern ends and protected points will have worthwhile (and much smaller) options. Expect a significant drop in size by close of business Sunday.

This south swell won’t be favourably aligned for SE Qld so we’ll see a smaller spread of swell across this region, up to 2ft+ across the outer points and then a wind affected 3ft+ at exposed northern ends on Sunday. SE Qld may also pick up some building short range S/SE swell from the local fetch developing in association with a strengthening coastal ridge but it won’t be very high quality.

All in all, despite the impressive synoptic charts I can’t see any amazing surf happening this weekend. There'll be small waves around the traps but nothing worth getting too excited about.

Next week (May 13 onwards)

A blocking high will occupy the Tasman Sea for much of next week, keeping the Southern Ocean storm track quite far south in latitude and maintaining an extended period of small ocean swells and light coastal winds across our region. 

Nevertheless, the storm track will be quite vigorous within our acute southern swell window, and with long swell periods arriving in association with several pulses of fresh energy, we’ll see fun waves at south facing beaches south of Byron Bay. 

In actual fact, there’s almost one new swell front expected to push across the coast each day of the week, and wave heights should fluctuate between 2ft and maybe 2-3ft for the most part (at south swell magnets south of Byron), occasionally pulsing a little higher at times

Away from exposed south facing beaches, we’ll see much smaller surf but the outlook remains favourable for fun small waves all week if you can get yourself to a beach with good southerly exposure. 

Across SE Qld, and a reasonably high pressure ridge through the northern Tasman should maintain 2ft+ of E’ly swell across most open beaches all week. Winds will be light to moderate onshore but we’ll see variable periods in the mornings. 

There’s nothing any interest showing up long term either at this stage, but I reckon you’ll pick up some fun peaky options all week.

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 6:30am

Stoked with our new Kirra surfcam (speccy sunrise this morning too).

This shows the zoom level about half way - so we can get right in to the action when we need.

ilaydown's picture
ilaydown's picture
ilaydown Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 5:56pm

Why get a surf cam for a beach that breaks well once a year if lucky?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 7:52am

Kirra breaks once a year if lucky?

Perhaps you're talking about the village Kirra, in Phocis, Central Greece, named after two nymphs (Cirrha and Adrasteia).

ilaydown's picture
ilaydown's picture
ilaydown Tuesday, 14 May 2019 at 12:49pm

I said, breaks “well” once a year.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 7:25am

Nth NSW weirds me out the way a lot of the swell shoots past due to its hard South ( SW!!) direction.

The horizon is sawtoothed and the beach is flat.

Does my head in.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 10:03am

lee shore.

I said that once to a skipper I used to work for: look at all that swell out on the horizon and he said "yeah, but we aren't fucking surfing out there"

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 12:02pm

Sunny Coast is that x10

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 7:28am

Ain't no regional south swell in the water (yet). It's flat in Southern NSW, and they'll see the new S'ly swell (from the Tasman Low) first.

The sawtoothed (great word!) horizon is just showing building windswells in the wake of a gusty SW change that pushed off the coast. 

I know what you mean though. It's amazing how much size can vary across the NSW coast under acute S swells.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 7:35am

Small but smooth lines of E'ly swell across the Goldy beaches. Not big enough for Narrowneck's artificial reef to break though.

Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfc... Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 8:35am

Is it actually a decent wave on the reef or just breaks the swell up for the beachie?

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 8:04am

The Kirra cam. Superb!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 12:38pm

Just got out of the funnest baby food session ever.

1 - 2 feet with most waves waist high . Rode my mrs’ pink garage sale foamie AKA Pinky to great effect. That fucker will catch and ride anything.

Offshore fanning the crystal clear peaks on a shallow sand bank. No one out except a backpacker lacerating his guts trying to ride the front end of a broken board as a boogie board in the Shorey. After seeing his tiger clawed stomach walking up the beach I’ll wager he won’t be doing that again.

Suns out . No leggie . Loose schools of mullet zipping around.

Can’t be too many more board short sessions left.

Split watermelon smile each ride. Good times.

Just don’t think about the crew getting spat out of pits in the Indian Ocean and it’s happy days.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 2:58pm

similar where i was,waters got to be 22-23 ?clear as and the days dont get much better,bluebird skies........shame it will come to an end ,but more swell would be a bonus...

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 3:28pm

24.5 here.

Still plenty of mackerel about.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 3:54pm

Getting any?

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 4:52pm

Knowing that they are not far from absconding for the year I kept 3 spotted on Thursday. Got a bonus pearl perch .....very tasty. Very similar to a dhufish.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 1:35pm

Great news.

On the other side of the coin I'm wondering about the statute of limitations for keeping a new board in the house.
Normal rules in our house is a new board can stay in the house until it's waxed.
Then's it's outside.

My new Desert Storm has been sitting in the house under a table for almost a month now, unwaxed.
I reckon it'll be lucky to make the month of May if we get no proper swells.

Come on fucking Huey. it's May.

I went over Gunther Rohns shed yesterday for a bit of a shit shooting session and he said he's never seen a period of such poor banks and terrible surf.
Think he got here from South Africa in '73.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 5:37pm

I'm wondering about this "new board in the house'" biznye.

Why keep a new board in the house?

Do other people do this?

Thought that was what sheds are for..?

PS: New Stretch 7'6" Buzzgun shaping up against my Free Flight channel singley. Had the Stretch two days, and the FF for a year, neither have been in the house.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 6:20pm

mostly they get waxed up and ridden straight away, but I do like walking past them and eyeing the curves up a few times.

In the case of the DS, a few thousand times.

Not that dissimilar from the Stretch actually. Bit more curve in the outline.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 6:23pm

I was guilty of having the new board in the house,well actually in the corner of the bedroom where i could eye ball it........while ago now since wifey wasn't pleased........now they stay in the garage.That big red stretch is a beauty...what bottom contour Stu..real contrast with the freeflght.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 6:54pm

Real contrast, eh? The Stretch is almost military in how it eschews traditional lines. Deep vee through the nose into a pronounced double conc through the engine room, while on the flipside it has a convex nose up front, deck channels and max thickness running down the centre line. Very parallel outline - as you can see - with a good smack of tail flip in the rocker.

Fuck, I'm tempted to bring them inside...

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 7:27pm

Those front plugs look along way up...?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 7:31pm

Just the perspective. Position is pretty standard.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 7:59pm

7’6” looks incredible, Stu. Fingers crossed you get to truck through some caverns on it soon.

Boards live inside. I’ve got a board rack in the bedroom. The missus loves the look of them, who am I to argue ?

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 7:36am

Maxy walker casting his discerning eye over them,but hes checking the stretch out and wagging his tail!

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 2:55pm

yes its all your fault fr,time to sacrifice the desert storm......or give it to me hehehehehe.......

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 2:57pm

I'm sure if you rang my wife she would be more than happy for you to come and pick it up.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 3:29pm

I can be there by dinner time.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 3:32pm

Hey i got this ...dont sweat it blowin....fr be up soon ........least wifey will be happy.......

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 5:21pm

Had a big long stroll over headlands this arvo looking for mullet schools and sand slugs.

Amazing that almost 8 months after that bank buster in Oct and almost 3 months after Oma it's still rocky and deep everywhere.
There hasn't been a single grain of sand moved in what should be the peak normal Autumn flow.

Found a nice patch of mullet.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 5:47pm

Did the same on this blue bird offshore day today. Further south there is sand galore, only problem was it was knee high. Jeez I hope it ticks up over night,

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Saturday, 11 May 2019 at 8:19pm

Rapid and large kick here this afternoon in Southern NSW. It’s on the way!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 7:47am

Nice to see the new S'ly swell starting to show at D'Bah, there wasn't much earlier. Old mate mid-way through a nice hack on the inside too!
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thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 8:14am

Oh man, it's big in Coffs.
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Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 8:35am

Pretty well flat here so will watch longingly the comp on at the island.
https://www.swellnet.com/surfcams/shark-island

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 8:46am

Nice boards Stu. I’d love to hear some feedback on the Stretch.
When I was a single man doing as I pleased it was a board rack in the lounge room, now days it’s board rack in the garage. Fuck they are good to look at though

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 10:19am

There ya go! Tropical Cyclone Ann has formed in the Coral Sea.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 10:49am

6ft sets here. Just saw a couple of fellas go for the paddle around the big headland from the next beach south.

The size didn't necessitate it but was interesting to see.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 11:10am

Which coast mate?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 12 May 2019 at 11:11am

le ba.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 13 May 2019 at 11:54am

That wasn't a one day wonder, it was a half day wonder.

Back to straight E'ly muck this morning.

Least we got 4 hours of over 4ft surf this Autumn.