Nothing special this weekend; great options for Northern NSW next week

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 24th October)

Best Days: Mon/Tues: decent south swell for Northern NSW (small in SE Qld) with good winds through the mornings. 

Recap: Wave heights boosted a little out of the east into Thursday, and a southerly swell also added more size across Northern NSW, with sets in anywhere between 2ft and 3ft waves at most exposed beaches. Conditions were generally OK with light to moderate winds. Surf size ease from both sources today and winds freshened from the north across SE Qld, though as expected we saw light variable winds for most of the morning ahead of a southerly change that reached Coffs Harbour around 9am and Byron Bay around 3pm.

Fun E'ly swell in Coffs on Thursday

Plenty of E'ly lines at D'Bah on Thursday

Small residual south swell in Coffs Harbour this morning

This weekend (Oct 27 - 28)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

It’s not a great weekend for surfers. 

There’s not much of a fetch trailing today’s southerly change so Saturday’s looking pretty ordinary, with small residual swells across all coasts and light variable winds and afternoon sea breezes. 

Sunday looks equally small and average, with the only difference being a gusty southerly change associated with a vigorous cold front that’ll accelerate through the lower Tasman Sea on Saturday. It’s expected to reach Port Macquarie close to dawn, and Byron Bay late morning, then the Sunshine Coast mid afternoon.

Strong winds trailing the front (and a decent parent low in the Tasman) will generate a rapid increase in southerly swell, though the groundswell component won’t arrive until overnight Sunday, so the afternoon will most likely see building windswells that’ll be heavily wind affected. I don't think we'll see much of an increase north of the border either (at least across the points, which'll offer the only shelter from the southerly breeze).

More southern locations (i.e. south from Coffs) will see the wavelength draw out earlier, so there’s a chance for protected southern ends and semi-exposed points late in the day but it’s probably not worth getting excited about.

Ahead of the change, more northern locations will see early NW winds and small residual surf. Make sure you’ve got something with a lot of foam!

Next week (Oct 30 onwards)

Sunday’s southerly change will be linked in with a reasonable low in the Tasman Sea, and a series of secondary fronts trailing behind will also provide useful south swell through the first half of next week. 

Monday will see a peak in size across south facing beaches south of Byron with sets around 4-5ft, though it’ll be smaller at beaches with less southerly exposure. Local conditions are looking very good too, under the influence of a slow moving high pressure system that’ll result in light variable winds and afternoon sea breezes. 

North of the border into SE Qld, and we’ll see much less size from this south swell due to the swell direction, and a weak ridge across the coast will maintain moderate SE winds (mainly the Sunshine Coast, though the northern Gold Coast is also likely to see this influence). Early periods of SW winds (mainly southern Gold Coast) will create locally clean conditions but with just very inconsistent 1.5-2ft+ surf across the outer points, you’ll be best off heading to exposed northern ends where sets should push 3ft+ at times. 

Successive southerly swells through Tuesday and Wednesday will be of similar quality and inconsistent, but smaller in size. So, although Tuesday morning may retain most of Monday’s size, it’ll drop into the afternoon; expect wave heights to ease by around half to one foot each day (with a slightly smaller decrease in SE Qld). 

Tuesday’s winds look favourable for the early session but we’ll see freshening NE breezes into the afternoon, ahead of a full day of moderate to fresh northerly winds on Wednesday (lighter in the north). 

As such, maker the most of Monday and Tuesday - they are by far the pick of the forecast period. 

Looking further ahead, northerly winds are expected to hold steady through the rest of the week and next weekend too. 

As for surf, a building ridge through a Coral Sea from the middle of next week onwards should generate some small E/NE trade swell for SE Qld and Far Northern NSW through the end of the week and next weekend. 

Elsewhere, a series of fronts below Tasmania mid-next week will kick up some more small to moderate southerly swell for Northern NSW for the same time frame (very little for SE Qld), whilst an unstable synoptic period down south associated with a broad troughy pattern still has the potential to spin up a significant swell generating system off the Southern NSW Coast. There’s nothing of any great interest in the model data right now but most of the ingredients are certainly there.

More on this in Monday’s update. Have a great weekend!

Comments

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Friday, 26 Oct 2018 at 6:19pm

So good

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Sunday, 28 Oct 2018 at 6:19am

Ben, looks like Monday morning has a risk of SSE winds from the night before. Would you say at this stage that Tuesday looks like a better day for the Byron region?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 28 Oct 2018 at 8:28am

There may be some leftover wobble from this afternoon's change (in Byron), but winds should be relatively light by early morning, tending variable. So, no change to the outlook in general at this stage though I'll monitor the obs along the NSW coast today.

The change is now properly into the Sydney/Hunter region, and will extend north over the coming hours and should be at the border around lunchtime, though an initial wind change to the S/SW of moderate strength will precede a much gustier S'ly blow that'll trail ~3 hours behind.  

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Sunday, 28 Oct 2018 at 1:43pm

that' good, I am hoping for light SWs blowing on Monday Morning down at the Clarence to clean up the overnight swell but not too fussed if theres a little bit of bump.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 28 Oct 2018 at 7:03pm

Doesn't get much flatter than this at Snapper!

Tiny across the Superbank too.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 29 Oct 2018 at 6:11am

No shortage of south swell across the Coffs region this morning, and it's clean with light variable/offshore winds.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 29 Oct 2018 at 9:23am

Solid 4-5ft sets on the Tweed this morning.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 29 Oct 2018 at 10:19am

South swells on the Goldy, eh?

I can imagine some crew come up for a week of surfing, look out from their apartment at Rainbow Bay and think "oh well, looks like we're off to the pub early today". Whilst around the corner...
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yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Tuesday, 30 Oct 2018 at 2:13pm

I scored in a big way yesterday thanks Ben! It was a dicey call when I woke and had to decide whether or not to drive 3hrs south and saw the winds hadn't yet backed off at 4am (QLD) Monday. But sure enough, by the time I was in the water (NSW 8:30am) it was cleaning up and I proceeded to score the shite out of a certain to spot until lunchtime all to myself! Still glassy and swell still building at lunchtime but my arms had packed it in and walked away from empty, glassy barrels. Stoked

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 30 Oct 2018 at 2:28pm

Unreal, great to hear - thanks for the feedback.