Great beachies ahead for the next four days

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 13th December)

Best Days: Most days should have good to very good waves about the open beaches. Biggest on Friday. Only region with difficult winds will be the Mid North Coast; elsewhere light/variable with sea breezes. 

Recap: Small trade swells built across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW Tuesday, reaching a peak late afternoon and early this morning with weak though peaky 2-3ft sets. A small south swell has graced south swell magnets south of Byron Bay. 

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

This week (Dec 14th - 15th)

The small trade swell seen over the last 36 hours is on the way out, but will be replaced through Thursday with a fresh E’ly groundswell, generated by a broad E’ly dip NE of New Zealand earlier this week.

It’s hard to pin down the precise timing of these distant swells, because there are no wave buoys between the swell source and the mainland to verify its progress. As such we’ll have to keep a close eye on the cams and buoys. 

Based on model guidance alone, we should see a broad plateau through Friday and very early Saturday, though Thursday should see a definitive increase throughout the day. If you had to hedge your bets, the early session Thursday may come in undersized, but there should still be some decent waves on offer and we'll be on the upwards phase of the event which is usually the best time to be hitting the water for these kinds of swells. 

At its peak, surf size should reach 3-4ft at most open beaches, though the sets will be very inconsistent. Expect smaller surf running down the points.

As for conditions, fortunately most coasts north of Coffs are looking at mainly light variable winds and sea breezes. 

An approaching trough across Southern NSW will however freshen N’ly winds across the Mid North Coast, reaching maximum strength through Friday. There’s a chance for an early light NW breeze here but in general you’ll have to tuck inside a sheltered northern corner south from Yamba. 

This weekend (Dec 16th - 17th)

A stalled trough will linger off the Southern NSW coast over the weekend, maintaining northerly winds south from Coffs but resulting in a continuation of light variable winds and afternoon sea breezes throughout SE Qld and Far Northern NSW.

Friday’s long range E’ly groundswell will slowly subside through this period so you’ll have to make the most of Saturday morning for the biggest and best waves.

We should see very inconsistent 3-4ft sets at open beaches easing to 2-3ft throughout the day, with Sunday easing from 2-3ft to 2ft. It’ll be smaller running down the points but there’ll be fun options just about everywhere. Just keep an eye on those winds in the south. 

Next week (Dec 18th onwards)

In Monday’s notes I mentioned that the long term charts had a multitude of exciting possibilities into the long term period

Not much much has changed since then - we have nothing specific to gravitate towards, but the end of the model runs are becoming quite active through the Coral Sea, South Pacific, Tasman Sea and Southern Ocean - this doesn’t happen very often (normally, one or perhaps two basins will show signs of increasing activity).

Anyway, it’s still early days but the pre-Christmas period is certainly looking positive for East Coast surfers. Hopefully I’ll have something to hone in on in Friday’s updated forecast. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 14 Dec 2017 at 10:34am

Looks like that new E'ly swell is slowly on the rise, D'Bah has some fun glassy sets.

Pumper's picture
Pumper's picture
Pumper Thursday, 14 Dec 2017 at 5:08pm

Any swell on the horizon for Christmas / Boxing day period ???

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 14 Dec 2017 at 5:55pm

11 days ahead is a long time in this neck of the woods. As per the notes above there are signs but it’s early days, nothing concrete yet.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 9:30am

Nailed the timing of the swell Ben...right on forecast down here but those northerlies are howling through here already...bugger...it looks a nice swell.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 10:02am

Thanks mate, yeah checked it locally this morning and the sets were there though super inconsistent, and the high tide wasn't helping either. These long range east swells are always pretty tricky to be confident on exactly when they'll arrive, and what tides they'll favour etc.

Aren't you on the Ballina coast? The Cape has been light all morning, and only recently hit 10kts gusting 14kts (wind speeds are usually exaggerated here too, due to its exposure and elevation). 

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 12:18pm

North of the Richmond was blown out by 9am.
Was good early but.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 12:26pm

Yeah the nor'easter is up now at Cape Byron. Bugger.

Coffs is now 18kt gusting 25kt. Even starting to pick up on the Goldy (13kt, gusting 15kt). Still light E'lies on Sunny Coast though.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 12:44pm

It was a strange one...readings were way under actual winds for hours down here...it was 20+ kts before 9 at the waters edge.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 10:03am

Only stopped briefly for a look on the way into the office but there were a few fun ones if you were patient.

Luke02's picture
Luke02's picture
Luke02 Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 11:22am

Fun on the SC this morning. Let's hope it keeps on keeping on!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 11:33am

Plenty of strong lines pushing into Yamba, the consistency doesn't seem to be a major problem here either (unless I haven't seen a proper set yet?).

blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999 Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 10:05pm

Super inconsistent where I was down that way. A few decent ones tho. 20+ minutes of nothing then like 2-3 sets ect. Overhead on the sets tho.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 12:27pm

Coolum is looking pretty nice!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Dec 2017 at 4:27pm

Forecast notes won't be up until late this evening.. sorry for the inconvenience guys. Hang in there!