Punchy E/NE swell Tues/Wed, ahead of a strong S/SE swell Sat/Sun

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 2nd October)

Best Days: Tues/Wed: brief windows of light winds in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with a peaky E/NE swell. Sat/Sun: strong building S/SE swell, good points Saturday under a S'ly flow, everywhere else Sunday with light winds. Much smaller in SE Qld though.

Recap: Saturday delivered small residual S’ly swell to 2ft+ at south friendly beaches in Northern NSW, and not a lot elsewhere. Most of Sunday saw tiny residual energy persisting about the region but a strong new S’ly groundswell rocketed up the coast in the afternoon, reaching 4-6ft at some south facing beaches across the Mid North Coast. This swell peaked overnight and has eased steadily today, though south facing beaches south of the border have still managed some 4ft sets. Elsewhere, we’re seeing building E/NE swells in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW as a local fetch develops in conjunction with a slowly deepening trough off the Southern Qld coast. 

This week (Oct 3 - Oct 6)

Model guidance has slightly weakened the developing trough, though we’re still looking at a strong short range E/NE swell peaking on Tuesday before easing on Wednesday

A small low may form within the trough line, off the Gold/Tweed Coasts on Tuesday afternoon - this should bring about a period of light variable winds to a small stretch of coast - but without a synoptic offshore it’s hard to imagine anywhere cleaning up dramatically from what’s expected to resemble a partially cooked dog’s breakfast early Tuesday. 

The SE Qld will see the most size from this swell, probably in the 4ft+ range at open beaches, perhaps a smidge more if we’re lucky. The models are favouring the Sunny Coast for the most size and this looks quite plausible, though with N/NE winds likely to persist here it may largely go to waste. Smaller surf is expected with increasing southerly latitude from the border. 

That being said, keep a close eye on the surfcam and AWS networks as these kinds of unstable patterns often produce windows of opportunity that the model guidance simply can’t pin down. If I were a betting man I’d be most comfortable in the chances of a fun though lumpy Tuesday afternoon session on the Gold Coast.

South from about Byron we’re likely to see N/NE winds for much of Tuesday, with smaller surf being a combo of building E/NE energy and inconsistent though steady S’ly groundswell, generated by a strong Southern Ocean frontal pattern late last week (which delivered four consecutive days of unreal surf to the SA/Vic and southern Tas coasts).  We’ll see maybe very intermittent 2-3ft+ sets from this source through Tuesday, Wednesday before easing Thursday. It's not worth working around though.

But back to the local E/NE swell. It’ll ease through Wednesday, with early 3-4ft sets across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW and light variable winds. Slightly smaller surf is expected south from about Yamba or Coffs with winds likely to retain some degree of north. So, aim for northern corners here for the best waves. 

The rest of the week looks pretty average with freshening northerly winds and easing swells from the S and E/NE. Thursday morning is your best chance for a wave (most size, best conditions) and by Friday we’ll be feeling like the northerly plague has returned yet again, with only small waves on hand and very ordinary surface conditions. 

Looking elsewhere, and a deep Tasman Low is expected to form of Tasmania late Thursday, and although we won’t see a solid swell from it until Saturday, it will push a southerly change into the Mid North Coast late Friday. This time frame will be worth monitoring in future model updates as it could open a little window of early forerunners, though confidence is only low for now, especially with the local wind outlook. 

Lastly, a very small long period S/SE swell is also possible around Friday from a polar low developing off the idea shelf (south of NZ today) but at this stage it looks like most of the fetch will form over the ice pack so swell potential is low. I’ll have a better idea on Wednesday by which time we’ll have some satellite passes. Certainly not worth worrying about too much though.

This weekend (Oct 7 - Oct 8)

This Tasman Low is the dominant feature in the forecast charts, with a large S/SE swell building Saturday and then easing slowly throughout Sunday.  

It’s still early days but we are currently on target for 6ft, maybe even 6-8ft surf across exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW (south of Byron) with much smaller surf in SE Qld; 3ft sets across the outer Gold Coast points, and bigger waves at northern ends in the 3-5ft range. Slightly smaller surf is likely across the Sunny Coast, especially at protected locations. 

Sunday morning looks like the pick of the weekend as the swell will have plateaued, but more importantly, the low will have moved away for the coast, resulting in light offshore winds. Saturday should have good options across the regional points under a moderate to fresh S’ly breeze. Expect smaller surf at beaches with less southerly exposure.  

Next week (Oct 9 onwards)

Nothing significant showing up on the long term charts for now. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 7:54am

Better than expected winds on the Sunny Coast this morning, especially considering Moreton Island was E/NE gusting 40kts+ around dawn reaching as high as 47kts at 3am.

Alex Headland

Sunshine Beach

Coolum

Not a lot happening at Noosa though, despite the favourable direction (early high tide probably killing it).


thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 8:00am

After strong onshore winds in most regions overnight, winds are now light pretty much everywhere. 

Some impressive rain totals too - best was up on the Capricornia coast where Bundaberg has had 319mm since 9am yesterday.

As for gauges near our surf locations, Noosa picked up 129mm, and a bunch of locations inland from Coolum recorded 100mm+. Most of the Sunny Coast saw 60-90mm.

The Gold and Tweed Coasts were less spectacular with totals generally in the 30-50mm range though Pottsville picked up 57mm and Myocum 60mm. 

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 9:58am

Size range looks pretty close so far. Solid 4ft+ on the Tweed here too.

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thermalben Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 11:41am

Nice to see some action at Noosa this morning.

Pretty chunky at Snapper too!

Byron looking pretty fun though super crowded.



_benno's picture
_benno's picture
_benno Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 1:40pm

Thanks Ben, nice to see how the swell performed across the Coasts. Also nice to get rewarded with the early trek this morning, with a very manageable crowd.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 1:56pm

Jeez, there's a few crew.

Doesn't look too shabby though!





thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 3:52pm

Aye, Currumbin!

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 4:49pm

Burleigh with some E/NE bowls pushing into the point.

willibutler's picture
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willibutler Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 6:14pm

how can I attach photos

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 7:27am
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
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Halfscousehalfc... Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 6:30pm

Is Currumbin doing its best impression to be dbah in that photo?

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 6:38pm

Very fun waves, bit of push in the swell too.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 6:41pm

Ben - " Aye , Currumbin " as an nod to the Bart Simpson catchphrase .

Is this a "thing " around those parts or did you just invent it ?

If the latter....well done.

PS Could the teachers of NSW do me a little favour and end these fucking holidays NOW !

Just joking ! Enjoy everyone.

PPS Sort of not joking too. If you know what I mean.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 7:25am

We may have used it once before (in a Facebook post?) but I certainly can't take credit for it, I'm sure someone else made the Simpsons reference before me (which is exactly what it was).

1floorup's picture
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1floorup Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 6:39pm

why are there so many people surfing snapper? it doesn't even look very good, how can so many people not work? I saw Uluwatu last week and there was about 60 people in the water all spread out around different sections, but nothing looked like it was connecting up, just most people sitting around on their boards, catching small quick rides.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 6:41pm

School / Uni holidays

blow-in-9999's picture
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blow-in-9999 Tuesday, 3 Oct 2017 at 11:25pm

QLD schools started today...

Spewing as a school teacher.

I avoid the GC like the plague but most of the holiday makers in the rest SEQ / North NSW are from QLD.

Obviously you can drive across the border but there can't be that many people from the tweed side right?

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 7:25am

I know of a few interstaters on the Goldy at the moment (must also be school holidays).

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 9:27am

A bit full and fat, but otherwise very tempting at Byron this morning.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 3:01pm

Heard my first lonely cicada today.

Also got a big whiff of coconut scented sunscreen as I passed some punters on the beach .

Christmas .....here we come.

Had a countery and a beer at a bowlo brimming with sun kissed families strolled over from the caravan park just now. The vibe of summer coming was so strong you could almost taste it.

Young uns running rampant . Pubescent teens giggling with holiday flirtations as mums and dads have a couple of lunch time Bevvies and relax knowing that everyone is safe , happy , accounted for and out of their hair for a while.

Butchers paper as table covers.

This little town was cemetery empty a few weeks ago. Now the milk bar is strewn with bikes and kids scarfing chips and ice creams.

Easterly puffing lightly leaving the strong swell surfable . Big low tide . Beach wormers and fishos. Terns working the baitfish in the sandy water at the end of the rip.

Good times.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 3:05pm

Made all the more appealing reading that from the office here in Manly..

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 7:50pm

Good times indeed...nice to get a little taste of east swell today...can we bypass the northerly season and dive straight into summer trades...

lukas's picture
lukas's picture
lukas Wednesday, 4 Oct 2017 at 3:43pm

Ben you are a busy man, well someone is, anyway, good stuff, although there was acoupla other spots that have been quite nicer. no.... we won't go into it, you stay up north too blowin... he he he.