Fun trade swell for the weekend; possible Tropical Cyclone next week
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 6th January)
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Best Days: No amazing days but there'll be small peaky beachies most days worth a quick early paddle. Biggest surf expected on Sunday as the trade swell reaches a peak, though local winds will create average conditions at open beaches in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW.
Recap: A small E’ly swell across Far Northern NSW and SE Qld hasn't offered much more than a slow 2ft wave over the last two days, however as expected the Mid North Coast has picked up bigger surf thanks to a slightly better aligned fetch in the Tasman Sea, with sets around the 3ft mark observed across Coffs Harbour and Port Macquarie regions.
Fun waves at Coffs Harbour this afternoon, via our new Park Beach surfcam
This weekend (Jan 7th - Jan 8th)
No changes to the weekend forecast.
A strengthening ridge across the Northern Tasman and lower Coral Seas will build E’ly swells about all coasts over the coming days, with the biggest surf showing across SE Qld beaches. We’re looking at a peak in size throughout Sunday - so, expect smaller surf on Saturday, especially in the morning - and the Sunshine Coast will probably see sets reaching a peak around 4ft, with smaller 3-4ft surf across the Gold and Tweed Coasts and then smaller 3ft surf across remaining Northern NSW beaches.
In fact, only the SE Qld and Far Northern NSW coasts will really see much of an upwards trend as the Mid North Coast’s weekend size won’t be too dissimilar to today’s heights.
Unfortunately, a predominant moderate to fresh onshore flow will create bumpy conditions across most beaches from the Sunshine Coast to about Ballina. There’s a slim chance for isolated regions of light variable winds early morning (and also in and around passing showers) but for the most part expect below average surface conditions at open beaches. Surf size will be smaller running down the points too.
Winds should be lighter from Yamba to Seal Rocks throughout Saturday and most of Sunday, ahead of an freshening afternoon NE breeze on Sunday. Without a synoptic offshore, this basically means there’ll be a greater chance for more extended periods of variable winds.
Also in the water from very late Saturday (lower Mid North Coast) through Sunday (remaining Northern NSW coast, south of Byron) is a small long period S’ly groundswell, generated by a vigorous mid-week Southern Ocean low passing well south of the continent. This will only favour south swell magnets, with inconsistent sets in the 2-3ft range at times. The E’ly energy will certainly be the dominant swell train in the water.
Next week (Jan 9th onwards)
The weekend’s Tasman/Coral Sea ridge will be anchored across the Central Queensland coast by a coastal trough. This is expected to weaken early next week, and at the same time a new tropical depression is expected to form south of the Solomon Islands.
The models have perked this system up nicely in the latest model runs, suggesting a tropical cyclone in the central Coral Sea by Tuesday or Wednesday. However at this stage it looks like it’ll remain largely outside of our swell window(s).
However, this is a dynamic development which I’ve been expecting for quite some time, so I’ll keep a close eye on proceedings as very small alterations in model guidance could have a dramatic change in the surf outlook for our region.
At this stage the most likely scenario is a small NE swell for SE Qld beaches around Thursday (say, inconsistent 2-3ft sets if we're lucky), but I’ll update as more information comes to hand. These kinds of systems are highly erratic even with short range forecasts (let along long range) and it's an unusual swell window that doesn't have a lot of history to corroborate with, which widens the error bars somewhat.
Otherwise, there’s nothing else of any great interest in the long term charts. Monday will see easing trade swell across all regions - so make the most of what’s in the water as surf size is expected to become pretty small from Tues thru’ Thurs, along with a return to a couple of days of northerly winds (becoming very strong across the Mid North Coast on Wednesday).
We are looking at some minor activity in our trade window early next week (south of New Cal/Fiji) that should be enough to maintain small easterly energy across open beaches throughout the middle to latter part of next week, and a shallow southerly change around Thursday should whip up some small S’ly swell for south facing beaches in Northern NSW on Friday.
There’s also an interesting polar low appearing at the end of the model runs, but as a broad rule - as soon as a tropical cyclone is progged in the synoptics, confidence usually lowers considerably for long range forecasts. So anything beyond three or four days must be taken with a grain of salt.
Either way, all signs are still pointing towards some exciting developments in the Coral Sea over the coming weeks. Hopefully Monday’s outlook will have a little more confidence on specifics.
Comments
This is about the best I could muster up in SE Qld this afternoon.
This summer has better start improving quickly, or I'm going on strike.
It's been a rather long spell of particularly annoying winds now.
Wow, it's not a good start when small average Pass is about the pick of the entire SE Qld/Nthn NSW region.
Synoptic update too: The trough off the tropical Qld coast could develop into a more significant system over the next few days - possibly a Tropical Cyclone, though it'll remain at Townsville longitudes so won't directly influence our surf prospects (apart from anchoring in the ridge and thus generating the expected weekend E'ly swell increase).
Models have weakened the prospective tropical low/cyclone for early next week though it's still expected to form - and more interestingly - it's now showing a slightly better storm track, just on the northern periphery of the Gold/Sunshine Coast's swell window.
So, chances for a mid-late week NE swell in SE Qld are still on track.
Blue bottle central down your way this morning Ben. Can't say I remember them ever being so thick and so abundant as this summer thus far.
Gawd, insult into injury.
Actually looking OK at The Pass this arvo.
I,m interested in that low of Townsville, actualy thought it was weakening and slowly moving East to fizzle out.Hope so cause we steam south Townsville-Swains Monday....
What're you doing out there mate, trout fishing?
Research AndyM, used to be Mack fisherman, but jeez 70 years of catching the spawning stock has made that fishery nearly commercially unviable up North.....
Burleigh showing some promise earlier this AM!
And plenty of long lines at The Pass again too.
Want me to climb up and sort Moffats cam out, little wind affected but has got some size about it, always a good indicator for the rest of the coast, I'm missing it
The Moffs cam suffered a lightning strike just after Xmas. Getting replacement equipment is dificult this time of the year (and our sparkies are on holidays too). Should have it sorted in the next few days.
Re: low off Townsville, from the BOM this AM:
Nice lines at Burleigh this morning.
And looking pretty tasty in Coffs Harbour too:
Looking pretty tasty at The Pass this morning.
looks like any chance of cyclogenesis has fizzed out.
Burleigh and the pass have done well this week. Everywhere else.... not so much.
Fun beachies this morning, better winds, and the crew all at work or sleeping in?
I've been surfing the pass daily, holy hell I'd love the stats from the Byron Hospital for the daily injury toll.
The most stressful thing isn't the crowd in the water, it's getting a park.
Super fun beachies along the Tweed this AM, shame I couldn't surf (got a bung foot right now - been out since Xmas, maybe a few more weeks to go.. argh!).
The low in the coral sea is just being a prick.
Any one know of any footage from the Burleigh Single fin Classic yesterday? Was working and missed it. Cheers
Super fun beachies this morning on the sunny coast at around 0700
Easy 3, and an optimistic bomb 4ft coming through... happy. More please!
Updated forecast:
https://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-...