Lots of fun trade swell on the way, albeit small in size

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 14th October)

Best Days: Thurs: small E/SE swell on the Mid North Coast. Fri: small E/SE swell building on the Far North and SE Qld coasts. Sat thru' mid-next week (or later): steady, very slowly building trade swell towards a peak around Tues or Wed. Plenty of fun waves most mornings whilst winds are light.

Recap: A southerly change pushed along the Northern NSW coast on Tuesday, reaching the Mid North Coast early and the Far North Coast late (and reach SE Qld overnight). However wave heights were small and northerly winds ahead of the change created average conditions. Today we’ve seen a continuation of small swells, with mainly onshore winds from the SE, offering the only real rideable options across outer sand bottom points such as the southern Gold Coast. A stalled trough off the North Coast (lingering remnants from yesterday’s change) has whipped up a short range E/SE swell for the Mid North Coast.

This week (Thursday 15th - Friday 16th)

Northern NSW: No major changes for the next few days. The small E/SE swell originating from the trough off the North Coast (mainly aimed at points south of Coffs Harbour) will persist into Thursday morning but ease during the day. But it’s not very large nor very strong, and with average conditions under a light to moderate onshore airstream, there’s not much to get excited about. 

Size will likely ease during the day - early 2-3ft sets in the south, a little smaller in the north (1-2ft+). Winds should be light and variable early morning and this will be the best time to surf.

At the same time, a high in the Tasman Sea will firm up a ridge through the northern Tasman tonight and into Thursday, and this will generate a slightly better E/SE swell for the northern region, padding out Friday with fun waves building into the 2-3ft range by the afternoon (may be a little undersized early morning). Smaller surf is likely south of about Yamba though; note: the models don’t seem to be picking up this swell very well; they maintain smaller surf through Friday. 

A small southerly groundswell is also expected to build through the mix on Thursday and Friday, but no great size or consistency is expected from this source, just a few stray 2ft sets at south swell magnets. 

Local winds are expected to freshen from the NE during Friday but again, we should see light variable winds in the morning, and the strongest afternoon breezes will begin the south (the nor’easter may remain only light to moderate in the Far North). 

Southeast Qld: A continuation of small peaky E’ly surf is expected through Thursday, with light variable winds tending E’ly throughout the day. Nothing great but there’ll be grovellers at the beach breaks if you’re keen.

As mentioned above, the developing ridge across the NorthernTasman Sea on Thursday should kick up a small E/SE swell throughout Friday that should reach 2-3ft at open beaches by the afternoon - it may be a little undersized early morning. Again, light variable winds in the morning should swing to the east and freshen into the afternoon but no major strength is expected.

This weekend (Friday 17th - Saturday 18th)

Northern NSW: I’m still not expecting anything overly special in the surf department this weekend, unless you're inthe Far North. We’re looking at a combination of small lingering S’ly groundswell, and a small tradeswell both days that’ll probably maintain a similar size as per Friday afternoon. 

The trade swell will originate from a broad fetch in and around the Fijian region, encompassing a Tasman high and a Tropical Depression north of Fiji, keeping the fetch just inside our swell window and stationary (which is a positive for swell production, and offsets some of the negatives such as its southern extent and, a little less strength than desireable).

The Far North will see the biggest waves from this source, with sets between 2ft and maybe 3ft (and quite tidally affected) but it’ll be smaller south of about Ballina or Yamba. This size range should hold both days, if anything showing a little stronger on Sunday than Saturday. With no major synoptic pattern across the region we can expect light variable winds in the morning and moderate sea breezes in the afternoon.

Southeast Qld: This small trade swell should supply some fun waves across the beaches this weekend. Fortunately, we’re not expecting any synoptic strength in the winds so we should see clean conditions early with a light variable flow, and moderate afternoon sea breezes that’ll kick up a few bumps here and there. Wave heights should hold in the 2-3ft range across the Gold Coast both days - again, probably showing strongest on Sunday, with possibly a few bigger sets at the Sunshine Coast swell magnets. 

Next week (Monday 19th onwards)

The tropical depression north of Fiji throughout the forecast period will assist in anchoring this ridge across our eastern swell window for some time. As such we’re looking at continual trade swell right through into next week. 

Wave heights are expected to reach a gradual peak through Tuesday, or maybe even Wednesday depending on how the models evolve - this is a little later than Monday’s forecast notes suggested, however the latest model runs are pinching off a mild easterly dip and strengthening it early in the week, which suggests we could see some much better, stronger surf through the middle of the week. But that's a ways off yet.

Right now though, I’m being a little cautious because favourable developments in this swell window are not common at this time of year, and the models have been continually pushing things back to the end of the run for about the last week or so now (and today is no different).

For the moment, it’s likely that Monday and Tuesday will see more consistency in the 3ft range across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, and by Wednesday we could be looking at sets in the 4ft range. Either way, it’s an out-of-season round of fun trade swell that’ll keep everyone busy for a while.

South of Ballina, surf size will be smaller from this trade swell source all week (unless the eastertly dip does indeed strengthen; then we'll have to deal with that seperately). We have a series of intense polar and mid-latitude lows migrating through the Southern Ocean that should supply small levels of southerly swell to exposed swell magnets for much of the week, however no great size is expected. 

There is one storm of note though - a deep low and front south of Tasmania later Saturday and into Sunday, that could kick up some 3ft+ sets at south swell magnets in Northern NSW sometime on Tuesday. I’ll keep a close eye on this and will update with more detail in Friday’s notes.

Comments

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 14 Oct 2015 at 8:27pm

Byron buoy working correctly at the moment? If so it's showing something interesting.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 8:11am

Watcha seeing Don? Quick scan doesn't show much to me. All MHL data (spectral) is a little suss at the moment IMO too.

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 8:07am

As always, thanks for taking the time to produce this report :-)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 8:10am

Thanks Nick.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 8:11am

How's the zoo at Byron Bay yesty arvo?

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 9:48am

Am I the only one still a little anxious about surfing south of Tweed ?I know that sharks don't typically recognize state boundaries... but SEQ just seems more appealing at the moment.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 1:50pm

All mind games. Reports of a sighting off Currumbin last week. They're out there. Always have and always will be. Just way more people looking for them in NSW now.

If ya times up, it's up. No point not doing something you love for fear of something out of your control.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 1:57pm

For someone of a scientific bent you sure have ignored a lot of objective facts there.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 9:46am

Didn't need a 'bucketload of enthusiasm' to get me out there this morning.
Looked fun, was fun.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 9:52am

I couldn't get excited by what I saw. Nice and clean but small and weak. Will check it again in a little while and see if it's any better with the tide.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 10:05am

Seven Mile and Sharpes seemed to be focusing it ok.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 2:33pm

Had a fun lil' surf out the front of the office at Kingy on the Cab Sav, but it was only small, just 1.5ft tops. I'm sure it'd be a little bigger around the corner but it was the warm, clear water and favourable winds that won me over, not the surf. 

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 3:46pm

Nice!
Water warmed up quick, hey?

Do you do the Ballina report from the Tweed?
Just curious as it can be quite different in Ballina (I know you know this).
Because had a Mid morning walk at Nth Wall and there were guys ripping apart 3-4ft wedges at Nth Wall.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 3:51pm

Been warm ever since I got here! Ha. A foot overhead at North Wall? Wow.. maybe the SE swell expected for the Mid North Coast has reached further north than expected. Although 3-4ft is bigger than what I'm seeing on the Coffs surfcam this afternoon. Shame the buoy data isn't very reliable on the North Coast at the moment though.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 4:17pm

Yep. Nth Wall does seem to throw bigger faces and more power. Was considerably bigger than Shelley's next door.
Only 1-2ft but fun north of flat rock this morning when I surfed though.

no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 5:33pm

Just had a swim/bodybash on that bank, was still only 1.5ft but there were some very fun looking little runners winding down the line, wish I had a board with me.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 15 Oct 2015 at 3:20pm

That SE swell is performing pretty well across the Mid North Coast as expected. Sets seem to be around 3ft in Coffs.


alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Friday, 16 Oct 2015 at 7:01am

Ben r u allowed to give away the location of the coffs cam :) looking forward to this arvos report, as always great work you n the boys do!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 16 Oct 2015 at 7:04am

The surfcam location is not a secret (it's been in for around nine or ten years now) - it's at Gallows, which is a very good south swell magnet. Doesn't pick up NE swells very well and even E'ly swells are slightly attenuated but anything south of east comes in at full strength.

alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Friday, 16 Oct 2015 at 5:09pm

legend!

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Friday, 16 Oct 2015 at 7:11am

So snapper is now a surf reserve is that correct?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 16 Oct 2015 at 8:01am

Yes, the entire southern Gold Coast (Burleigh Point to Snapper Rocks).

https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2015/10/16/gold-coast-be...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 16 Oct 2015 at 8:07am

Lil' peeler off the Big Groyne at Kirra this morning.