Extended period of trade swell

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 13th February)

Best Days: Entire period: great waves across the points with a continuation of the existing E'ly swell. Pulsing strongly again around Thursday.

Recap: A continuation of what we saw earlier in the week, with open beaches seeing anywhere between 3ft and 5ft of peaky E’ly swell, and marginally smaller surf across semi-exposed points (smaller again at protected points). Winds ranged anywhere from the S/SE (i.e. Gold Coast) thru’ E (Mid North Coast) however periods of light variable winds were reported early morning.

This weekend (Feb 14 - 15)

Really, the outlook for the next few days is for a repeat of what we’ve seen over the last few days. 

Our primary swell source is a stationary trade below through the Northern Tasman/Southern Coral Sea and its position will once again favour the Sunshine Coast for the biggest waves (4ft+ open beaches on Saturday, smaller points), with wave heights decreasing ever so slightly with increasing southerly latitude. Marginally smaller surf is expected on Sunday thanks to a minor weakening of the trades later today and thru’ Saturday. 

As for local winds, we’re looking at similar conditions as per the last few days, although with a slight anti-clockwise bias: a synoptic SE flow north of the border, tending E’ly in Far Northern NSW and then NE through the Mid North Coast. Winds should however be light and variable for a period each morning, so this will obviously be the best time to surf.

Next week (Feb 16 onwards)

The trades have been very active over the last week or so, and an intensification within the back half of this fetch - just NE of New Zealand - over the last few days is generating a strong new pulse of long range swell that’s due to arrive early in the week. Model data is showing a swell front with peak swell periods in there 10-11 second range arriving overnight Sunday, and peaking through Monday

However it’s hard to have confidence on the size because some of the energy was generated just inside the swell shadow of New Zealand as the trough dipped south. The extra travel distance will also ensure very inconsistent set waves, however it’s possible that surf size will punch higher than the current modelled forecast (2-3ft), to 3-4ft - maybe even a few slightly bigger waves in the far north (ie Sunshine Coast).

Either way, with early light winds tending onshore throughout the day it’ll be well worth an early session at your favourite beach break or semi-exposed point.

Otherwise, we’re looking at a residual trade swell filling out Tuesday and Wednesday in the 2-3ft range at most beaches. Winds should be similar as per Monday (early light, tending moderate onshore during the days). 

An intensification of the trades are expected S/SE of new Caledonia early next week, and this should be an excellent source of stronger swell through the second half of the week. This should generate a good pulse of E’ly groundswell arriving early Thursday, building to an afternoon peak in the 3-5ft range through across most exposed beaches, with smaller waves across protected locations. This swell should hold through Friday morning before easing into the afternoon. So, it’s looking very promising surf-wise for much of the week across both regions.

Have a great weekend! See you Monday. 

Comments

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Saturday, 14 Feb 2015 at 3:44pm

Surfed snapper this morning even with the worky swell and a lot off double us there were a lot off good waves to be had. that bank is in great condition. Usually crowd packed as looks like there allready setting up for the quicky.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 8:18am

Interesting times ahead. Looks like shit winds could yet again spoil the parade.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 8:23am

Yeah the models are certainly progging a deep established easterly flow from later next week - hard to imagine even pockets of favourable winds under this pattern.

Still, there'll be no shortage of waves.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 8:32am

BTW, Burleigh looked nice yesterday AM (pics again courtesy Mark 'Wilba' Wilson):


donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 9:47am

Wetsuit? WTF?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 10:12am

No kidding! Been boardies weather in Sydney for months now.

goldy123's picture
goldy123's picture
goldy123 Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 10:14am

Not from yesterday no one was in a wettie while i was down there, says on his facebook "from the harddrive".

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 10:17am

Ah could be my mistake then. He posts regularly with images taken just prior, so I assumed this was the case for yesterday's pics.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 2:21pm

Hence why I asked the question above. No one in their right mind would be wearing a wetsuit in SE Qld at present, with water temps like a warm bath.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 2:51pm

Ha! Seen it before when I lived up there.. more than a couple of people wearing full length steamers at the height of summer. How they didn't pass out from heat stroke I'll never know.

seaman-staines's picture
seaman-staines's picture
seaman-staines Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 7:40pm

Seen a couple in steamers yesterday at Snapper, it's worse on the points because of the non stop paddling too. It's a sure sign of either kook or weirdo.

Haydos's picture
Haydos's picture
Haydos Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 10:41pm

Or protection from the sun maybe? Seems like the only logical reason to me

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 9:24am

Could off been some good waves next week what the wtf is going on with this wind strong East wind followed by a Northey.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 15 Feb 2015 at 9:46am

All depends on where that trough/low is steered so expect some variation in each model run still to come. But unless we get a closed low I can't see favourable winds at this stage of the game at the peak of the swell. (Again!!!)

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 2:19pm

Can't wait to see your forecast this afternoon Ben. Who'd be a forecaster, hey!!! Good luck mate.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 2:52pm

No kidding.. she's a complex one!

Nice footage from last Fri/Sat at Burlz too: https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2015/02/16/burleigh-heads-last-week-video

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 7:28pm

Surprised those guys had the temerity to paddle out with that horrible shit wind all over it.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 3:11pm

had a great sesh at Dbah early on saturday between 6-8am. was junky early then the offshores improved it and the tide dropped, overhead on the sets

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 3:28pm

Geez there is a lot off variance with wind direction Thursday and Friday.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 5:35pm

Those Burleigh walls are so beautiful.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 5:50pm

Sheepy can you put up YOUR forecaster notes please.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 6:06pm

Hi all, just wanted to know where the Sunshine Coast wind readings are taken from? Thanks!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 8:45pm

Maroochydore Airport for live obs. Forecast data point is somewhere just offshore from about there.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 9:15am

Great, thanks for that mate.

goldy123's picture
goldy123's picture
goldy123 Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 8:42pm

what time will the forecast be up?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 8:44pm

Just knocking it off now (had to pop out for a couple of hours to attend to a surfcam tech problem). Should be up by 8:30pm Qld time.

Hastoes's picture
Hastoes's picture
Hastoes Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 8:47pm

I work as a chef and i hate being asked "how long on table 1's food".
Its normally followed with an answer (from myself) full of negative language and not very positive . But i have to ask, how long is the wait on todays forecast ?

Hastoes's picture
Hastoes's picture
Hastoes Monday, 16 Feb 2015 at 8:49pm

shit, just as i was asking you answer the question, thanks ben