Great weekend of trade swell ahead
Southeast Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 14th May)
Best Days: Fri/Sat/Sun/Mon/Tues: building trade swell for SE Qld that'll deliver fun waves across the points.
Recap: Small average conditions in most regions on Tuesday. The much discussed SE swell ended up reaching the southern NSW coast yesterday (holding through today) and has pushed across the Northern NSW coast this morning (no sign of it on the Byron or SE Qld buoys yet though). In southern NSW, the swell delivered slightly bigger waves than expected - which is very impressive given its remote, unusual source and the large travel distance.
This week (May 13-16 onwards)
The SE groundswell currently advancing along the Northern NSW coast should fill into SE Qld this afternoon and through Thursday, with the swell likely to persist across Northern NSW into Thursday morning.
Unfortunately, it probably won’t be distinguishable from the pre-existing low period noise generated by the local SE airstream. So we’re looking at small average exposed points in SE Qld and the Far North Coast. Exposed beaches should pull in very inconsistent sets of about 3ft.
Winds will be lighter south of about Ballina but it’ll still be mainly onshore; the only area likely to see OK conditions on Thursday is the lower Mid North Coast which should have a variable pattern thanks to a broad ridge of high pressure. The downside is that the SE swell will quickly dry up across this region during the day so you’ll have to surf early for the best waves.
Over the next 48 hours, the trades through the lower Coral Sea are expected to muscle up and this will result in a building trade swell across the region from Friday onwards. Being closest to the swell source, the Sunshine Coast will pick up the most size, with slightly smaller waves on the Gold Coast and onwards as you track south along the Northern NSW coast (not much size is expected from this source south of about Yamba or perhaps Coffs).
Wave heights will peak over the weekend but Friday should reach the 3ft range across the Gold Coast by the afternoon, with 4ft waves on the Sunny Coast, and moderate to fresh SE winds (maybe lighter S’ly for a brief period early) will confine the best surf to the points. Expect small residual swells south of Yamba on Friday with mainly light variable winds.
This weekend (May 17-18)
Tradeswell is the main focus of the weekend, which is good because it’ll offer a wide range of surf possibilities across SE Qld. And, the good news is that the models have slightly ramped up the strength of the trade flow since Monday, which means we’re looking at a bigger peak in surf size.
As per Friday, we’re looking at the biggest waves on the Sunshine Coast (4-5ft+ waves open beaches, smaller on the points) with 4ft surf on the Gold Coast, grading to 3ft somewhere in the Ballina region, with surf size becoming consecutively smaller south of about there.
In general, moderate to fresh SE winds will dominate the region but there’s a small chance for early S’ly winds which will create the best waves of the weekend. Late Saturday and early Sunday will probably see the peak of the swell, but in general it’ll be a slow, steady trend so there’s no rush to work around any specific time frame.
Long term (May 19 onwards)
The strengthening trades responsible for our weekend swell are expected to throttle back only slowly next week, which means the corresponding downwards trend in swell will also happen at a slow pace. At this stage we’re likely to see the bottom of the cycle around the end of next week (Thurs/Fri), which means a very gradual easing trend from Sunday - as a rough guess just less than half a foot a day, so barely noticeable for most punters.
Also aiding next week's surf potential will be the relaxing pressure gradient, which will result in weaker winds locally. They’re still likely to be onshore throughout the days, but we should see a longer period of morning offshores than what we may possibly luck into this weekend.
Elsewhere, a stubborn ridge of high pressure across the Tasman Sea will probably restrict anything noteworthy forming in the central/southern Tasman Sea for quite some time. One of the main contributors to this situation is the long wave trough, which is currently amplifying SW of Western Australia.
Fortunately, it looks like the LWT may slowly shift further east during the weekend and into next week, which should allow for the North Coast’s far southern swell window to become active.
Straight off the bat, a broad, intense low is modelled to pass well to the south of SA/Vic/Tas on Saturday and Sunday (at around 50S) that’s expected to deliver some small long period southerly swell later Tuesday and into Wednesday of next week. With likely favourable conditions on hand, exposed south swell magnets across the North Coast should benefit quite well from this source (early estimates are very inconsistent 2-3ft sets).
Beyond that, the middle to latter part of next week - and the following weekend - are also on track for some additional long range southerly groundswell as our far southern swell window becomes active. More on this in Friday’s update.
Comments
SE winds Friday to Sunday? Most models are progging E/SE aren't they? Now I know that doesn't sound much of a difference but believe me that combined with some overnight cloud cover can mean the difference between land breezes kicking in overnight or not!!!
Let's wait and see Don. The BOM have also gone for SE winds Fri and Sat on the Sunny Coast however it's the likely strength that'd override a land breeze IMO (could be 20kts+). In any case I think we'd probably see an early S'ly tendency (rather than SW) so the benefits may not be quite as obvious on the SC compared to the GC.
Just reviewing the obs data and I don't know if your theory holds Don.
Winds went E/SE (and even E'ly) at the Maroochydore AWS overnight - between 10pm and 4am - then swung lighter S'ly (even S/SW) around dawn, in fact for a reasonably lengthy period of time (4am to 9:30am).
We didn't qute see a dominant E/SE trend at the Seaway but the overnight sou'easter was up in the 20kt range, however we also saw light S'ly winds here around dawn.
Even Byron was gusty E'ly until after midnight but still managed to swing W/SW for much of the early morning.
Not sure I'd class S/SW winds as true land breezes Ben....but certain beaches protected from these S/SW winds (ie dbah) looked surfable this morning for sure. Other open exposed beaches looked quite wobbly/lumpy!!!
Without being super picky, it's the gist of the theory - that the E/SE flow wouldn't break down early morning. Unless there was a coincidental early morning synoptic feature that contributed to this?
I believe I said above it can mean the difference between landbreezes kicking in overnight or not. Again, with S/SW winds plaguing most of the coast north of the border, I'd say that landbreezes didn't kick in overnight last night (north of the border).
Actually, I'd say with S/SW winds occuring, it was a tussle between the landbreeze and the synoptic E/SE flow, so it was kinda 50/50, if that makes sense. Either way the swell was wobbly and gurgly at the open beaches so it certainly wasn't characteristic of autumn swell/weather.
But didn't you bring it up in relation to my forecast? I never mentioned the word 'landbreezes' in my notes. For Friday, I wrote "moderate to fresh SE winds (maybe lighter S’ly for a brief period early)" - that's what happened this morning.
True. I was more questioning whether the synoptic winds were going to be SE or E/SE.
Mr Weather,
You sit behind your computer and rake out on Swellnet about minor infractions (in your eyes) on future wind directions. Wake up dude. What you want a job as a forecaster then start your own website. You are arguing about semantics, wake up and smell the roses. The east coast is one erratic surf zone that changes day to day, you of all people should know this.
Come on Dudette, fellas got an interest in surf forecast and likes to have a bit of to and fro with some like minded folks. No babies being eaten here far as I can see.
Worst case scenario - more hits for Swellnet, a couple of bystanders get some schooling on the nuances of weather and everyone enjoys their Friday night.
Cheers Blowin.
Dudette, looks rather E/SE to me this morning!!
http://www.seabreeze.com.au/graphs/qld4.asp
dudette, it's all good.. Craig and I enjoy the synoptic sparring Don and others bring to the site, it keeps us on our toes.
In fact, Don did a stint forecasting for Swellnet quite some time ago (the Qld region), he knows his stuff.
Don, yeah the overall flow is E/SE but I notice Maroochy again had a three hour period of light SW to S'ly winds close to dawn again this morning! Probably didn't assist the surf much but it definitely happened.
The Seaway also picked up this brief trend but only for an hour.
Ben Maroochydore weather station is similar to cooly. It's not right at the coast. Marks report pretty well confirms that (onshores at the coast).
http://www.swellnet.com/reports/australia/queensland/sunshine-coast
And I prefer my land breezes to at least kick in around midnight not just after dawn!!!
The Maroochy AWS is only 750m from the beach (see below). I wasn't aware that there was a significant difference between here and the coast, like we see at other AWSs (for example, I never use Tewantin or Ballina weather stations).
Also, Mark's report was filed at 7:11am but the Maroochy AWS reported that winds were already back to a fresh E/SE at 6:30am. So, it's possible there was a brief window right at dawn (Mark's report did say light E/SE too, although this may have been an input error).
Anyway, it's all semantics - I didn't expect a landbreeze, and only really mentioned the chance for an early S'ly in my forecast because the surf reports are done in the first few hours of the day and I wanted to make sure that - if this brief anomaly were reported by the reporters - that this possibility had been reflected in the forecast notes too.
No worries Ben. I prefer my offshores stirred and not shaken!!! ;)
Geezus it is autumn isn't it! Relentless onshores are turning a fun autumn tradewind swell into shit!!!
Yeah Don, what's with easterlies blowing in Autumn? We need all this cloud to piss right off so it can cool off overnight and start the off shores blowing. Think I'd sooner it be clear with a light northerly in the arvo than this crap, at least it goes offshore when that happens. Maybe this next week could be better.
I am so over this shit we call autumn! !!!
Weird stuff DW, would think it would be weso's,
I'm looking out my skylight at 300m above sea level, 1st thing this morning a westerly upper cloud flow below a ESE cloud flow then in the last half hour or so the ESE clouds have push under the top layer of westerly looking clouds....?
Ummm funny ol A_tumn.
Dunno what you're talking about Don, there's been heaps of surf. Lots and lots of fun days that have snuck in below the hype radar. Not much A class stuff but heaps of C and B days.
Down your way yes Steve but where I go/travel to before work its been shit.
maybe you need to expand your surf spot selection.
can't blame autumn if you go to the wrong spots.
We can't all live and surf south of Byron Steve!!! And I can blame Autumn given I've been surfing these same spots for the last umpteen Autumns and scoring super fun clean offshore conditions. This Autumn has been woeful for consistent clean offshore conditions. Christ we're almost into winter and I can count the number of clean offshore mornings we've had good fun waves. Again, I'm referring to SE Qld......not south of Byron. And god help the SC surfers.....they've had about 4-5 good days this autumn!!!
Is south strad on the way to work Don? If so, I am surprised.
MV, TOS has been onshore since late last week (Fri to today). No offshores up the top end of the Goldy all this time we've had some fun peaky tradewind swell.
Ok, so I'm getting a better understanding of how frustrated you are, if TOS is included haha
Heaps of waves, though, don..... But I do feel for goldy surfers...... I still reckon pre sand pump days were way better...... "superbank", or old fashioned Snapper, rainbow, greenmount and Kirra.....
I reckon even Burlieigh and Currumbin look like they've been affected is some way....
SD, waves are no fecking good if it's blowin onshore the whole time!!!!
Oh well, you'll soon be in winter with perfect westerlies, but dead feckn flat.... Onshore waves or no waves? Tough choice....
Have you guys seen the documentary "Sand Wars" by Denis Delestrac, seen it coming home last week on a Qantas flight, absolutely blew me away, maybe this has a lot to do with the changing of waves and beaches as Sheepio has mentioned above.
Heres a little intro, not sure how you can watch the whole doco.
http://sand-wars.com/index.html
I'm with Don on this one.
Even the land breeze cues aren't the same this season, so you can't predict when it is worth driving the night before. I say 'this season', because it isn't Autumn as we know it.
wellymon Google 'Sibelco sand theft' for a local example of fights over sand...
alakaboo, :)
I never knew this shit went on here in OZ...!
I thought this was more overseas.
Disgusting, cheers for the link champ.
Its not really Autumn is it, every month is getting pushed further ahead IMO, lets hope the next will pump like a good old Autumn.