Matt Dunbar
Wave of the Day: Damien Hardman, shooting fish in a barrel - Narrabeen
Clarrie Bouma
Wave of the Day: Sunday lineup south of Sydney

Coloured Perth

"It's been a terrible winter here in Perth," said Mike Maxted forlornly, yet immediately after uttering those word he quickly pepped up. "However I managed a little swim this arvo with some fun results."

Coloured Perth

"It's been a terrible winter here in Perth," said Mike Maxted forlornly, yet immediately after uttering those word he quickly pepped up. "However I managed a little swim this arvo with some fun results."

Mike Maxted
Wave of the Day: Phil 'Choppa' Read racing the remains of the day - Perth

William Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker. In 1978 he travelled through Samoa, Tonga, and Fiji, where he and his travel partner, Bryan Di Salvatore, were among the first to surf Tavarua. In this excerpt from 'Barbarian Days', Finnegan's surfing memoir, he and Di Salvatore have just landed in Australia, a nation of "smart-mouthed diggers with no respect for authority." Best of all, Kirra is just beginning to break....Read the full feature  37