Caretaking in the Telo Islands With Jacque 'Wobby' Botha
I was just a little tacker when I saw 'The Omega Man' on tele, and this 1971 post-apocalyptic action film starring Charlton Heston – the last man alive after a global pandemic, gunning down albino mutant zombies who’d try to invade his compound every night, etc – both thrilled and terrified the absolute shit out of me. It wasn’t so much the zombies that were unnerving, it was the fact the world had just…stopped. The emptiness.
COVID turned a few Indo surf guides into Omega Men (and Women) – crew who stuck their hands up twenty months ago to caretake hibernation-mode surf camps and resorts, to ensure they weren’t reclaimed by the jungle or colonized by the local fauna. It was a big decision to make in a hurry: scamper back home to family on the last available flights, or stick around for who-knew-how-long as the world shut down? but the payoff – empty lineups for months on end – was hefty.
With the prospect of travel becoming commonplace again, I asked a mate in the Telos, Saffir guide Jacque 'Wobby'* Botha, 27, to reflect on the experience.
*Nickname origin: ‘Jacque’ > ‘Shark’ > ‘Wobbegong’ > ‘Wobby’
2019 had been a busy year, I’d taken off in November to see my family in South Africa, then did California and Hawaii. I was heading back to the Telos in January 2020 just as all the news about Covid was starting to pick up.
We had some early season guests here but everything was starting to get crazy. The owners said ‘we can get you guys home now if you want, or you can stay out here’. Me and (fellow guides) Dingo, Billy, and Terri got together and talked about it, and thought, well, if this thing gets to be really bad, these islands might be a good place to hang. So we stayed.
In the beginning it was weird and tough. Nobody knew what was what, so we locked down everything straightaway. I was based here (at one lodge) with Billy, while Dingo, and Terri were at the other lodge, a few islands apart. On weekends we’d meet up and be in the one place. Billy kind of jumped ship and went to the other lodge just because it was easier to surf the Left. But I couldn't leave, so there was six to seven months last year where I was by myself during the week, knocking around this empty resort. It was interesting times. It was strange, just everything coming to a standstill.
But there was the surf. I would say all up, I've probably had 600 sessions either solo or with no more than three of us out.
By June I decided ‘I can’t just sit here’, so I applied to study for an online diploma through the international hotel school. I've been studying full-time while I've been here. It’s been keeping me busy and sane, having deadlines and having to smash exams and all that.
For the first two months, I was living in the staff house, and then thought, 'fuck man, these villas aren’t being used', so I secured a guest villa and made it my home.
I changed a couple of things at the resort itself. Before, everything would run only if there was power, so I set up some tanks up on the hill that were gravity fed, so there always hot running water. I’d go spearfishing every other day out the front: octopus, nice trevally.
The generator would run from six o'clock in the afternoon till about ten o’clock at night. So hot, man. For the first four to five months last year you’d wake up at two or three in the morning, chuck an Aqua gallon over your head and then hope to fall back asleep. This year I ran a small generator to run fans, charge the phones, it’s felt like luxury.
When it was obvious that the Telos were locked down and there’d be no business, we had to cut all the local staff, send ‘em home, but I retained five crew, one from each department, to keep the place maintained. My Bahasa Indonesia is pretty much a hundred percent now - we’ve hung out together a lot! Spending time with the crew it’s been wild to get to know and understand the culture on a level that I wouldn’t if I was busy guiding. It’s wild. Demons, witchdoctors, witchcraft spells, and ghosts are super powerful elements in the belief system. Every other week one of the crew would be totally rattled for a couple of days after being grabbed by a ghost in their sleep. They’d shiver like it was two degrees, just thinking about it. It’s all about Karma.
The structure around relationships and marriage is even gnarlier. If they have a girlfriend, they can’t leave her. And in order to marry, they need to save up a minimum of like 12,000 Aussie dollars, which they need to give to the family in order to secure their missus. And only then can they marry. And only after that can they have sex. The price fluctuates on the gal herself. If she can speak English, if she's handy, if she can cook, the price goes up.
In the beginning I had to explain to the locals about this thing called Coronavirus. They were like, “No, it’s a Bulé’s disease. It’s only for the white people.” And then they were saying the only way the disease could come in was if the northerlies blew hard enough, it'd blow the disease in from the mainland. They didn’t believe it could transmit through the Indonesian people. Christians thought they were immune too.
We got vaccinated in Telo, through the army. Sinovac. Probably about 70% of the population have been vaccinated, but just like everywhere, there’s people who didn't think they needed it. The Moderna vaccine’s come through as well, about four months ago.
When travel was permitted within Telos and Nias, I went up to Nias five times. it used to be eight hours on the slow wooden boat, but luckily the fast ferry was running. Fifteen bucks and you’re in Nias within an hour. So, if there was a solid south, south west swell, around a certain degree mark, I was there. For most of the time there was only a fixed crew of people who’d locked themselves in Nias. A tight-knit crew of 10, 15 people. A few coming and going from the Mentawais. Whenever it got to six foot, there were never more than four or five people in the water.
All those Nias trips were strike missions but the most recent one this year – I went there to meet my girlfriend Kim coming back from Europe – coincided with a perfect six-to-eight foot swell. No wind, four guys in the water, one or two locals, we were all pushing each other. Probably the best session I've ever had in my life.
As far as surfing in the Telos, we only had a limited petrol budget, so between swells you’d surf out the front, or places you could access easily in the little cargo boat: but at least once every ten days there’d be a swell and we’d have the fuel to get out and about. There wasn’t a break in the Telos we didn’t score with no-one out. Surfed three new spots too.
Every month or so, all the guides across the Telos, the guys from Luke’s place - Sooly and Ben - the Lat Zero boys, we’d get together for a BBQ. It’s made us a tight-knit community, even more so than before, which might be a silver lining to the last two years. When the guests return, we’ll have an even better rapport, all the resorts co-operate with each other, kind of like the old days. Hopefully the charter boats that come up here will act in this spirit too.
It’s been an incredibly weird time. There’s been moments when it’s been pretty tough, but I’ve been super fortunate: my girlfriend lives in Bali and we’ve been able to connect with each other a few times; I’ve got my study – got final exams mid-December; I really got to know the Telo way of life; and had an absolutely phenomenal surfing experience which I’ll look back on for the rest of my life. I can’t wait to catch up with the guests who come out year after year, and most of all I’m ready to see my family again.
// WOBBY (as spoken to GRA MURDOCH)
Comments
Thanks Gra, that story gave me hope for mankind. And not having to share that quality with boat loads of mongrels would be so nice. Right place at the right time for Wobby.
Sounds awful.....must have taken at least 3 seconds to make that choice to stay.
Jealous muchly , I’m really over 2ft slop
An experience of a lifetime.
Sounds like a nice guy too, awesome!
I reckon I would have learned to surf switch.
Done well.
The only time you'd get to surf uncrowded Indo in this day and age.
Still stoked on getting to surf the Telos region 30 years ago.
Yeah Wobby, half jealous, half relieved I was two weeks late to the party. See ya soon
Hopefully had a bank account full of cash for food..would probably only need $10 000 a year to cover everything including travel insurance, not sure how much a KITAS or work visa costs though.
I'd swap places with Wobby in a heartbeat.
Lucky bastard. Kudos to Wobby for working on his academics while hunkered down in paradise.
He would have needed to wank a lot!!!
In all seriousness, that would be harder than you realise... the isolation etc... however what a pay off...
That nickname origin is a pisser. "Let's see how far we can take it"
The evolution of good nickname is a classic. My mates affectionately refer to the local as "bst" now, and some of our go to spots are communicated in a series of oddly specific grunts. Not too sure on the evolution there...
Wonder how he'd go (being alone and all) if a bunch of local crooks/pirates rocked up to clean the joint out.
Those sort of people don't fuck around in that part of the world and a bule all alone would be seen as an easy target in that situation no doubt.
You'd definitely wanna have some sort of contingency plan in advance.
Great IV Gra, and totally, it'd be in the back of your mind even though being in such an isolated paradise.
Yeah, from the little I know, I suspect you can't really operate an enterprise in Indo (or anywhere) without doing the right thing by the community, from employment opportunities to sponsoring the local school to running tours through the village where your guests can spend a little coin or what have you, and just being friends. You've got to genuinely connect and be invested in the fabric of the place. I reckon that even though the guides in the Telos and Ments were on their own a lot, they were conscious to be connected with the local communities, and it would have served them well – especially if there was fuckery afoot.
I don't think it's a realistic factor.
If a local or locals did that, everyone would soon know who it was, it's a small community and most people have very little money it would soon become apparent who did it when they have goods from the resort or trying to sell goods, plus there would be no cash on the premises and little fuel, there realistically wouldn't be a whole lot you can just pick up and take that is worth a whole lot, even TV's wouldn't be that easy to grab.
Even if a group came from elsewhere it would be high risk low reward, and they would most likely get caught trying to leave the islands.
Justice can be rough, too. I know it's a way different culture on Sumbawa, but in '89, on our last day at the original camp there (up at Periscopes) a fella was caught stealing some gear. He was caught and thrown in the bemo with us for the drive back to town. I was sitting opposite him, knees almost touching, and his captor, seated next to him, would periodically punch the poor bugger in the face, the whole bumpy, three hour drive. It was horrible.
Got a similar story Gra. In 91' we walked up to Periscopes from Lakey at dawn to coincide with a high tide and 4-6ft swell. The camp was not operating by then but the local crew there would cook some tucker for you at the kitchen.
When we came in from the surf my camera was missing but I saw the strap poking out from behind a wall. Told the local lads and they kept an eye on anyone coming back to 'retrieve' it after we left.
Found out the next day the bloke responsible copped an absolute flogging when he returned as in was bashed senseless. I wished Id just grabbed my camera and said nothing when I found out.
I was in Samoa once and this guy had his fale burgled. Turned out the guest was a senior NZ diplomat. Anyway the police caught the guy that did it. That evening they broadcast the burglar's name, mugshot, and most importantly his village on the national TV news. I'm guessing that this was the extent of police involvement required. If you have any idea how under the thumb people are in those villages then you can appreciate how rough the justice dealt by the people of his own village would be. Bringing shame onto your family or village is about the worst thing that someone can do over there as far as I could tell.
lot's of stories from up banyaks region, including involving the 'forces'...
but yeh, totally different vibe up there, more isolated, no real local villages right on the scene
some pretty heavy stories actually
Insane also what the locals can get away with in those isolated spots. In the Telos, a local bloke spent his days hacking at the reef to mine house building materials. When I asked my hotel about it they said unless you ‘knew someone’ there’s no way the police would make the trip up there
The Omega Man - great film!
Much better than the Will Smith version (I Am Legend).
Ha, Omega Man is very dated, was dated before the 70s was done. I am Legend is an excellent film.
Ever read the original novel by Richard Matheson? Awesome plot twist at the end of it!
The phrase 'once in a lifetime opportunity' gets bandied about, but this is the real deal. Half his luck!
Yep what Ben said, he’ll be dining out on those memories /tales for a lifetime
Yes.Indonesia ,the land of spirits and magic.The belief is strong ,very strong and with good reason. Been to see the Dukun quite a few times in the mountains of North Sumatra. The whole show . A truly intense and interesting experience .
Is it okay if I hate this guy?
Yes. Also very jealous, this would be my dream life right now!
Surfing incredible uncrowded waves in the tropics and getting to know yourself by being on your own. And getting paid or at least food and board for it!!!
Not many people have that privilege.
Wobby in Nirvana!
Fav quote from the original Omega Man-
"What is he brothers?"
"EVIL"
Had some encounters with the spirit folk when I was in Ubud for three months in late 80s. Got to learn some of the folklore from the locals and always made sure to mind my own business and not be that dickhead.
The spirit folk would come and visit some nights. Can be very unnerving.
Spending a lot of time in isolation can be very weird even if you are at peace with yourself. Good time to write.
Meet a fellow human being and suddenly find you can’t stop talking.
The quiet earth is also a good movie, worth a watch IMO
Bruno Lawrence, left us too early aye.
Oh the poor c#$t