The first significant swell of the Hawaiian season made landfall on Wednesday (Tuesday Hawaiian time). It was the result of the remnants of Super Typhoon Nuri in the Western Pacific merging into a deep and broad storm system. 

Most forecasters expected large waves but they were caught a tad short when the swell hit harder than expected. Jaws opened at a user friendly size and increased throughout the day. It was a reported 25' on the sets in the afternoon.

Here's footage from the morning. Stick around for the barrel at 1:50.