Solander this morning

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

I didn't decide where I was gonna surf this morning till I got to the end of the driveway. South, the swell was perfect, wind ideal, tide not so much. North was further to drive but the swell, wind, and tide were primo. I swung it 180 and hammered up the freeway in the pre-dawn darkness.

The sun was rising as I pulled into the carpark. First people I see are Sam Jones and Ben Serrano who've travelled as far as I have but from the opposite direction, and Cabo who'd taken a leisurely drive from downtown Cronulla.

Out front it's pumping. The sets are missing Middles completely but it's a perfect direction and size for the Cape. Sam texts his Mum to say he's not going to school and before I can dish out a stern word on the importance of education he's down the rockshelf and out there.

2_5.jpgJeremy Wilmotte rocks up in his red girls-just-wanna-have-fun mobile, follows Sam out there and promptly goes mad. Benny and I take a bit more time. I haven't surfed Solander in a few years and I'm watching it closely. Since my last surf here I've had three kids and celebrated my 40th birthday. Doubts, I had a few.

Out the back Jeremy has shares in every set, as do two early morning lidders, one of whom nails an under the lip DK takeoff. Wild shit.

"It's as heavy as anywhere out here, eh?" says Ben. I'd forgotten just how intense Solander can be. Looking side on into the throaty ones you realise how lacking photos and videos are. The GoPro and drone revolutions have got a way to go replicating the viewing experience of these waves. Just like being there? Uh-uh...

Sam gets called into a bomb, pin drops from the lip and comes up wide-eyed. Two sets later he sticks one and he paddles out bug-eyed. Ben gets a few bombs and finds his groove. A few more crew join us: Ox McKinley, Matt Howe, Spud, a couple of Maroubra fellas, a couple more Cronulla fellas. Jeremy still has dibs on every set even though he's already lost one board to the rocks.

4_2.jpgI opened the account with a smaller one then jag a grower with a 45 degree bend section. Like banking a Le Mans turn as the lip pitches - sweet. Over the next hour I catch maybe 10 waves, no big sets, but I'm batting with a 100% strike rate. No wipeouts.

Jeremy snaps his second board and swims into the rocks. Spud sticks a super late one.

Then I paddle for a mid-ranger, realise too late it's shifted under me and do Leaping Lenny's into the flats. The pounding isn't too bad but I'm right on the shelf as the next wave hits. It pushes me up against the rock wall and I look around to see I'm just feet away from a 10 foot face of basalt and barnacles. I look up to see a couple of bemused fellas craning their necks over the edge. The fuckers looked more bemused then concerned. 

The third wave rolls me along the base of the rocks and I scrape all over. I surface next to the rock wall again. The fourth wave does the same and there's no playing cool anymore, I'm fighting underwater and come up stroking hard for the channel.

There's no more waves, and there's no more surfing from me. Tail firmly between legs I paddle for the corner to dismount. Whitewash is pounding the ledge and the timing has to be spot on. I wash up on the back of a wave, exit without drama, and call it a draw.

As I walk along the rocks Jeremy Wilmotte is jumping off them again. Three boards in but definetely winning.

Dodgy iPhone videos taken afterward. Don't it just feel like you're there?

Spud

Benny Serrano on the rocks (he'd already taken one on the head before I started filming)

Spud takes a licking then unidentified gets a nice pit

Lidder gets a rare one at Middles then Taylor Barnes at the Cape

Comments

clif's picture
clif's picture
clif Friday, 7 Feb 2014 at 1:10pm

Wooooohooooo

It's the words that took me there.

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Sunday, 9 Feb 2014 at 12:56pm

In the photos, is Ben S. wearing a hooded steamer???

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Sunday, 9 Feb 2014 at 8:40pm

Yep, with booties!

Ben might be an Aussie boxing champion, and exponent of muay thai, and many other disciplines designed to maim - he's an all-round hard man.

...poor dear doesn't like the cold but.

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Sunday, 9 Feb 2014 at 9:21pm

Wow, well I can understand if he's first in and last out.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 10 Feb 2014 at 8:55am

Well, to be fair, he said he had an ear problem so that explains the hood. And the last time I saw him surf was at a Wollongong reef where the nose of his board stabbed his ankle requiring many stitches and a three day hospital stay. Also, a few people wear steamers at the Cape, more to ward off cuts and scrapes than the cold.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Monday, 10 Feb 2014 at 11:58am

Which one is of you Stu? Did ya get the shot?!!?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 10 Feb 2014 at 12:01pm

I got a barrel shot from the morning but didn't put it in the gallery.

No shots of me getting worked on the rocks, thank goodness.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Monday, 10 Feb 2014 at 2:06pm

Nice one. Nothing wrong with having a gloat mate haha put it up in the forum!

burgsurfer's picture
burgsurfer's picture
burgsurfer Monday, 10 Feb 2014 at 4:29pm

I lived in Cronulla for nearly 10 years in my prime. You are nuts to go out there, especially post 40 yrs old... I am 36 and am surfing fit, surfing 4 times a week and riding every big swell we get but I could not even imagine being out there! Good on ya! I surfed pretty big Sharks Island and Voodoo Reef in the area. But I watched the Cape in amazement writing it off as to dangerous... a fools errand - the drop is hactic and then it is just SO close to the rocks - not even beautiful just scarey! Standing on the rocks watching it makes my stomach curdle - just crazy! It is the only wave I have ever been to scared to ride.

kerry1's picture
kerry1's picture
kerry1 Tuesday, 11 Feb 2014 at 11:30am

I agree with you Burgsurfer, I have been surfing for over 43 years and am 60 this year and still ride Outer Island surfboards by Mitchell Rae. Beautiful 7'8" big wave gun and a few others. But boy you would not get me out there. My reflex's are a bit slower now but I would still ride Winki and Deadmans at Bower. cheers
Mate.

flow's picture
flow's picture
flow Wednesday, 12 Feb 2014 at 3:08pm

The question I want answered is will return Stu?

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Wednesday, 12 Feb 2014 at 3:51pm

Photos or it didn't happen Stu... hahaha

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 13 Feb 2014 at 10:27am

What about scars as proof?

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Friday, 14 Feb 2014 at 5:04pm

yeah i suppose but only if they don't rub off with a damp cloth haha