Surf Science

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
The Depth Test

'Most surfers are scientists, few scientists are surfers'

-Chapter 1, Surf Science

In recent times the popular science field has undergone somewhat of a makeover with media savvy labcoats like Karl Kruzelnick sexing up the often-maligned pastime. And when it comes to words and explanations the eggheads can be relied upon for shooting straight and avoiding any flight of fancy.

So it is that the book Surf Science is about that exactly: surf science.

Surf Science is written by Tony Butt and Paul Russell and is the extension of a series of magazine articles on oceanography and surfing that Tony Butt wrote for The Surfers Path. First written in 2002 the latest edition of the book was published in 2008 and includes all the advances that have occurred in the intervening years, such as the development of internet wave models.

As the opening quote attests, the authors of Surf Science consider any surfer possessing basic surf knowledge to be a scientist (Hello Dr Karl!), and it is with this level of respect that they treat their readers. All theories are explained in depth and using language we understand.

Beginning with the formation of low pressure systems they then dedicate a chapter to each aspect of surf science: winds, tides, swell formation, bottom contours, map reading and many other facets to fill the knowledgeable surfers armoury.

With the growth of the internet more information than ever is available to surfers, yet the catch is that no-one teaches us how to use it properly. Butt and Russell seek to rectify this by incorporating online tools in their explanations.

With the prevalence of internet surf forecasting the temptation is there for surfers to simply read the colourful graphs and find out when the swell is coming and how big it will be. Surf Science is for all those curious folk who want to understand why it is coming and what will happen when it arrives.

Surf Science is published by University of Hawaii Press, distributed by Woodslane, and retails for $59.95.