Large and stormy until Thursday, when it will be excellent

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Western Australia Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Friday 5th September)

Best Days: Thursday

Recap

Yesterday was great across the South West with all day offshores and 3-5ft of swell, while Perth was in the inconsistent 1-1.5ft range with the odd 2ft bomb and Gero 3-4ft.

This morning the swell was smaller and in the 3ft range across the South West and still clean with 1-1.5ft sets around Perth and easing 3ft waves up at Gero. Winds have since gone onshore across most spots, but Margs is still clean with a persistent E/NE'ly.

This weekend and next week (Sep 6 - 12)

From tomorrow conditions will become poor with building levels of swell as a series of vigorous polar fronts are projected up towards us under the effects of a strong node of the Long Wave Trough moving through the region.

Strong N'ly tending W/NW winds are due tomorrow with small amounts of swell ahead of an initial large stormy W/SW swell Sunday under fresh but strengthening NW winds.

Monday should see the first really large increase in swell from two vigorous polar fronts pushing up into us, building to a stormy 12-15ft late in the day in the South West, 3-5ft in Perth and 6-8ft up at Gero with strong to gale-force W/NW winds.

The swell should ease from a similar size Tuesday morning with fresh but poor W/SW tending W'ly winds.

A secondary large and longer-period SW groundswell is due on Wednesday afternoon and Thursday morning, generated by a polar front projecting a fetch of severe-gale to sub-storm-force SW winds from east of Heard Island up towards the Bight.

This front will push through the Bight, resulting in rapidly improving winds as the swell eases Thursday.

A late kick in size is due Wednesday to 12-15ft in the South West, 3-4ft in Perth and 6-8ft up at Gero with fresh but easing SW tending S'ly winds, with Thursday easing from 10-12ft, 3-4ft and 8ft respectively.

Winds should swing light offshore from the E/NE creating great conditions across most locations with variable breezes into the afternoon making for a full fun day of waves.

Longer term we'll likely see a new swell for next weekend, but we'll review this and Thursday's conditions on Monday. Have a great weekend!