'Bombing low' to bring large spike of swell

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Monday 21st August)

Best Days: Today, tomorrow morning, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday morning

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Moderate sized reinforcing W/SW groundswell this afternoon, easing temporarily tomorrow AM, ahead of some new, slightly bigger W/SW swell tomorrow PM, peaking Wed AM
  • W/NW tending gusty S/SW-SW winds mid-late AM tomorrow, fresh but easing NW tending W/NW Wed
  • Large spike of W/SW groundswell arriving on dark Wed, peaking overnight and easing steadily Thu while tending more SW
  • Mod-fresh N/NW winds Thu (N-N/NE for a period to the east in the AM)
  • Easing swell Fri with NW tending SW winds
  • Large SW groundswell later Fri, peaking Sat with mod-fresh S/SW tending S winds
  • Easing swell Sun with E/SE-SE winds

Recap

Saturday morning started a little slow but the mix of W/SW swells filled in through the morning coming in at a slow 4-5ft on the Surf Coast and 6ft+ to the east with fairly clean conditions across protected spots.

Yesterday was a little more organised and smoother with easing sets from 4ft on the Surf Coast swell magnets, clean all day and today looks great with a reinforcing pulse of mid-period W/SW swell that's holding 3-4ft west of Melbourne. To the east it's 5-6ft with cleaner conditions, doable across selected breaks that can handle the size.

Wait for these chunky sets Saturday

This week and weekend (Aug 22 - 27)

This morning's mid-period W/SW swell is due to be reinforced by a stronger pulse of W/SW groundswell during the day, providing more consistent sets in the upper range of what's currently being seen as winds shift N/NE and freshen to the east while holding from the N/NW on the Surf Coast.

The swell is expected to ease temporarily into tomorrow morning but hold 3-4ft on the Surf Coast and 5-6ft to the east, building again mid-late afternoon as the next pulse of W/SW energy arrives.

This slightly bigger swell has been generated by a great, broad fetch of strong to gale-force W/SW winds firing up between Heard Island and Western Australia late last week and on the weekend, producing a moderate to large W/SW swell for later tomorrow and more so Wednesday morning.

Stronger 3-5ft sets are due on the Surf Coast Wednesday morning with 6-8ft sets to the east, with a stronger W/SW groundswell due to arrive on dark, peaking overnight but showing the most size Thursday morning.

Firstly, coming back to the local winds tomorrow and an early W/NW breeze is due ahead of a trough and SW change mid-late morning, while Wednesday looks clean all day with fresh NW tending W/NW winds.

Looking at the larger pulse of W/SW groundswell for later Wednesday and Thursday morning, this will be produced by a 'bombing low' forming to the south-west of Western Australia today. That being a low dropping rapidly in surface pressure, at least 24hPa in 24 hours. We'll actually see this low drop 40hPa within 24 hours, from 979hPa early this morning to 939hPa tomorrow morning.

With such a rapid drop in central pressure, we'll see severe-gale to storm-force W/NW-W/SW winds winds forming around the core of the low as it tracks east-southeast through our swell window and broadens in scope.

This will result in a large spike of W/SW groundswell that looks to arrive on dark Wednesday, followed by swell from a slightly more SW angle Thursday morning. Sets to 5-6ft are due on the Surf Coast early (larger overnight), 8ft to the east, easing steadily through the day under gusty N/NW winds, that look to be N to the ease through the morning.

Friday looks cleaner and smaller with NW offshores, but a strong, strengthening trailing frontal progression looks to bring a SW change late morning and new large SW groundswell for Saturday.

We're looking at a great fetch of gale to possible severe-gale winds and large surf back to the 6ft range on the Surf Coast and 8ft to the east but with average winds as a high moves in behind Friday's change. This looks to bring S/SW winds on Saturday, SE on Sunday. We'll have a closer look at this on Wednesday and confirm.

As the swell eases winds look to shift from E to N favouring the beaches into early next week.

Comments

icandig's picture
icandig's picture
icandig Monday, 21 Aug 2023 at 2:33pm

On ya Craig. Getting a bit of a tickle in my throat......might need a sicky Wednesday..

Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a lon... Monday, 21 Aug 2023 at 2:37pm

Wednesday looks very good to me. Time to suit up esp. since the ski season has basically been a dud this year.

Andrew W's picture
Andrew W's picture
Andrew W Monday, 21 Aug 2023 at 3:35pm

Wednesday afternoon on the incoming tide for Westernport and surrounds?

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Monday, 21 Aug 2023 at 8:04pm

Impressive system!
I can imagine this low keeping the wozzle theme running and lighting up trestles 3 days before the comp

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 7:57am

Ha.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 7:56am

Ascat looks pretty nuts.

Looks like we'll see an earlier arrival of the swell as well, pushing strongly Wednesday afternoon, so there could be some 8ft bombs on dark.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 5:26pm

You could be right - I can see a band of brown in the scan.

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 5:41pm

Craig. What sort of size we looking at for the early, up to around lunch? Still 3-5ft?

Hoping to get some of that late arvo juice too

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 6:12pm

Yeah would expect that size mostly.

Weatherman's picture
Weatherman's picture
Weatherman Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 5:35pm

There could be a band of brown in my wetsuit if one of those 8ft bombs lands on my head.

anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 8:29pm

Anyone else feel like water temps are milder than usual?

Maybe wetsuits are better although mine is 4 seasons old now.
No ice cream headaches this year ...

VicRhino's picture
VicRhino's picture
VicRhino Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 8:31pm

I was just saying that on the weekend… feels warmer than past winters (old suit too)

Stok's picture
Stok's picture
Stok Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 8:42pm

Maybe, or maybe we're all just better acclimatised as we're actually surfing more frequently!

anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 9:55pm

I wish that were true - I'm surfing once or twice a fortnight.

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 10:04pm

Feels warmer for sure. It’s at 13.2 atm, usually gets under 12 this time of year from memory?

blackers's picture
blackers's picture
blackers Tuesday, 22 Aug 2023 at 10:09pm

Agree. I have been wearing a 3/2, not usual for August.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 23 Aug 2023 at 6:44am

Mild in Sydney as well, only on the weekend did it maybe get to 16.5 or so.

Feels like it's been around 17-18 for a while here.

the_b's picture
the_b's picture
the_b Wednesday, 23 Aug 2023 at 12:10pm

Ocean swimmer mate said his clubmate reckons it got down to 14.2deg last week... this is Manly. I'm sceptical of that reading and reckon he didn't dunk the thermometer in the water long enough

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 29 Aug 2023 at 8:16am

Yeah not accurate. Inshore the water cools overnight so it's not an accurate representation of the temperature in the surf zone out the back.

SC Mick's picture
SC Mick's picture
SC Mick Wednesday, 23 Aug 2023 at 7:42am

I was thinking the same. I bought a new wetsuit this year and thought it was be best thing ever, maybe the water just isn't as cold

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Wednesday, 23 Aug 2023 at 8:25am

http://www.baywx.com.au/temps.html

then scroll back through the years. kinda interesting for curiosity's sake

In saying that, feel like the water has been fine for Vicco standards. Still the threat of ice cream headache is real, depending on what you're paddling out in to!

Speaking of which, what exactly is ice cream headache? Is there a scientific term, and why does it only happen in the first 5 mins then you're sweet?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 23 Aug 2023 at 8:27am

Black line, is a bit warmer this year.