Active swells, though winds let us down

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday January 13th)

Best Days: This morning, Surf Coast tomorrow morning for the keen, protected spots later Sunday for the keen, Surf Coast Monday morning

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Easing mix of swells tomorrow and an early W/NW breeze
  • Building mix of W/SW swells Fri PM with gusty morning W/NW tending strong W/SW winds
  • Moderate sized S/SW swell building Sun PM with strong SW winds, easing Mon with a morning W/NW breeze

Recap

Poor conditions across all locations yesterday with a fresh to strong onshore wind in the wake of Monday evening's change.

Today we've got a mix of weak, new localised mid-period swell and more distant, building W/SW energy with lighter winds and fun waves across all locations. Surf to 4ft+ is being seen on the Mornington Peninsula, 3ft to the west with a touch more size and strength due into the afternoon but with sea breezes.

This week and weekend (Jan 14 - 17)

Today's and more so this afternoon's mix of swells will ease into tomorrow morning, with the size due to drop back from 2ft to possibly 3ft on the Surf Coast swell magnets, 4ft to the east under a morning W/NW breeze, favouring the Surf Coast. Winds will shift onshore late morning but without too much strength ahead of a strong SW'ly late afternoon.

Into Friday morning the swell will be at a low point and a fresh W/NW breeze will again favour the Surf Coast, but it'll be a slow 2ft at best on the sets. We'll see winds shift W/SW late morning and strengthen as a mix of inconsistent W/SW groundswell and localised W/SW swell fill in.

The groundswell has been generated by a healthy, though distant polar low that formed east of Heard Island, with the remnants of this system due to project into us through Friday while generating a fetch of strong W/SW tending SW winds. The track of this secondary intensification isn't too well aligned for swell production with most of the energy due to be aimed west of Cape Otway. In any case we'll see some W/SW swell spreading off this, arriving later Friday and easing Saturday.

Size wise, the Surf Coast is due to build to an inconsistent 3ft+ later Friday with the inconsistent groundswell and the localised swell isn't due to top this, with 4-6ft sets developing on the Mornington Peninsula. Winds will be onshore and strong from the W/SW in any case.

The mix of swells are due to ease Saturday from a similar size, 3ft+ on the Surf Coast and 4-6ft to the east but winds will be strong from the SW, tending W/SW through the day which will only favour a select few locations.

Sunday looks more likely to offer an early W/NW'ly on the Surf Coast (SW elsewhere), though small, with winds reverting back to the SW and strengthening through the morning west of Melbourne. A new mid-period S/SW swell should build into the afternoon, peaking late in the day/evening, generated by another strengthening polar come mid-latitude front pushing up from the south-west.

A persistent fetch of strong to near gale-force SW tending S/SW winds should produce a moderate sized swell, building to 4ft+ by dark on the Surf Coast, 6ft+ to the east but with those onshore winds. The morning will be much smaller and more so around 2-3ft and 4ft respectively.

The swell will ease Monday but still be fun in size, dropping from 3-4ft on the Surf Coast and 5-6ft to the east and winds will hopefully be light from the W/NW through the morning, SW into the afternoon.

We'll then see another strengthening polar front developing late in our swell window , more to the east as the activity pushes up into the Tasman Sea (under the influence of a node of the Long Wave Trough) but locally winds will go S'ly Tuesday, though we'll review this in the coming updates.

Comments

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Wednesday, 13 Jan 2021 at 1:42pm

Where you end up A.Z? You would of got shacked off ya gnar!

Weatherman's picture
Weatherman's picture
Weatherman Wednesday, 13 Jan 2021 at 3:20pm

Not a bad forecast for the SC for this time year. W/SW quarter winds and some swell. Hopefully some small clean waves to be had at various locations. I hope the East Coast had a couple of good days.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Wednesday, 13 Jan 2021 at 7:06pm

2 drownings on MP today. No good.

Walk around G's picture
Walk around G's picture
Walk around G Thursday, 14 Jan 2021 at 8:58am

No good BR :( Bushranger Bay is very isolated, that could have been a lot worse with 4 swept into the water....not usually too many people down in that area when I've ever visited that place, emergency services/assistance a longway off too.

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Thursday, 14 Jan 2021 at 10:01am

Sad news. It's actually turned into a really busy spot now with out of towners thanks to online blogs/instagram (is there anything that it doesn't ruin?). Was an unpredicable swell with a bit of push behind it on the MP yesterday so would have been some big surges up the rocks

Walk around G's picture
Walk around G's picture
Walk around G Thursday, 14 Jan 2021 at 9:37pm

Wow, busy, hard too believe. I remember back in the day (90's) walking down there with a few mates, surfing till dark and then being scared shitless of all the big kangaroos thumping through the bush on the way back to the carpark! Sure the waves ain't amazing but a pleasant day out enjoying nature. Fond memories of those days.

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Thursday, 14 Jan 2021 at 10:40am

I surfed at Bushranger Bay a couple of times in the 80's. From memory not a real good place to go for a swim if you haven't got ocean swimming skills.

Not surprised to hear it's real busy now. Where isn't?

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Thursday, 14 Jan 2021 at 11:00am

Sad news indeed. Unfortunately there's far too many folk out there that don't understand or respect the power of the ocean.

Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a lon... Thursday, 14 Jan 2021 at 7:01pm

"Sad news indeed. Unfortunately there's far too many folk out there that don't understand or respect the power of the ocean."

Unfortunately that is very true. The sea at Bushranger's Bay is a wild place. I would not go out into the water there. I pick safe and protected spots to swim and surf. I respect the power of the ocean.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Thursday, 14 Jan 2021 at 7:43pm

great diving on a flat day out there. Also at the rock out crop straight out from there. Big crays