Strong westerly swell inbound

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victoria Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday 18th November)

Best Days: Selected spots tomorrow, Friday morning protected spots, Saturday for the keen, Sunday morning exposed beaches

Recap

A small mix of westerly swells to the 2ft range on the Surf Coast yesterday morning, fading through the day with poor surf on the Mornington Peninsula, workable on Phillip Island.

Today we've got improving conditions on the beaches with a drop in swell back to mostly 3ft across the Mornington Peninsula, 1-2ft on the Surf Coast magnets. We should see the swell hold into this afternoon with the arrival of a small, reinforcing mid-period W/SW swell as sea breezes pop up early-mid afternoon.

Clean lines this AM

This week and weekend (Nov 19 - 22)

Through Sunday and Monday a surface trough drifting south-east from the Indian Ocean formed a low pressure centre, with a significant drop in pressure and intensification seen through our western swell window, south-west of Western Australia.

The low dropped more than 24hPa in a 24 hour period classifying it as a 'bombing low' resulting in a fetch of severe-gale to storm-force W'ly winds developing in our western swell window.

Satellite passes of the low have picked up an impressive swathe of purple, storm-force (50kt+) winds, with the low weakening slowly yesterday but still maintaining a fetch of gale to severe-gales in our swell window.

The storm is pushing slowly east today while weakening further but still maintaining a fetch of strong W'ly winds in our south-western swell window.

The slow movement of the low and longevity will translate to a prolonged groundswell event, initially west in nature and swinging more south of west through Friday and easing Saturday and Sunday.

The most size is due later tomorrow afternoon as the long-period W/SW groundswell energy fills in, but Friday should maintain plenty of size before a more noticeable easing trend is seen through Saturday.

With the westerly component expect inconsistent surf in more protected locations, but as a guide tomorrow morning looks to be a small 2ft or so on the Surf Coast, 3-5ft to the east, quickly ramping up through the afternoon with the arrival of the swell and reaching 3-5ft on the Surf Coast (3ft in protected spots, 4-5ft swell magnets) with 8ft sets on the Mornington Peninsula.

A slight drop in size is due Friday but the Surf Coast should hold around 4ft most of the day, 6ft+ to the east before easing Saturday from the 3ft and 4-5ft+ range respectively.

Looking at the local winds and a general freshening N/NE breeze is due across the state, becoming stronger into the evening, with a late SW change due to impact to about Lorne into the evening. There'll be periods of N-N/NW winds on the Surf Coast through the day but the reefs are likely to be generally wind affected.

Our onshore change for Friday has been delayed just a touch with a W/NW breeze due through the morning, shifting S/SW mid-late morning, providing a window in protected spots.

With the delay in change on Friday, Saturday looks dicey with lingering onshore S/SE-SE winds, but only light, creating workable waves for the keen as the swell eases.

Sunday looks cleaner and better on the beaches with a light E/NE-NE morning breeze but the surf will be on the way out, 1-2ft on the Surf Coast 3ft and easing on the Mornington Peninsula.

Next week onwards (Nov 23 onwards)

A small reinforcing W/SW swell is due on Monday but winds look funky with a surface trough moving in from the west not being overly well resolved between the forecast models EC and GFS.

We may see early N'ly winds, shifting W/NW through the day, but coming back to the swell and it's currently being generated by a relatively weak cold front north-east of the Heard Island region and will weaken south-west of WA tomorrow, leaving an inconsistent, small, mid-period W/SW swell to travel towards us.

The Surf Coast only looks to reach an inconsistent 2ft on the sets, 3-4ft+ to the east, but we'll have a closer look at this and a possible stronger frontal progression developing through next week on Friday.

Comments

damienrdrew's picture
damienrdrew's picture
damienrdrew Wednesday, 18 Nov 2020 at 12:01pm

Will the swell be too westerly to run into western port Thursday afternoon for the incoming tide?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 18 Nov 2020 at 12:06pm

No, there should be waves, though small and inconsistent.

stylemaster1970's picture
stylemaster1970's picture
stylemaster1970 Wednesday, 18 Nov 2020 at 1:29pm

Wind will be an issue though damiendrew. Side shore with ridges up 2-3ft faces.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 18 Nov 2020 at 2:55pm

That as well. Thanks SM.

Walk around G's picture
Walk around G's picture
Walk around G Wednesday, 18 Nov 2020 at 5:59pm

Could the step-up get yet another run? Only time will tell, looking pretty solid 'n fun for this time of year.

Weatherman's picture
Weatherman's picture
Weatherman Wednesday, 18 Nov 2020 at 9:59pm

Just hoping the wind has a hint of west of North rather than East of North to open up more options for the Surf Coast tomorrow afternoon.

FreddyWaters's picture
FreddyWaters's picture
FreddyWaters Wednesday, 18 Nov 2020 at 10:10pm

Late evening 13th sesh with 200 guys on each peak yes please

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 5:58am

Ping..

Also a few new sets starting to show..

Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 6:28am

Ha was just looked at the buoys, can hear a bit of swell from the deck even with the off shore, looks like it is almost at the peninsula too.
Hey Craig any idea of the timing between sorrel and Portsea ? Is there a formula to use or is much more complicated ?
Most people recon 6 hours. I always say the more west in the swell the closer the arrival time between the 2. the more south the longer time.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 7:15am

I totally understand that everyone would love an easy number to plug in - 3 hours, 5 hours, 8 hours etc. But it's very complex.

One of the problems with questions like "any idea of the timing between sorrel and Portsea?" is that it assumes the Sorell data you're looking at right now has direct correlation with specific surf conditions. It's not the case. Every swell event is different, and buoy data can be misleading, because the time between the leading edge of the swell and the broad plateau of its peak varies considerably. Sometimes it's a few hours, sometimes it's a day or more.

Yes, there are simple equations to determine swell speed from one point to another - but that alone won't provide you with the information you're ultimately looking for (which really is, when will this swell peak at my local).

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 7:42am

Can confirm swell arrived at around 7, I got bloody flogged haha. Nice in the lead up, had a bit of push to it

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 7:56am

How good, PNP picked up the 22.2s forerunners at 6:30.

And re timing, for a general idea and taking Ben's comments into consideration, you take the peak swell period and multiply it by 2.775 and that'll give you the travel speed. Then just find the distance between the buoy and your region to work out the estimated travel time.

There are differences when looking at direction though, with a west swell arriving earlier than a south swell due to the less distance it was to travel.

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:28am

How we get 2.775 again? Wasn’t it period x 1.5 = knots. Knots x 1.85= km/h?

Edit: have you cut out the crap and have a nice direct multiplier?

Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:41am

where you going bone
The H hit razor reef last night bank good
3 out
might get a tad large for it this arvo though
maybe the rights outside of the left to the left of razors you might need some eyes on ya board though

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 1:03pm

Was surfing the peninsulas most famous close out with that guy from friends. Corporate type. No shacks from the waves but a kooks board gave me a bit of vision. Think chopes and the jet ski haha

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 9:02am

Yep that's it. Can also go the other route of..

Speed (km/h) = 2.81 * period

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:02am

Kicking..

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 11:48am

Solid 8ft now

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 12:58pm

Nice lines at Torquay.

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 3:30pm

C18-CBDFE-B320-49-BF-9-D6-D-AFB47-F2611-B8

Hope your not in a wettie up there still Benny boy!

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 9:00pm

wetties up north = PPE for deadly tropical jellyfish

Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 5:58am

Think the captain froth went west, he's been practicing switch.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:30am

Haha, that's crazy!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 1:05pm

13th beach looking nice too (must be bigger bombs as there's a few guys sitting further outside who let these ones through).

​​​​​​​

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 5:23pm

pretty filth

super sick conditions

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 5:39pm

Yeow been sent some gold from today. Some places smoking!!

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 5:49pm

Totally. I was indulging 90's me above.

At a lesser spot, 3-4ft sets, many on the 3ish side and a decent spread of smaller waves/lulls. One set came through though, getting toward the 4+/5ish size, just 4 waves, cleaned me up.

The smaller waves were pretty cool, as these could be picked off constantly in the lulls, a couple of them really built up in size power (different direction? refraction?) and so they'd wall up, go steeper and you'd get flying along.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 6:52pm

How good and interesting! Re the smaller ones running faster and growing. 

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:54pm

Yep! Is there anything in the formation of a swell that can lend to this? Does the initial period have anything to do with it? Or some fetch of a different direction within the storm?

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 7:14pm

Yep had a cracker of a morning, beautiful clean 3-4ft foot and plenty of nice walls to play with. The warmth was a shitload of icing on the cake

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:59pm

so nice!

willibutler's picture
willibutler's picture
willibutler Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:31pm

Pretty on point about the onshore change timing 8:30pm

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 9:46pm

Thanks. Saw this small feature and felt I had to mention it. I love those intricate calls. 

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:40pm

Rasta report showing Bellarine absolutely cooking late arvo / tonight

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 8:48am

Yeh I saw Rasta's photos. Biggest/cleanest combo I've seen for 13th in a long time, looked epic

Stok's picture
Stok's picture
Stok Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 2:12pm

Gotta love solid, clean 13th.

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Thursday, 19 Nov 2020 at 8:52pm

Only knock today was the loooong wait between waves (Torquay area)

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 6:19am

how big the sets there Ringy?

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 6:30am

3 to very occasional 4ft by late arvo

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:32am

Good waves ahead of the change..

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 8:21am

Even WP was good from 1st light and very few ppl around, everybody surfed out from yesterday?

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:37am

Late arvo yesterday

3-F40-F7-DC-5-A9-B-4-BAD-9217-B76-F3-DE6-B4-D2

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:44am

Monster, think I've seen the same vid and he got smoked eh?

pittsy's picture
pittsy's picture
pittsy Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:53am

Fark that's heavy, any chance of a link to the footage or further shots?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:59am

Yeah I got sent video so can't share sorry.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:55am

Craig, Yep.

Pitts I just got sent that, no video

Stok's picture
Stok's picture
Stok Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 2:11pm

Far out I've got to surf Westernport more often!!!!

;)

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 7:55am

mp?

pittsy's picture
pittsy's picture
pittsy Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 8:04am

No worries, like freeride i'm guessing mp as well hat's off to the bloke thought that looks ridiculously heavy

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 11:37am

.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 12:52pm

Still decent sets at the exposed spots on the Surf Coast where I was this morning. Wind held and it was consistent. Long period and plenty of push. Bonus too was that there weren't many CO.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 1:23pm

Yep thanks to the longevity and slow movement of the low. Improving direction for the SC as well.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 1:32pm

Is that WMCO instead of NCO? If so, your grammar is slightly off. NVMCO is probably the best alternative.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 1:34pm

WD.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Friday, 20 Nov 2020 at 1:43pm

Thanks for clarifying Ben. Duly noted!