Minor swells for the weekend with a sizier S swell next week

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri 30th August)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Minor S swell possible later Sun into Mon for NENSW
  • Background E’ly swell supplies a few small, very inconsistent sets from Thurs, persisting into next week
  • Stronger S’ly swell likely Tues/Wed, favouring NENSW for size
  • Small E’ly blend keeps surfable waves through the end of next week with NW-N winds
  • Possibly a stronger S swell by late next weekend - check back Mon for latest updates

Recap

Tiny surf yesterday with a weak blend of NE windswell and background E swell to 1 occ. 2ft and clean conditions early before NW-N winds kicked in. A trough brought a S-SE change up as far as the border with winds switching back NE again late in the day. New S swell showed across NENSW today with 3-4ft of swell at S facing beaches (occ. bigger set at S swell magnets like Ballina) and small 1-2ft surf in SEQLD. Nice conditions early with light winds now tending mod/fresh NW-N.

S swell showing nicely across the MNC this morning with light winds

This weekend (Aug 31-Sep1)

No great change to the weekend f/cast. Gales out of Bass Strait are less well aligned for swell propagation up the East Coast so looks like a pretty quiet weekend swell wise. A N’ly fetch now looks a notch stronger and extends up into Fraser Coast latitudes so we should see some workable NE windswell through Sat (mostly 2ft) extending into Sun morning.

Mod/fresh NW’lies tomorrow, will tend N through the a’noon, so you’ll need to hit the beachies early for a cleanish wave before it bedcines backbeaches only. There should be a rideable wave across most backbeaches with some minor background E swell also in the mix. 

Similar winds to Sat with a morning W/NW-NW flow tending N’ly at mod paces. Another small blend of NE windswell and background E swell offering up rideable 2ft surf on Sun, possibly with some minor S swell across the North Coast S swell magnets in the a’noon. Nothing special but there should be enough energy to ride a shortboard on Sun if you aren’t too fussy.

Next week (Sep2 onwards)

We’ll see a deep parent low finally moving below Tasmania early next week after generating multiple large swells for Victoria. As the low moves eastwards we should see a final frontal passage through Bass Strait and with a fetch SE of Tasmania, generating a sizey S swell for Tues/Wed next week (see below).

Mon looks small with minor S and E swells to 2ft with pre-frontal NW-W winds through SEQLD  and NENSW initially. We’ll see W-SW winds across the North Coast by lunch-time, tending SW through the a’noon. Those winds should sneak across the border around or just after dark- probably too late to clean up the N’ly sea state. 

We’ll see a much stronger S swell fill in Tues as well as plenty of S-S/SE winds as a concurrent high pressure ridge brings a SE surge. Expect mod/fresh SW-S winds early, quickly tending fresh S-S/SE through the day. That will generate some short range S/SE swell in the a’noon as well as longer period S swells which will arrive early in the day. Expect a windy 4-5ft of S swell across the North Coast regional Points with smaller 2-3ft surf building at S facing beaches in SEQLD. Some minor E swell will supply some small peelers on the Point. 

We’ll see more sizey S swell Wed with winds rapidly laying down as high pressure moves NE into the Northern Tasman. Get in early for a morning W-W/NW flow and expect winds to clock around N-NE by late morning, without too much strength. By late Wed an easing trend will be in play and with N’lies expected you’ll want to surf in the morning if possible.

Not much for the rest of the week, although background E swell should hold a floor of inconsistent 2ft sets at open beaches. High pressure at sub-tropical latitudes and an approaching inland trough will see winds tilt more NW-N through Thurs and Fri, possibly tending more W’ly over the weekend with a weak front.

That should generate some small S swell for next weekend. There is some indication of a stronger frontal passage early or later next weekend suggesting a stronger S swell pulse but model agreement is poor leading to low confidence on size and timing. 

We’ll keep eyes on it and report back Mon with the latest updates.

Seeya then and have a great weekend!

Comments

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 1:36pm

With all this N talk, just had a flashback to those epic sessions where strong Nlies give way to offshores and it pumps sidewinder 2-3ft barrels down the beach for like 2 hours and goes flat again, blink and you miss it. Haven't had one of those for a while.

Today saw kids in swimmers jumping off bridges, hazy skies, long pedestrian crossing wait times (granted, student free day for some)... no easing into the heat this year. Though bring that 10c drop next week on!

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 2:43pm

Spoken like a true sunncoaster - wishing for those days ;)
You a goofyfooter sprout?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 3:23pm

Natural Solitude, though I find on some of those little swells the rights can bowl harder (but shorter), how fun are they. Last one I remember was a lunchy just me and a mate getting swept down the beach from bank to next bank for a couple hundred metres then running back up to chase it again. Was almost flat by 3pm for the knock-off crew, no-one believed us it was pumping haha.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 5:32pm

Nice mate. Yes I know the ones. Used to live up there and fondly remember a couple of sessions like that.
Let’s hope La Niña kicks into gear and we don’t get a ‘true’ spring

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 2:50pm

Oh yeh man i love those swells! I'll take just about anything right now though haha

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 3:13pm

Didn't get some this morning?

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 3:29pm

Nah I didn't Friday man but didn't suss you way like planned, up here was pretty bad... Ended up surfing a mates log at belongil which was fun.
Looking forward to Wednesday hopefully, maybe, potentially being good!

GreenJam's picture
GreenJam's picture
GreenJam Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 2:41pm

Nice one Sprout - that reminds me of some epically fun sessions! Good memories, thanks

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 5:22pm

Graja-gaggin.

re: NE sidewinders.

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 7:30pm

Those NE wind swells can have fun moments but my first thought is cold dirty water with salps and weed!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 31 Aug 2024 at 1:47pm

Mid 30's temps in Ballina, Evans Head and Casino.

Actually feels closer to 40 in West Ballina right now.

Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard Saturday, 31 Aug 2024 at 2:23pm

Crazy

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 31 Aug 2024 at 2:26pm

What do you think, acceptable anomaly or is the future here?

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 6:11am

Unacceptable. The duration of the heat, the extent of the country it has played out over and the margins by which the event has broken existing heat records, all point to a very abnormal event. Imagine a cold event of similar scale, impossible! Of course Australia lends itself to more extremes of heat than cold, but the upward temperature trend across the continent clearly shows an increasing bias to heat events.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 31 Aug 2024 at 2:51pm

36.9 degrees in Evans Head right now- that has to be a winter record.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 7:43am

Actually reached 37.4 degrees, with humidity down to 22%. Bushfires been popping up all across the region over the last few days too.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 7:41am

Odd temp trace at Cape Byron overnight - the afternoon max got to 24 degrees, temps then eased to a low of 20.7 degrees at 7:30pm, then climbed to 27.7 degrees at 1:30am! Now back to 23 degrees. No major strength in the wind at the time though direction was slowly backing from the NW to the W.

Didn't really see the same effects anywhere else though Yamba and Grafton Airport's diurnal trends were slow overnight - and did trend up by a couple of degrees around 1am as well.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 7:45am

Some small gurgle yesterday a'noon.
Got the spring/summer foamy out for a bash.

It was very humbling to watch Rob Machado out there - absolutely ripping.

I think that is where the greatest skill differential is between pros and joes- in tiny slop and in heavy waves.

The way he could generate speed out of tiny, weak little windswells was amazing.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 11:31am

Agree Steve. But he also weighs all of 65kg.

I remember back in 2000 Rob and Shane Dorian rocked up at the Maldives where we were surfing. The speed they got in good waves was also Fcking impressive!!!

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 10:12am

He also has spent the last decade making a million different variations of fish boards and testing them in weak waves.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 10:22am

100%.

He's absolutely tiny in real life- just a little rubber band of a man.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 8:01am

Riding a Cado ?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 8:04am

I don;'t think so- think it was a twin fin fishy thing.
But I could be wrong.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Sunday, 1 Sep 2024 at 11:32am

Happy Father’s Day to all