Extended run of large, windy surf

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Monday July 29th)

Best Days: Experienced surfers every day

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Large S'ly swell building today, easing tomorrow AM
  • Reinforcing large S/SE swell tomorrow PM
  • Oversized S/SE groundswell later Wed, peaking Thu AM, easing slowly into the PM, more noticeably into Fri
  • Strong S/SW winds, tending SW for a period in selected spots each morning this week
  • Easing mid-period S/SE-SE swell Sat, with a moderate + sized E/SE-SE swell for Sat/Sun
  • Fresh S/SW tending S/SE winds Sat (SW selected spots early)
  • W/SW tending SE winds Sun
  • Slowly easing E swell next week

Recap

The weekend was generally tiny, but today we’re seeing a rapid jump in new S’ly swell across the Mid North Coast, making it’s way further north.

This week and weekend (Jul 29 - Aug 4)

These notes will be brief today as Steve covers the Olympic surfing event.

Buckle up, we’re in for a sustained runs of large, windy surf thanks to a significant, broad low pressure system dominating the Tasman Sea.

The low will go through multiple phases over the coming days, with the first phase being gale-force S/SW-S winds projected up the southern NSW coast last night and today.

As the low broadens and matures today, we’ll see an additional fetch of S/SE gales extending from Australia down towards New Zealand, reaching severe-gale strength off the southern tip this afternoon/evening.

This early phase should result in a strong, large surge of S’ly swell as we’re seeing today, peaking tomorrow morning (then easing) before the S/SE swell energy fills in through the afternoon.

Expect wave heights ebbing and pulsing between 8ft+ tomorrow on the south magnets, (1/3rd the size the size on the Gold Coast) while come Wednesday, the fetch of severe-gales off the southern tip of New Zealand surging slightly towards us should generate a larger pulse of S/SE-SE groundswell that should arrive into the afternoon on the Mid North Coast, later to the north and peak Thursday morning across most locations.

Strong 10-12ft surf is due across the NSW south magnets late Wednesday and Thursday morning with the Gold Coast likely to come in at 3-5ft across the points Thursday, with more size on the magnets (smaller Sunny Coast).

It won’t be until Wednesday that the low starts to weaken and move north, and with this we’ll see the swell slowly drop away in size and period through Friday, likely still 8ft+ across the magnets but easing.

Into the weekend the S/SE-SE swell energy should continue to ease from 6-8ft range, while some new E/SE-SE energy due to be in the mix Saturday afternoon/Sunday thanks to strong to near gale-force E/SE winds projecting off New Zealand’s North Island.

At this stage 4-6ft surf is likely, easing into early next week but we’ll review this Wednesday.

Coming back to the local winds and this week will see strong S/SW-S winds in general, tending SW for a period across selected locations each morning this week (especially from Wednesday onwards).

Come the weekend, fresh and gusty S/SW tending S/SE winds are due (likely SW early across most spots), with Sunday offering better W/SW tending SE winds.

All in all an incredible outlook of sizey swell for the experienced.

Comments

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 9:29am

Anyone score? I'm crook but went for a walk yesterday afternoon to see my local pumping out 4-6ft shorie barrels with the old fire hose spit. No takers either! Not sure if it was because of these sharky times, too windy (although it was mostly offshore) or what. Haven't checked it out this morning...

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 1:02pm

4ft+ shorie barrels with fire hose spits? sounds like my dream surf. where is your local?

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 7:30pm

https://imgur.com/a/5SRSqnY

Someone took some photos, not mine but gives you an idea. The rights weren't as square, ran longer and looked more makeable.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 10:52am

Massive here right now.
10ft on the outside.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 11:15am

Still tiny on the majority of the goldy

cam.jw's picture
cam.jw's picture
cam.jw Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 1:00pm

your forgot to start your forecast report with, "Sunny Coast surfers, don't continue to read on".

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 2:09pm

why ? That next pulse of swell is 5.5m at 166 degrees, it'll definitely be getting into the sunny coast.

cam.jw's picture
cam.jw's picture
cam.jw Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 5:14pm

Yeah, I take that back. It’ll be marginal. Top end had picked up a bit with a nice howling onshore.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 6:39pm

Haha sheet well hopefully theres enough swell around when those winds improve

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 2:21pm

Huge and sweepy.

Deffo dropped off from this morning but still 6-8ft out the back.

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 3:49pm

Just checked out a SE facing beach. 10ft plus. Washing up and over the grass in the dunes.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 30 Jul 2024 at 4:11pm

Nice!

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Wednesday, 31 Jul 2024 at 8:37am

Biggest I've seen this year this morning. Even overwhelming a pretty protected spot.

Anyone want to report on how the points are handling it?

Juliang's picture
Juliang's picture
Juliang Wednesday, 31 Jul 2024 at 9:05am

Sometimes there’s a sweep at Snapper on a Southerly swell , and sometimes there isn’t, not depending on size ?