Rinse and repeat beachies
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wed Feb 21st)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Fun trade swells with light morning winds Thurs/Fri (N'lies will kick in during Fri, so get in early)
- Window of good winds Sat with fun, easing trade swell
- S'ly change pushing across MNC Saturday, into SE Qld overnight
- Fun semi-exposed points in SE Qld / Nthn NSW on SUnday
- S'ly swell building across Northern NSW Sunday
Recap
We've seen unreal surf across most open beaches for the last few days, generally 3ft but with intermittent 3-4ft pulses. It's been smaller along the regional points, and conditions have been clean with light morning winds and moderate afternoon sea breezes. Hope you got a few!
This week (Feb 22 - 23)
Make the most of Thursday, as we’ve got northerlies on the menu for Friday.
They’ll be slow to develop north for about Yamba so there should be a respectable window of light NW winds favouring the wide open beaches, but the Mid North Coast will see a shorter period of workable conditions before fresh cross-shore winds restrict surfable to protected northern corners.
Thursday should be clean all morning with only light to moderate afternoon sea breezes taking the sheen off things after lunch.
As for surf, the reinforcing trade swell of the last few days - sourced from a distant fetch - will ease back in size, to be replaced with new energy sourced from a broad ridge across the Northern Tasman Sea (see below). This fetch will extend much closer to the coast, which will ramp up the consistency a few notches (the last few days have seen lengthy breaks between sets).
Size should manage 3ft+ across many exposed coasts both days, with smaller surf running down the points. Get into it!
This weekend (Feb 24 - 25)
The main feature for the weekend is a fresh southerly change that will reach the Mid North Coast mid-late Saturday morning, and the SE Qld region overnight into Sunday morning.
Ahead of the change we’ll see moderate NW tending W’ly winds, so Saturday’s shaping up to offer more fun E’ly swell - however the northern ridge of the responsible high pressure system will be retreating and easing by this time, so we will see a very gradual easing of wave heights over the weekend, though not much - occasional 3ft+ sets are possible both days but I feel it’ll generally be back to a slower 2-3ft.
Sunday also has some southerly swell on the cards, originating from two sources - a morning windswell (from Saturday’s change) and an afternoon groundswell, from the parent low as it rounds the Tasmanian corner on Saturday morning.
3-4ft sets are possible at south facing beaches (mainly south of Coffs) with smaller surf elsewhere.
Sunday’s southerly breeze will remain fresh north from Yamba - so it’ll be a day only suitable for semi-exposed points and other sheltered spots - however we will see easing breezes tending SW along the Mid North Coast, which should open up a greater number of potential surf spots.
Next week (Feb 26 onwards)
There’s still nothing major standing out in the long range charts at the moment.
The most interesting synoptic developments are a possible tropical cyclone in the northern Coral Sea (positioned outside of most swell windows), a strong zonal flow below the continent (again, aimed away from NSW’s swell window).
Otherwise, minor background trade swells will occupy most of next week.
See you Friday!
Comments
Unreal surf across open beaches??Where?It's been absolute shit on the sunshine Coast...
Second that
Yeah been so frustrating up here, onshore close outs dawn till dusk
Had me worried. Been checking the cams frequently and looked rather ordinary for the most part every time I looked. I had a fun surf on Monday, but mostly because there was swell above 2ft and winds weren’t absolutely howling. No real quality waves to speak of however.
All week's had clean winter-esque offshore mornings, 3ft +/-, shacks here and there. Busy as though where I found it.
I find it hard to believe with such conditions, it's hard to find a quality wave with that much beach to hunt in the region?
They're right about the top third, local has been meh. Somewhere in the bottom two thirds has been great. ;-)
Thats unfortunate. It has been cooking on the Gold Coast every day since Sunday. This morning was nuts before the tide swallowed it up.
And blue bottles
Beachie banks here have been pretty av.
Yeh banks arent much good down your way mate, some nice banks north of where i am if you got time to have a scout around.
nice jump in size this morning , long waits but fun clean conditions with a couple of floggings thrown in .... love this time of the year .
How good, conditions don't get much better this morn
Anyone get some of that S swell yesterday?
Ben mentioned in notes.
I can't find much trace of it on the buoy data and I wasn't paying much attention to S swell window over the weekend.
Been pretty fun on the MNC. So many people in wetsuits! Even fat people!
What's with that?
Whaaaaat?! Fat people don’t surf!
Best morning of the swell today on the SC
Kinda feel sorry for those coasts where things haven't quite lined up the last few days. But to be honest, more of a sorry not sorry kinda deal.
More interestingly, these obs kinda go against some recent thinking that - under certain synoptic/swell patterns - when some beachies are on, they're all on (similar to sand flow along the points.. they're often all good, or all shithouse).
Local wind obs can tell a very different story 30-60 minutes afield, especially up here.
Yep got caught out a couple mornings this swell, wind swung as I hit the sand
What I have been noticing for some time of late at my local spots around the Coolum area, is the annoying drag that seems to be a feature of the surf of the moment. By that I mean, regardless of tide, it sorta almost always feels like you're taking off in a rip. None of that lovely glide onto a wave and drop into the sweet spot. More paddle, paddle, paddle, late drop, maybe make it to an open section maybe straight closeout.
Fair fckin pumpin this morning!!! Just me and a mate. Well plus a late addition, but he only had one fin so we decided to come it at that point.
hahaha bet you were glad you werent surfing alone
Well actually I had already started paddling in as I was knackered and it wasn’t til I got to sure and turned around that I saw my mate scrambling for shore. He saw the shark not me.
What sort of shark only has one fin?
One that’s had its pecs and tail chopped off?
When I read the initial comment I was literally thinking ‘Gee, this guy must really hate hipsters’ hahaha
That's what I thought - "Fucking mal riders" :)
+1 pumping GC Beachies...swell muscled up compared to yesterday for sure.
All time. What a week.
Stick a fork in me Jerry, I'm done!
Great surf down Sydney way as well! Been in boardies since November, mental.
yeah great morning, mix of south and east swells worked a treat.. solid too
Mate said bigger today but better shaped beachies yesterday, looks clean now.
Just surfed a MNC back beach. The sets were solid 6 foot + with a light northerly making it very clean. Easily double the forecast size
Swell direction?
East
Some real beef in the sets here this a'noon.
4ft+ on the bigger ones.
Yeah same. I’d go as far and say possibly nudging 5ft on the freak sets.
Every bit of 6ft at the exposed beachies where I was today. Surfed point break instead, still 4-5ft there. Magic morning, fully toasted now though!
oh yeah, so toasted.... at work after a morning session, someone mentioned I looked like a zombie with zinc on.. piss-holes in the snow.. 2 days not surfing in the last 2-3 weeks of waves... so broken....feels like I am on a surf trip.. happy days....
A couple of rogue bombs close to pushing, I kiiinda want to say 6ft, maybe not but solid, at one patch of sand this morning, just that one particular bank. Half the size up the beach. Lots of straight handers.
wow big size difference, you north of the river? was a nice 3-4 ft at that popular open beachie stretch this morning , really fun waves
Yeah North. Mainly 3-4ft but this one spot had a couple of proper top to bottom kegs.
copy,
yeah NNW hit early, beachies on the GC were pretty av.... still surfable, but compared to yesty etc... didn't do it...