Easing weekend before a windy week of waves, then a potential tropical source
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Fri 15th July)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Easing S'ly swell all weekend, biggest south of the border
- Light winds Sat, freshening NW breezes Sun though very small by this time
- Tiny surf conditions Mon with offshores
- Gusty S/SE winds from Tues to the weekend, with a mix of strong S'ly thru' S/SE swells all week, wind affected in Noerthern NSW and pretty small in SE Qld
- Chance for some unseasonable (?) tropical swell into the longer term
Recap
Building S’ly swells reached a wind affected 4-5ft+ across Northern NSW’s south facing beaches on Thursday, and anywhere between 1ft and 3ft across SE Qld depending on exposure to the south. Today’s seen a similar size but with better quality swell lines, and more manageable winds.
This weekend (July 16-17)
No change to the weekend trend outlook, with the current south swell easing rapidly both days, and light variable winds on Saturday in most areas giving way to light to moderate NW breezes in SE Qld on Sunday, which will become stronger as you head south from the border, along with a slight tweak in the direction to the N/NW across the Mid North Coast.
South facing beaches in Northern NSW will pick up the most size, with 3-4ft+ sets at the swell magnets early Saturday easing to 2-3ft by the afternoon, and holding a slow 2ft through Sunday. Expect smaller surf at beaches not open to the south.
North of the border, most beaches will be very small on Saturday (~1ft) but south swell magnets may see early 2ft+ sets before size eases further through the afternoon and into Sunday, when surf prospects will become marginal at all but the most reliable of south swell magnets.
Next week (July 18 onwards)
Very small surf conditions will persist into Monday morning across the Northern NSW Coast (tiny to flat in SE Qld), with moderate NW tending W/NW winds ahead of a late S’ly change across the lower Mid North Coast.
This will be a precursor to an extended period of fresh S’ly tending S/SE winds from Tuesday through Saturday or Sunday, as a strong frontal system passes through the lower Tasman Sea and a ridge firms along the East Coast.
We’ll see a building mix of swells during this period: some short range local swell from the ridge but more prominent will be a mix of S’ly groundswell from the parent low/front down south (Tues/Wed) and then a smaller but better S/SE tending SE groundswell sourced from new Tasman Low that will have developed in the wake of the front, off the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island.
Model guidance is even suggesting a slight retrograde back towards the Australian mainland into Wednesday (see below); and I like this system the best as the swell angle will allow for better size prospects away from south swell magnets, which will be quite wind affected.
As for size, we can expect a windy 4-6ft at south swell magnets (south from Byron) from late Tues into Wed, with 4-5ft+ S/SE tending SE swell through Thursday and Friday, though I wouldn’t rule out the chance for an upgrade in this pattern and thus bigger surf outlook from the Tasman Low. Of course, it'll be much smaller at beaches with less southerly exposure.
Across SE Qld, the swell direction won’t initially favour much size north of the border (i.e. Tues) but from Wednesday onwards we should start to see some small peelers across the semi-exposed points around the 2ft+ mark. Exposed northern ends will be bigger but much more wind affected.
Longer term has some some ordinarily unseasonable tropical activity in the Coral Sea, which is seemingly becoming the norm. It’s a long way out and should be viewed with caution, but certainly suggests another pattern of dynamic activity in the Tasman Sea may not be terribly far away.
Have a great weekend!
Comments
Well that changed quick. Looks like a serious system to bring rain, wind and big swell north of the boarder from Wednesday. Could be a wild one.
Christmas in July!
(well, more like Feb/Mar in July, but that doesn't have the same turn of phrase)
The 5 metre East swell model would be a rather interesting occurrence for already depleted beaches.
Banks were just starting to come back to life and now this system is gonna Fck they over big time. Oh well with spring hitting early yesterday and today it probably doesn’t matter what the bank situation will be like anyway!!
Now 6 metre lol. It's not often the models head upwards the closer we get.
Out of curiosity. If this weather pattern plays out as it says today. Have we seen anything this big outside of cyclonic season before ?
July 2019?
July 2001 swell was pretty darn amazing.
Previous la Nina's,has there ever been a low form anywhere near the one forming this week!!?? In July!!?? Or August or even September?? Refresh my memory some please...
Yes.
On several occasions.
Aug 2007.
This was about the best Superbank swell I've ever seen.
6-8ft from end to end.
Ye gads!
Black and white, four hPa increments, those old MSLP charts are boring, are they not?
They're a work of art Stu!!
2hPa increments, 2B pencil on paper.
Lurvely.
Work of art IB.
That was a quick and dirty one done a mad rush yesterday morning. I'll see if I can find a good one.
We do them every three hours, and they are crucial for situational awareness, checking on model performance, etc.
And they are such a pleasure to do.
Latest one. Bit of gradient over the South Island today (118kt gust at one of the mountain AWSs)
Looks tight over Cook Strait too.
Very. 67 knots in Wellington.
Who do you work for IB
MetService (NZ equivalent of BOM)
Nice work.
I’m jealous!
Is that Metvuw?
MetVuw is Victoria Uni's weather stuff.
Thanks I didn’t know. I have been looking at their maps for years. Plenty of lines compared to BOM. I do like how they overlay the rain forecast also.
Agh didn't notice it was recent, nice!
Pretty good modelling, actually. Even has an indication of the barrier jet on the South Island west coast.
I'm amazed you didn't cross any isobars on the drawing out north-west and south-east of the country.
It happens!
Just Googled barrier jet, was never aware of this. Interesting.
Steve and Craig, we now require you to include hand drawn charts in your forecaster notes please.
Here ya go ;p Not quite as sexy as IB's.
https://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/victoria/2022/07/18/go...
Your seasonal stuff out-sexies my little hand drawn analyses hands down.
Ha, cheers.
Bank buster shit cluster. Everyone go to Noosa
yeah not happy Jan, has been some epic sand formations around turning normally average waves into good ones... If the forecast stays true, not sure if even Kirra will handle it on the GC......
It's going to be quite the shit show if it even comes close to what's predicted. Wonder what we'll get off the back of it and how much sand will be about. Enjoy today's sunshine!
Today was insanely spring like. Flat ocean and warm as. Almost took my shirt off walking the dog on the beach at lunch it was that balmy.
Yep same, that slight oil look to the ocean instead of winter clean. Not too worried yet, still Ekka winds to come, once the wind shows with an N after that I start scowling out to sea.