Serious pulse of SSE swell ahead early next week after a weekend of small, clean waves favouring South of the Border
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri 8th July)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Nice kick in S swell Fri for NENSW, smaller in SEQLD with offshore winds
- Small clean surf Sat, favouring NENSW
- Small clean surf Sun AM (tiny in SEQLD), with an a’noon increase in strong SSE swell for NENSW
- Strong SSE groundswell Mon, with SW-S winds
- Easing SSE groundswell Tues with clean conditions
- More S swell expected later next week, stay tuned for updates
Recap
This has really been an event favouring NENSW, with size yesterday in the 3ft+ range, and mostly clean conditions for most of the day. SEQLD saw much less size- in the 2ft range at Goldy swell magnets and smaller on the Sunshine Coast. Size has increased south of the border today with 4ft sets at S exposed breaks, smaller 2ft on the Goldy and tiny on the Sunshine Coast. Conditions were A-grade with an offshore flow across the entire sub-tropical coast-line.
This weekend (July 9-10)
No great changes to the weekend f/cast.
We are still under the influence of a slow moving, complex Tasman Low (formerly ECL), a strong high in the Bight and a weak trough/low forming near Tasmania. The new trough/low is generating gales out of Bass Strait and up towards the South Coast. The main low is drifting towards the South Island and intensifying today, with gales to severe gales expected to retrograde NW back into the Tasman Sea (see below), generating a large swell for Sun/Mon.
Most of the weekend will be prior to this pulse so we are looking at a blend of S’ly quarter swells both days with offshore winds generated by the position of the low/high combination. Expect surf in the 3ft+ range early at S facing beaches in NENSW on Sat, smaller 2ft on the Gold Coast and 1-2 at S facing and Northern corners on the Sunshine Coast. Early W winds are likely to swing more SW through the a’noon, scuffing up the more exposed S facing coastlines.
Small clean surf from the southern quadrant continues into Sun, down a notch into the 2-3ft range at S facing beaches in NENSW and less than 2ft on the Gold Coast, tiny on the Sunshine Coast.
We’ll see surf get very solid Sun PM across the Mid North to North Coast, as long period SSE swell builds in from the retrograding low near the South Island. This should be noticeable mid a’noon on the Mid North Coast, filling in right before dark across the North Coast. Some 5-6ft sets are on the agenda, if the timing if advantageous to your area.
Next week (July 11 onwards)
Sundays pulse extends into Mon with plenty of size. We’ll expect to see solid 6-8ft surf at S exposed breaks Mon morning with outer Bommies and Bars in the 10ft+ range in NENSW. Even SEQLD should see solid 4-5ft surf at S exposed breaks. Winds will be perfect for regional Points, with a W/SW to SW flow, extending into mid-late morning before tending light S’ly and laying down as the low moves away and weak high pressure fills in across NSW.
By Tuesday we should have dreamy conditions with light offshores on offer, likely tending to light N’lies in QLD. Strong mid-period leftovers in the 5-6ft range in NENSW, smaller 3-4ft in SEQLD should open up a range of good to great surf across the region. All day offshores will preside over a slowly easing swell. Definitely a day to pencil in.
By mid-week another front is expected to arrive and interact with lingering troughiness in the Tasman to form a new low, although much weaker and more mobile than the current event. Models have been inconsistent run to run on this event, so it’s likely we’ll need to revise substantially on Mon.
For now, we are looking at a low spot in size Wed, though with residual swell holding in the 3-4ft range in NENSW, smaller 2-3ft in SEQLD, with winds freshening from the SW as the front pushes through and kicks off the new low.
A thin fetch of SSW/S winds adjacent to the coast is expected to see a moderate S swell Thurs, in the 4-5ft range at S facing beaches in NENSW, smaller 2ft in SEQLD.
The front and low is then expected to move away quickly, leading to a rapidly declining swell signal from Fri into next weekend, July 16/17.
We’ll be tracking a very strong frontal progression/polar low through that period, with a view for more S swell into the week following July16/17.
Check back Mon for a full update and have a great weekend!
Comments
Nice and early on a Friday. I like it freeride.
Got fok all work done this week. Lay day weekend and off to some more crackers Monday and Tuesday.
Yeeew
Shame that swell monday is so large. Gonna gut all of the nice sandbanks that were finally forming.
Now that the time has passed, I can safely say that Mon and Tues this week were properly pumping at one of the beaches around here. Shallow banks, bowly punchy peaks, light offshore, happy days.
Started a new gig working FIFO in New Guinea on a 28day on, 28day off rotation, nowhere near the ocean, middle of the jungle, with no scope for excercise outside of work. The last months the longest I've gone without a wave for as long as I can remember, at least the last 5 years +. Was feeling concerned about regressing/timing/fitness/fomo et al the whole hitch, but this past week has shown me that sometimes a break can be the best thing for your surfing. After the initial shoulder burn, probs from the wetty aswell, as I left Country wearing a vest only and the tender ribs. I feel so much more connected and driven to achieve what I want each surf. More in the moment and in command, I think. Anyway, completely different perspective. Whereas surfing everyday I felt so much more frustration. Something to reflect on for anyone else who thinks they may need a break.
Probably not working the surf around your work schedule helps too.
Yes, that is true. The weird bitterness at times surrounding working in SEQ and surfing is something I that i never like. I've spent the past three days in the northern Rivers and I reckon that's me done till next Tuesday. I've had my fill, whereas before, it was me going hard for hours everyday without fail. I'll make concessions if it's proper pumping with great shape tho haha.
Wonder how long the optimism will last? I couldn’t think of anything worse than being away working 28 days straight.
All the best though, hope it works out for you.
Pretty slow out there but there were some beautiful waves when they came.
The groms were ripping, saw this one kid about 10 years old, goofy footer, lay over a full rail bottom turn on a clean right, full power off the top then full rail off the bottom again into a perfect snap under the lip for a clean barrel.
Perfect style, perfect poise.
Talent of the future.
Flying home on Sunday. Bad timing re Monday's swell, but can't complain. It's been bloody good.
There's a lesson in that IB, steer clear of the SC it's been atrocious, though Raglan's looked good the last few days.
You done good I.B.
Bloody lucky, I reckon.
And my wife is so stoked that she pretty much wants to move over here, haha!
I chanced a late surf after spending the second half of the day inspecting a second hand Subie on the Clarence.
It was one of those "go buy a lottery ticket" surfs where everything turned to gold.
You at 100%? Totally back to normal after 6 months?
Backhand feels totally normal, or better.
Forehand still feels a bit stiff.
How good!
Stoked to hear it!
I piked on the arvo surf. Surfed out, to tell you the truth.
Thank you, N NSW. Thank you everybody, old friends and friendly strangers, for 10 glorious days.
Great Point surf, great food, good attitudes all around.
We'll be back asap.
It’s a good part of the world, just don’t tell anyone or real estate prices could get out of control :)
We promise, Andy.
(Still cheaper and much better value than NZ)
Wow, that’s saying something
Horrifying.
cheaper than NZ ...double wow
Swell arrived just after dark here.
Damn.
You get a gauge on the size?
Was having some beers with mates on the Cudgen Surf Club balcony late yesterday arvo, and a couple of young lads on longboards were having a great time, just them in the water getting some small clean runners on Kingy point. It was getting very late, almost dark and one of the guys lost his board on a wave, and was swimming about 20m to get his board, when we see the water start swirling about 20m behind him and it starts moving towards him. Must have been a decent size from the way the water was moving. We start stressing a bit, but when he reaches his board it seems to go away. And his mate who is about 20m further up the point is paddling quickly down to him and then they both scramble in on some whitewater. Went down and had a chat with them after they came in - the guy who was further up the point saw a fin, which got him moving to get out of there. Then we told the guy who lost his board what was happening behind him when he was swimming and they were pretty spooked. Lucky boys.
Jeezus..so lucky.
Close shave. Good to hear they're alright.
How big did the point get today? FR, Andy?
ill go check it in a few hrs and let you know
Enjoy!
6-8ft.
Bit fat, few big drops.
Bit lumpy, bit shouldery, maybe 6 guys out.
Not missing too much I.B.
Thanks for the reports. Sorry it didn't get better.
Been looking at Le-Ba area realestate - for the hell of it - and thinking about buying a lotto ticket for the first time in my life :-)
Maybe give it a year and see how it pans out with regards to effect of interest rates etc.
The general wisdom is that this is a blue chip area and even if prices don’t keep increasing like they did, they won’t go backwards.
And it’s hard to imagine not being able to easily rent out a place here.
But then again, look at all the experts who were wrong about the impact of Covid on real estate :)
That's where the lotto ticket comes in. Fcuk off money :-)