Large storm surf slowly easing over the weekend with only a handful of options on the table
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri 13th May)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Large surf Sat with potential for E/SE winds in SEQLD, more E to E/NE in NENSW and only protected spots surfable
- Surf still large but easing Sun with lighter E'ly winds, possibly cleaner in SEQLD
- Surf easing through Mon, with fun leftover E swell and light winds for early next week
- Small S swell favouring NENSW Wed/Thurs
- Another E'ly La Nina pattern forming late next week into the weekend
Recap
Large, stormy E swell and strong onshore winds have been with us since the last f/cast. Size has generally been in the 5-6ft range, building through today as a surface low retrogrades back towards the Fraser Coast. Winds have been from the E to E/NE in SEQLD, more NE in NENSW. Not much to surf unless you were prepared to chance your arm at the innermost sections of the more protected Points.
This weekend (May 14-15)
Few tweaks to the weekend f/cast. The fetch of deep E to E/NE winds in the Coral and Northern Tasman Sea is contracting northwards around a surface low off the CQ/Fraser coast, and expected to fizzle out over the weekend. At present gales are retrograding towards the QLD, generating large swells.
That will see E/NE-NE swell peak overnight and through tomorrow across the region, before beginning an easing trend which continues for a few days.
We’re looking at very large surf tomorrow, likely in the 8-10ft range across SEQLD, grading smaller 6-8ft across Far Northern NSW and 6ft across the Mid North Coast. Most of the coastline will be a mess, but winds do look to shift E/SE through tomorrow across SEQLD as the remnant of the low approach. That will open up surfable options at the most protected Points, which will see smaller surf in the 4-6ft range.
Winds remain E to E/NE across the rest of the region south of the border, so keep expectations well pegged there.
Size settles through Sunday but there’ll be plenty of solid leftover energy from the East in the ocean. Expect surf in the 6-8ft range across SEQLD, easing through the day, with smaller 5-6ft surf south of Byron-Ballina. A lingering E/NE to NE flow is likely across most of the region. There is some chance for a remnant E/SE flow across SEQLD depending on where the low remnants end up which will open up surfable options at the Points. Stay tuned to local winds, and we’ll update in the comments.
Next week (May 16 onwards)
Much more settled week on offer next week. There’s a lot of strong frontal activity under Australia during next week, most of which gets shunted southwards before it enters the Tasman Sea, although there will be small amounts of refracted long period S swell making landfall, with all the usual caveats for those flukey swells, especially in SEQLD, where it is unlikely they will show.
With a high moving over WA/SA on Mon and light pressure gradients on offer we should see light winds and residual surf from the E on Mon. The edge of a cold front brings light S’ly winds which ease rapidly to light breezes. We’ll see some leftover 3-4ft surf from the E, backing down during the day, and hopefully some sunshine. Should be a good day to survey the state of the sandbanks after the current onslaught.
Surf bottoms out Tues/Wed in the 2ft range with light winds expected from the S to SE. There is a weak, angular trough expected to form off the Northern NSW coast which we’ll keep an eye on but at this stage it doesn’t look like much of a swell producer. It may add some small, weak SE windswell into the mix through Wed.
Traces of S swell will be in the mix during later Wed and into Thurs as a series of fronts pass through the Southern Ocean. That will see some small S swell on offer in NENSW, not much more than 2ft at S facing beaches, and not significant in SEQLD, where surf around 1-2ft will be on offer.
This last front is on track to generate a more substantial pulse of S swell through Fri, although a large high tracking in behind it sees winds quickly shift S to SSE in the wake of the front. Expect surf in the 3ft range at S facing beaches Fri, biggest in NENSW.
Into the medium term and another dominant high moving at low latitudes (S of Tas) sets up another E’ly pattern in the Tasman and Coral Sea through the end of next week and weekend of the 21/5. That will see another round of E to E/NE swell and an onshore flow. Typical of the La Niña Merry Go Round we are currently on with no end in sight.
Check back Mon for the latest and have a great weekend!
Comments
fkn over it
Victory at Sea SEQ........Agnes looking fun.
Looking fabulous this morning.
There’s options about.
Nuthin rideable here.
8ft+ of storm surf, straight onshore with brown stormwater all through it.
Might go throw some big hardbodies around on the high tide tonight.
It’s like living in a cloud at sea level at the moment, just a constant Scotch Mist.
Like being in Northern Europe in winter without the cold.
Man, it is an absolute quagmire here.
I was a toddler during the 73-76 triple Nina, remember well the 98-2000 triple but this Double Dip (potentially three-peat) La Niña has had by far the most profound and relentless wet signal I've ever seen.
That red soil must be nasty.
Yeah we won’t forget these couple of years in a hurry.
Once it gets completely waterlogged it's no fun to have around.
Tried 3 time this Autumn to plant out vegies.
Waterlogged soil took out everything.
A month until the Solstice, no point planting now.
Bananas, mint and lemongrass can hold soil together uphill. Slash it back for mulch later.?
Then there's the interior mould and damp.
Horrible year.
My bedroom smells like a Balinese basement.
GFS & ACCESS-G today showing more rain and swell up your way.
keep the gumboots handy....
Comes the muck...again:
Had tonnes of fun out there at lunch on the 10'4. I think the NE that kicked up has pushed the brown into Rainbow this arvo.
Rivers swollen and brown, again.
Reminds me of the time the husband and wife were watching the documentary about the African tribesmen who performed a monthly virility ritual which involved tying rocks to the end of their 24 inch cocks and dancing feverishly all night during the night of the full moon.
The husband, impressed by the dimensions of the African’s tools, suggested to his wife that he might try the ritual himself.
Next full moon he did the deed and swung a decent sized rock off the end of his old fella as he danced the night of the full moon away naked in his backyard.
He drank enthusiastically throughout the night and a little while before dawn he fell down exhausted. He woke to find his wife standing over him and staring at his member.
“How’d I go?” He asked her.
“Well, it half worked “ she replied.
Excitedly he said “So it’s now 12 inches long? “
“No, it’s black.”
And I see the models have even more La Nina style action lined up next week.
Yep. Looks like they’re going to do their little turn on the catwalk.
thank gawd for that cause i was was getting worried as it hasn't rained here for 2 hours or so