Stacks of swell ahead, great conditions early next week

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Fri 15th Apr)

Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Punchy E/SE swell for the next few days with fresh S/SW tending S/SE winds
  • Better E/SE swells Mon thru' Wed with generally light winds
  • Strong round of S'ly swell from about Thurs onwards (biggest in Northern NSW), probably windy for a period too

Recap

Trailing east swell from TC Fili came in a little better than expected on Thursday, pushing a solid 4ft south of the border and 3ft in SE Qld, with good waves along the points. We saw fresh southerlies develop through the day as a change pushed up the coast, and gusty conditions have hung around for today as a short range E/SE swell has built across the region. A southerly swell has also been in the water across Northern NSW though coming in a little under size expectations with sets in the 3-4ft range at south facing beaches. 

This weekend (Apr 16 - 17)

Looks like more of the same for the next few days, thanks to a persistent S/SE airstream. This will relegate the best waves to the sheltered points and southern ends.

The developing trough in the northern Tasman Sea is reaching maturity as we speak, which means we'll see a broad peak in size through Saturday, probably holding into Sunday but perhaps starting a slow downwards trend. 

Wave heights will be biggest across the Far Northern NSW coast with sets to 4-5ft, elsewhere expect slightly smaller surf on the Mid North Coast (3-4ft) and SE Qld open beaches (4ft), with slightly smaller surf again along the points. They'll be your best bet under these conditions though.

There'll also be some south swell in the water in Northern NSW early Saturday and late Sunday (from a brand new pulse) but it'll sit below the more dominant E/SE energy.

Next week (Apr 18 onwards)

The northern Tasman trough will push close to New Zealand from Saturday into Sunday and strengthen a small fetch of gale force easterly winds within our swell window (see below).

Wave heights should maintain the weekend's size into Monday, if anything down a smidge though still likely 3-5ft across Northern NSW, 3-4ft across SE Qld's open beaches (smaller on the points), though the Mid North Coast will benefit from the better weekend positioning of the fetch (so, size should increase a touch, to 3-5ft). 

A small easing will occur into Monday afternoon, Tuesday and Wednesday (maybe half to one foot or so), though a brief pulse of embedded bigger surf is possible Wednesday morning (from the developing gales later Sunday) - however it won't push much higher than the pre-existing surf. Either way, with light winds across the region as the weekend's coastal ridge weakens, there'll be a couple of great day of waves to pick and choose from. Only risk of a lingering SW tending S/SE flow will be north from Ballina on Monday, everywhere else should be light and variable.

Elsewhere, and more long period southerly energy will glance the coast early next week, though sourced from much less favourably aligned frontal systems in the Southern Ocean. This will cap surf size at an extremely inconsistent 2-3ft at south facing beaches on the Mid North Coast through later Monday and Tuesday.

Looking further ahead, and the Tasman trough will weaken temporarily around Tuesday, off the west coast of New Zealand's North Island, but model guidance suggests the broader pattern may re-establish a new E/NE fetch to the NE of the North Island around Wednesday, generating a short lived E/NE swell for the region around next weekend (size in the 2-3ft+ range).

However there is a much more dominant pattern shaping up for the longer term. 

An amplifying Long Wave Trough just to the west of Tasmanian latitudes early in the week will initially lie on the periphery of our swell window for a few days, but should slide more favourable east by Thursday, allowing strong fronts to race up the western Tasman Sea.

This is expected to generate a sustained period of large, and sometimes wind affected southerly swells from Thursday onwards - favouring Northern NSW with the most size - holding through the weekend and the first half of the following week.

Certainly no shortage of surf ahead though it looks like our long running easterly pattern may be about to take a break, and focus to the south for a while.

See you Monday!

Comments

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Saturday, 16 Apr 2022 at 7:01pm

was surfing greenmount this arvo, got swept down towards big groyne just after low tide. sets were pulsing, the sweep was strong, and there were a couple of chunky waves breaking in front of the groyne. saw a young 9yo boy near me crying. he had paddled out with his dad at snapper but got separated immediately. he was panicking and out of his depth and too scared to catch a wave in but also didnt want to paddle in and risk get caught inside. i went straight over to him and reassured him that i would stay with him until he got in. we were right in front of the lifeguards on the beach, and me and another surfer were waving at them to get the boat out to make sure he didnt get caught inside on the way in. no joy. i yelled out at a bunch of surfers a lot closer in to get the lifeguards attention. they all started waving their boards at the lifeguards right in front of where they were set up but still nothing. we could see 2 male lifeguards looking out to sea right in our direction. anyway i paddled the kid in between sets. when we got to the beach i went straight up to the lifeguards. 2 fat middle aged men staring straight out to sea but didnt even see us and a bunch of other lifeguards behind them in the tent set up. i told them what i thought of their spotting abilities but they were just a pair of gormless twits. nothing against lifeguards btw - ive got a lot of respect for most of them who have a very challenging job especially when their is a decent swell but these 2 were useless. i walked with the boy back towards snapper where he was supposed to meet his dad if they got separated. on the way i grabbed one of the female lifeguards from greenmount and they were happy to stay with him until he found his dad. poor kid was really shook. he thanked me and i was just grateful i was there when he needed someone. spoke to the female lifeguards after my surf and they said he reconnected with his dad. tbh the dad should not have let him paddle out in those conditions. wasnt big, but the sweep was strong and the kid clearly wasnt up to dealing with solid and sweepy 4ft sets at big groyne

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Saturday, 16 Apr 2022 at 7:52pm

It was good you got in before

Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard Sunday, 17 Apr 2022 at 10:47pm

I think Clubbies are trained to ignore surfers/anyone with a board attached to them, from numerous other experiences/interactions I've had. Bit of a different approach than North Shore lifeguards take. Good job you did but.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 16 Apr 2022 at 7:36pm

you cant take your eyes off them cause shit can happen very quickly.....the father needs a boot up the bum, hope he's learnt something

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Apr 2022 at 12:15pm


donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 18 Apr 2022 at 9:13am

Fck me the sand is completely fcked in Nth NSW. Severe beach erosion and big storm bar banks. Didn’t need this coming into pristine autumn conditions.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 18 Apr 2022 at 11:50am

Same here. Straight handers for days.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Monday, 18 Apr 2022 at 9:23am

yep same down here and if you can find somewhere its packed

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 18 Apr 2022 at 9:36am

Banks across Manly have been insane for a few months, but the XL SSE groundswell two weekend's ago killed them. There's still something to surf but quality is much lower than it has been. We've been spoilt.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Monday, 18 Apr 2022 at 10:21am

Wtf when will this swell go away. Been praying for a drop so I can get things done. Each day I wake up and its still pumping

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 18 Apr 2022 at 1:58pm

Some great little waves today, 3ft and clean as a whistle.
And west in the wind until lunchtime - yeeew!
Banks reminiscent of 2020, which ain’t a bad thing.