Multiple swell pulses incoming as Severe TC Dovi enters our swell window
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri 11th Feb)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Small and windy Fri, small waves on the SEQLD Points
- Pulse of E/NE groundswell from TC Dovi Sat, easing quickly through Sun
- Fresh S to SE winds all weekend, with short period SE swell Sat, improving in size and quality Sun, favouring Points
- Monday looks great with strong E/SE swell and light winds
- Easing swell Tues with light winds
- Last pulse of SE swell Wed, with light winds
- Small surf Thurs/Fri next week with light winds
Recap
Our active La Niña summer continues. Yesterday saw leftover swell punch above its weight slightly with surf in the 3-4ft range in NENSW only ease into the 3ft range during the day with light SE winds. Surf was slightly smaller in SEQLD. Today has seen a slight decrease in NENSW, offset by a more E’ly angle in SEQLD. Light winds early are now tending S/SE and freshening, reaching strong winds levels by this a’noon and evening.
This weekend (Feb 12 - 13)
The headline news is TC Dovi, which formed north-east of New Caledonia Wed a’noon and is moving SW at about 12 knots inside the Coral Sea. At 5am this morning TC Dovi was about 730 nautical miles E/NE of the Queensland border. That puts it in our swell window and although Dovi is currently Cat 3 it’s surf potential is limited by the compact fetch and expected increased speed of movement over the next 24 hrs. Essentially the compact fetch of hurricane force winds will “outrun” the area of swell production, limiting the amount of swell energy it can generate.
Concurrently, a long NW-SE angled high pressure ridge is being energised by the south-wards moving cyclone, forming an impressive fetch of SE winds through the central Tasman Sea. This SE fetch will be the main swell source for the region, with a smaller E/NE cyclone swell proper, overshadowed by this stronger swell.
Saturday will be dominated by strong S’ly winds, with only a brief window of lighter winds inshore before winds crank up in excess of 20 knots. Expect a slightly undersized start in the 2-3ft range before a building trend in both short period SE wind swell, reaching the 3-4ft range, and longer period E/NE swell which will see chunky though Lully 4-5ft sets. This will be the cyclone swell from Dovi and it should be easily noticeable by it’s extra period and direction.
It’s pretty much a Points only deal, unless you can tolerate strong side/onshore winds.
Wind will be the main factor Sunday as well, with fresh S/SE winds through the morning, slowly backing down during the a’noon as the high pressure ridge eases and TC Dovi undergoes extra-tropical transition and impacts the North Island.
Surf will change character Sun, as the pulse of E/NE groundswell from TC Dovi eases back in the mix and there prevailing SE to E/SE swell becomes the dominant swell train. This should see stronger surf in NENSW in the 4-6ft range, grading smaller 3-5ft in SEQLD. This will be a lower period source so expect less size getting into the more sheltered Points. A slight muscling up in longer period E/SE swell is expected in the a’noon, generated by the initial stages of extra-tropical transition of TC Dovi (more details below).
Next week (Feb 14 onwards)
Models now showing the remnants of the cyclone undergoing extra-tropical transition as it slides towards New Zealand with areas of severe SE gales developing on the south-western quadrant. These winds aren’t perfectly aligned for the region but there’s enough strength in the fetch for plenty of incoming energy. The tail end of the ridge also activates strongly through the lower Tasman over the weekend, adding to the incoming swell energy. In short, there’s still a lot of incoming swell trains being generated for early next week.
Monday still looks good, especially for the Points. A light morning S to SW flow is becoming more likely and E/SE swell in the 4-6ft range should see a wide swathe of pumping surf across the regional Points. Some bigger 6ft+ sets are more likely in NENSW, with smaller 3-5ft surf more probable in SEQLD. Through the day those winds will tend SE, staying light/mod, and a slight easing trend will set in.
That easing trend becomes more established Tues, with the general SE flow becoming lighter as the high pressure in the Tasman drifts more NE, relaxing pressure gradients across the region in a way that has been rare this summer. That gives good odds for a morning land breeze, with leftover 3-4ft surf, easing through the day. It should be the first day beach breaks come back online across the region, hopefully with some favourable sandbanks on offer after the swell bombardment of the last few weeks.
A last pulse of E/SE swell is expected Wed, generated by gales out of Cook Strait. This fetch now looks a lot more constrained in time and space compared to Wednesdays notes, so we’re only looking at a few 3ft+ sets through Wed, with another day of light winds expected. Another good day for the beachies is on offer if sandbanks co-operate.
Longer term and it looks like one more day of small, clean leftovers Thurs before a S’ly change potentially late Fri or early Sat with some small S’ly swell expected for Fri and next weekend. No doubt we will see some revisions on that as next week rolls on.
Check back Mon for the latest updates.
Plenty to occupy the short term so enjoy that and have a great weekend!
Comments
Impressive menu!!!
I just hope my arms can handle what's ahead...
You'll be right Troppo, one arm in front of the other.
How’re you going, hanging in there?
Here we go. Shoulders have only just recovered.
Just had a little warm up paddle at snapper/greeny and they are feeling good to go.
Thanks for the report Freeride. Always a great read and learn a lot
Is that a standard speed for a cyclone to travel at (12 knots). Dunno what I had ever imagined, but not that.
No real standard speed NB, they vary but that is in the normative range.
Spider senses tingling
So much time in the water the last seven days, but the wave count is low...ferocious sweeps and level 10 agro crowds. Problem with all this wind is it brings all and sundry to the same few places. Not complaining though, it could be NE....
feels like the Short range wind swell has come in bigger than expected this afternoon.
yeah, the low point of the swell cycle over the last 24 hrs maintained more energy than expected for sure, and so building off a higher base.
And the quality sand setups help sculpt even small pulses into rideable peelers.
Sunshine coast forecaster lost his mind this morning, 'massive' and 'huge'. Noosa is 2ft.... Where is that boogie fever :)
Sssssh...... Secret spot.
Dovi really put the skates on last night, accelerating through the swell window at 21 knots.
I think the second half of this event might get truncated a bit.
Any NE swell showing up there?
yep
21 knots!
Good lord.
No, bad lord.....
Slow it down down Huey....
You guys enjoy! I've been snowed under issuing NZ warnings and watches for Dovi. Third 'Very Significant' system in two weeks.
I need a holiday...
5.11am dbah replay.
Looks like some swell was hitting then.
Snapper Replay is amazing this morning, guys getting really deep barrels. The bank is looking amazing, crowds too!
Agree with surfalot.
Same experience for me
Strong 4-5ft sets around lunch, manageable sweep, coupla bigger bombs just shy of 6ft. Lotta water moving relative to the morning period data at the buoy.
Was about that just on dark down here.
Couple of ok ones but stormy and lumpy as a general rule.
This morning was as good as it gets at Greeny for this size. Perfect long barrels but so sweepy. This arvo looks to have dropped by half, what do the buoys say??
Think the direction quickly went SE and cooly lost the size because of that.
Swell felt SE here this arvo south of Byron.
Sounds about right LD. That sweep didn’t feel like there was much E/NE energy
Sunny Coast dropped by half too during the day.
I was expecting it to double but it went the other way.
Morning on Maroochy stretch was solid and super consistent, hard to get out the back due to constant sets.
Made me excited for the arvo high tide session, but it was feeble.
Hopefully the morning brings some energy.
Agreed, yesty for the dawny was solid and relentless, like 3 to four seconds apart relentless. Crowd was ridic too. Felt like I was surfing down coolie way somewhere. Back on the GC and it's been shithouse. Should have stayed at mums for the weekend. Hope you got some today Troppo, looked alright again early
Short range swell dropped for sure, was some longer east swell lines every 20 minutes or so. 4ft give or take
I wish we had surf where I live......,.
Scored at an empty point which woke up for 90mins then went back to sleep at sunset. Just got in for the magic window of tide and swell. Will be sleeping well tonight.
Still some chunky 6ft sets in the water here.
Fair bit of water moving around with the morning high tide.
Watched Rasta try and make sense of it and he struggled which indicates a fairly high degree of difficulty for the average Joe.
Surfed a local point break which was GR8 @ 4ft solid swell with the odd bigger one this morning (protected inside a huge bay). Clean conditions & not so busy! looks like TC Dovi has run over N.Z. already though so a downgrade for the nxt. round of swell off it looks likely! These TC's are unpredictable!
Incredible waves in the Nelson area Upper South island today which hardly gets much swell normally. The upper north island has been hammered by wind today
I reckon a Sting Jet tore through Rags just before midday. Wind went nuts all of a sudden. 25 power outages in Waikato due to fallen trees.
Yep but got nice tonight ay? Are you living in rags now IB?
Can't imagine there not being some form of land breeze tomorrow early, BOM are predicting light E all night in my zone. Pretty much as good as it gets here this morning, hoping for a repeat dose tomoz.
I reckon light offshore tomorrow morning if anything.
Really muscled up here this arvo. lots of water moving around.
Nice Freeride, what direction?
Between E/SE and SE.
AndyM who posts here had a crack at it.
I think Saturday morning was the pick, on the gold coast. Didn't even show up in the buoys but was perfect.
Yep. Saturday from 10am-1pm was as good as it gets at a Goldie point.
Some solid sets in the 6ft range, shredders were getting the odd pit but the lump and the sweep wasn’t making it easy.
Paddle fitness and a bigger board were pre-requisites.
And those rocks are still as slippery as ice after that rain and foam :)
Saw some impressive barrels ridden at Tea Tree today at about 11 or so.
SC fair bit smaller and mushier this morning.
Mooloolaba bouy shows negligible change in size or direction, swell period up a bit.
Bris bouy offline.
Tweed offshore reflects mooloolaba except showing more South.
Anyone got time to educate me?
The Mooloolaba buoy doesn't show the true direction, once the swell has to refract around C. Morton, Sunshine Coast spots loose a lot of energy.
The Mooloolaba buoy in general is a very unreliable indicator of swell conditions in my opinion, often shows more energy than what there actually is
6ft closeout sets on the Tweed this morning.
Very rare 4ft + sets on the Goldy. 20 minute wait in between.
Not really coming through now though
Solid in Cooly early - definitely two swells running though with lots of wobble and double ups.