Small mixed bag this weekend with solid S swell next week then all eyes to the East

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon 16 Aug)

SE Qld Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Small amounts of short period, peaky E’ly tradewind swell persisting at low levels over the weekend with generally light winds
  • Small S swell pulse Sun for the Gold Coast
  • Stronger S swell late Tues for the Gold Coast, arriving Wed Sunshine Coast with S/SE winds likely
  • Tracking possible E’ly groundswell event from low near North Island next weekend, stay tune

Northern NSW Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Small mixed bag Sat with light SE winds developing
  • Small S swell pulse Sun/ Mon with light AM winds
  • Initial S swell pulse Tues, stronger Wed, easing slowly through Thurs/Fri
  • Tracking possible E’ly groundswell event from low near North Island next weekend, stay tuned

 

Recap

Our unseasonal tradewind swell event has supplied very fun to surfable levels of peaky surf, topping out around the 3ft mark on the Sunshine Coast Thurs and extending further south today to supply the Gold Coast and NENSW with some clean lines in the 2-3ft range. Surf graded smaller further south with not much on offer south of Yamba. Nothing to write home about but a nice late winter treat. 

This weekend (Aug 14-15)

Mixed bag across the f/cast region this weekend. SEQLD will see slight levels of leftover tradewind swell easing right back, from persistent strong breezes in the New Cal to Fraser Coast swell window.  With light and variable winds each morning it’ll be worth a hunt around open beaches for a clean peak but don’t expect anything over 2ft. Likely 1-2ft by Sun. 

Small levels of flukey S swell will be in the water this weekend, mostly likely showing only at select NENSW S swell magnets. A front that passed into the Tasman yesterday has provided 2-3ft surf at Hunter coast spots today and this is likely to see some 2ft surf across NENSW magnets tomorrow, clean with light/variable breezes through most of the day. 

The deep low currently passing to the south of Tasmania is a massive system with ASCAT (satellite windspeed) passes showing almost the entire area between Tasmania and 55S covered in gales to severe gales. Despite the very heavy W’ly bias in the winds the sheer width of the fetch is expected to see some stray longer period S swell impact through Sunday and into Mon. 

Sunday has a mix of flukey, refracted S swell trains in the water, from the low mentioned above, again only likely to show south of the border and Cape Byron. Easing leftovers Sun morning are likely to be overlapped by longer period swell trains in the a’noon, but keep expectations in check. We’re still talking 2ft at swell magnets with the odd 3ft set. Anywhere with deep water adjacent or rebounding will be worth a look, although N’ly winds on Sun a’noon might mean surfable spots are thin on the ground. All in all a few small waves are on offer.

Next week (Aug16 onwards)

Coming hot on the heels of Fri/Sat’s large but zonal low another complex polar low fires up as it enters Tasmanian longitudes on Sun. This is another impressively large and complex system, with a double headed low centre forming in the deep southern ocean around 60S and a more proximate cold front fetch expected to push NE to be adjacent to Tasmania through Monday morning. The deeper southern fetch tied to the polar low then fires up and aggressively tracks almost due north towards Tasmania with gales and severe gales extending up to almost Tasmanian latitudes later Mon. The system then weakens and transits the Tasman through Tuesday and into Wed. The strength and duration of these fetches will see several strong pulse of S swell through next week. There will be some winds to work around, details below.

First cab off the rank is expected to propagate up the coast through Tuesday, likely a bit undersized and ratty with shorter period S swell from the more proximate cold front past Tasmania. Expect 3ft surf to build at S facing beaches, showing through the morning on the MNC, lunchtime Ballina and QLD border mid a’noon. Not much size away from S facing beaches and S swell magnets on the Gold Coast are likely to hit the  2ft mark by close of play. Sunshine Coast is unlikely to see any surf from this first pulse. Winds will be a problem with new high pressure ridge building in behind the front bringing S to SE winds through the a’noon.

Wednesday looks a better bet. Longer period swell trains from the sling shot of the deep Southern Ocean fetch should see some real punch and line to the swell with solid 4-5ft surf on offer at S facing beaches, grading smaller away from S facing beaches. A good morning window of offshore land breezes is likely with better winds in the south of the f/cast region closer to the centre of the high and lingering S to SE winds in QLD, stronger on the Sunshine Coast. 

With the slower movement of the remains of the low and front through the Tasman there’ll be plenty of strong leftover energy from the S on Thursday. 3-4ft surf at S facing beaches is likely to persist through the day, with a slow easing in size and consistency. The ridge along the QLD coast weakens with better chance of a morning land breeze, almost a definite in NENSW. 

By Friday we’ll be in mop up mode but enough residual energy from a super-charged Tasman sea is expected to provide 2-3ft surf, likely dropping back into the 2ft range during the day. 

Tradewinds in the Coral Sea, while a bit weaker than this weeks round, are a chance of providing some small amounts of peaky, E’ly energy from Fri next week, but we’ll come back to that in Mondays notes and see how it is shaping up. 

Longer Term and a much weaker and more compact low passes well to the south of Tasmania Thurs/Fri next week suggesting a marginal S swell for the following weekend. 

Of more interest models are now firming on a trend of a sub-tropical low forming in an area of instability in the South Pacific SW of Fiji which is expected to consolidate near the North Island and become cradled by a supporting high pressure ridge next weekend (Aug21/22). While current model runs look jaw droppingly juicy it's a long way off so we’ll just flag it now as a possible source of potentially solid E’ly groundswell middle of the week beginning Aug23. Stay tuned for a fresh update Mon.

Comments

Plasticspastic's picture
Plasticspastic's picture
Plasticspastic Friday, 13 Aug 2021 at 5:49pm

FR.. don’t be fooled by those far out 2 weeks away, east swell predictions... they have haunted me since subscribing… caused more stress and late night panics about what’s to come than any other forecast!! They always seem to disappear at about the 5-7 day mark….

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Friday, 13 Aug 2021 at 7:22pm

Don't take peoples hope away plastic spastic.
I'm hanging onto the dream that I'll be able to eventually surf a wave bigger than 2-3ft which is all we have had for many weeks now.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Friday, 13 Aug 2021 at 7:52pm

It's been pretty cool watching the Mexican pro go down over the last few days. But it's also torture to watch those perfect waves peel down the point and then have to go surf 2ft peaky crowded shit on the GC. On the bright side, I've discovered black hops and at at 8.7% it's able to soften the blow quite quickly!
I think I need a plan to move to Mexico

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 14 Aug 2021 at 6:50am

Double Hornet, very nice.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Saturday, 14 Aug 2021 at 1:19pm

Check the Greeny replay at 555 this morning. Perfect little NE swell runners - looks to be gone now or swallowed by the tide

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 14 Aug 2021 at 2:21pm

EC on board with that sub-tropical low/pacific high cradle late next week Fingers crossed.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 14 Aug 2021 at 2:33pm

Fun quick surf on the top of the tide, peaky 2ft sets not affected much by the light onshore.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 14 Aug 2021 at 2:41pm

How’s the sand down your way Ben?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 14 Aug 2021 at 3:06pm

Patchy. Some stretches are fun on the right tide (big ranges at the moment) and there's a few knuckles of sand focusing the small weak swells and throwing up tasty lil' peaks. But other stretches are unsurfable.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 15 Aug 2021 at 2:46pm

Impressive lines out of the south for my quick lunchtime session, just as the slack morning winds started to puff from the north. Sets on the Tweed were a robust 3ft, with some minor trade swell in the mix. 'Twas overpowering the bank that was yesterday enjoying the low period energy.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 15 Aug 2021 at 3:07pm

been some weird and wild little mixed bag sessions this weekend.

yesterday was mostly trade swell, then some little S bits mixed in.
Tide killed it, though some fun babyfood for kids on the high.

really showed late yesterday with some long lines from the S from 3-6pm.

plenty of 3ft surf this morning, then tide has killed it again.

pretty impressive for such zonal fetches.

Anyone else get a real thick sea fog this morning?

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Sunday, 15 Aug 2021 at 6:17pm

Yep was foggy in Kingscliff

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 15 Aug 2021 at 3:14pm

hey freeride, im on the gc, just got back from working away, thinking of an early at a swell magnet tomorrow morning but dont want to get burnt cos im sleep deprived already. the swell forecast on this site shows east trade swell dropping even further from today, but another site shows it increasing slightly. im not after much, but even 2ft would be welcome after the week i had. i looked at the cams for one swell magnet today and it was too small for me. if it drops further, i wont bother. your expert opinion please?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 15 Aug 2021 at 3:21pm

Marginal call Scrotina.
pretty confident you'd get a 2ft''er, especially if the spot can hoover up any long lined S swell in the water.
trade swell is small and weak now, but not non existent.

If you are keen, I'd go.
Wind forecast looks good, low tide in the morning is an issue.
Keep your expectations low.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 15 Aug 2021 at 6:05pm

thanks for the reply. low tide will benefit where i have in mind, but sadly, long period south swells dont. i was hoping the trade swell might continue

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 15 Aug 2021 at 10:32pm

EC still in the game for that sub tropical system north of NZ in a weeks time. GFS couldn’t be any further off the game (although still some good swell with a very non-winter-esque planted elongated high pressure system generating some beefed up trade wind swell).

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 16 Aug 2021 at 9:02am

RIP Winter, not even ekka winds this year, bloody Nly instead. Kids won't believe we used to get clean, offshore afternoon surfs in Winter.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 16 Aug 2021 at 9:23am

Lots of spring signs out there huh? This La Nina business still due to kick in for Spring?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 16 Aug 2021 at 9:41am

Slow 2ft+ sets on the Tweed this morning, nice and clean but the energy seems dialled down a few notches from yesterday. Very inconsistent too.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 16 Aug 2021 at 9:54am

EC slowly but surely succumbing to the GFS forecast for that sub tropical low. :(

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Monday, 16 Aug 2021 at 11:24am

Fun 2-hour session on the Sunny. Light wnw, crystal clear water w/ punchy 2fters. Surfed ~20km from my local, on the way to work. Scored, to my surprise.

Redmond Clement's picture
Redmond Clement's picture
Redmond Clement Monday, 16 Aug 2021 at 12:07pm

Yes me too, some little sizzling ones great fun.