Flukey swells to continue
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 16th July)
SE Qld Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Tiny leftovers this weekend with fresh offshore winds Sat, easing Sun
- Small S'ly swell Mon, only for south swell magnets
- Bigger S'ly swell Thurs, easing Fri, fun on the outer points
Northern NSW Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Tiny leftovers Sat with gusty offshore winds
- Building S'ly swell Sun with winds easing, size peaking late a'noon (may be a lag in the Far North)
- Broad plateau of moderate S'ly swell Mon with light winds, size easing Tues
- Large, windy S'ly swell building late Wed (MNC), peaking Thurs, easing Fri as winds become light
Recap
Easing E’ly swells maintained 3ft sets on Thursday, easing a little into the afternoon and even holding 2ft early this morning (seemingly from the E/NE?) before fading by lunchtime. Early light winds picked up from the N/NW throughout Thursday (parts of the MNC even saw arvo NE breezes), though today is where we’ve seen stronger winds - along with some impressive cloud formations - as freshening NW breezes swung W’ly in the early afternoon. We’ve also seen building N’ly swells throughout the day across exposed north facing beaches with size in the 2-3ft range throughout SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with smaller surf south from Ballina. A small south swell is also glancing the Mid North Coast this afternoon, having provided occasional 2ft+ sets to south swell magnets in Southern NSW this morning.
This weekend (July 17 - 18)
The source of the current N’ly windswell is moving our of our swell window as the westerly change pushes across the coast, so I’m expecting wave heights to ease overnight. With the fetch active up until late this afternoon (via model data) there’s always the chance for a few stray morning sets at reliable north facing swell magnets on the southern Gold and Tweed Coasts but I’d be surprised if it were much more than a slow 1ft+.
As such, with no other activity in any of our swell windows for the next 24-36 hours, I think we'll see tiny surf throughout SE Qld for the entire weekend. Conditions will be clean with fresh W/NW winds tending W’ly Saturday, easing rapidly into Sunday.
South of the border is a different story though.
A vigorous frontal passage across south-eastern Australia is riding very north in latitude, driving westerly gales across NSW, however it’s disconnected from polar regions within our swell window. This means there’s no active source of south swell right now.
And thus, Saturday will remain near-flat with just tiny remnants of today’s energy at the swell magnets. If we’re lucky, south swell magnets south of Byron may pick up faint lines from the south, leftover from today’s small south swell. But it won’t amount to much more than the odd 1.5ft set. It’ll be blustery with fresh W/NW winds, gusty at times on the Mid North Coast.
Sunday however has a new south swell on the way.
Late on Saturday, the axis of the Long Wave Trough (driving these fronts) will cross into the Tasman Sea, and we’ll see W/SW tending SW gales exiting eastern Bass Strait. We only need the fetch to be slightly south of west to generate acute south swell for Northern NSW, so Sunday’s looking at an upwards trend all day, starting small but pushing 3-5ft at south facing beaches by late in the day.
The Mid North Coast often does a little better than everywhere else in Northern NSW so expect the upper end of this size range here, smaller further north. Also, there may be a lag in the Far North on this swell so don’t expect much upwards movement until later on (Monday will see a broader peak across all coasts).
And of course, these flukey south swells only favour south swell magnets so expect much smaller surf at any beach not open to the south - including almost all of south-east Queensland.
The good news is that Sunday should be generally clean across most coasts with rapidly easing W/SW winds.
Next week (July 19 onwards)
Sunday’s frontal activity will remain busy overnight, so we can expect a continuation of south swell into Monday morning throughout Northern NSW. In fact, a second region of swell generation just east of Tasmania on Sunday should create some additional energy for Monday, though the mix of swells will probably just reach a comparable size to late Sunday (though, the Far North will probably see a peak Mon instead of Sun).
Expect 3-5ft sets at south facing beaches south of Byron, much smaller at beaches not open to the south, and clean conditions with light offshore winds.
Across SE Qld, most beaches will dip out (i.e. 1ft or less) but exposed northern ends and south swell magnets - mainly on the Gold Coast - may pick up stray 2-3ft sets. I would be very wary of setting any level of expectation for this though… it’s a super flukey source and is more likely to disappoint than stoke.
Wave heights will slowly easing into Tuesday and Wednesday, with winds remaining offshore. They’ll strengthen again into Wednesday as another powerful front crosses the south-east corner of the country.
This front is now likely to form a small low off the Southern NSW coast by early Wednesday, and an associated tight pressure gradient is expected to result in gale to storm force S’ly winds in close proximity to the coast. This has ramped up size expectations for late Wednesday and Thursday though it’ll also result in much windier conditions that’ll only favour sheltered points and protected southern corners.
Current thinking is that most regions will see small leftovers on Wednesday morning but the late afternoon should see a rapid increase across the Mid North Coast, pushing into the Far North overnight and Thursday, where south facing beaches could pick up wind affected 6-8ft sets. However this is dependent on just how strong the winds become, how well aligned they are within our swell window, and how long they hang around for. I’ll refine the outlook on Monday.
This would be a swell event only suitable for sheltered points and southern ends - which will be much smaller - however the SE Qld region may also suffer from the direction being a little too south, and the source being a little too local.
Still, for now let’s peg size around the 2-3ft+ mark across the outer Gold Coast points (slightly smaller on the Sunshine Coast) but bigger and wind affected at exposed northern ends.
Wave heights will then trend steadily down through Friday and Saturday as winds ease and conditions quickly improve.
Just quickly - there’s an interesting blocking high sitting way out near Tahiti in the model runs for next week, which may provide some small long range E’ly swell for next weekend. Let’s take a closer look on Monday.
Otherwise, there’s nothing of significance in the long term forecast standing out right now.
Have a great weekend, see you Monday!
Comments
Effort for a Friday mate, calm down. Great report.
West swell kicking in
Magic conditions this arvo. Just a shame there wasn’t a touch more swell. Very inconsistent 2ft sets from the south with some smaller 1-2ft NE windswell in the mix.
Yeah saw the same thing Don, wasn't much around in the AM at all, but the arvo shows there was a lil' pulse on the Tweed buoy (that was the flukey south swell from the low south of Tasmania Tues/Wed). Was down the beach with the kids, the small NE energy was peaking up the S'ly lines into little A-frames. How were the conditions too! Stunning.
Winter lake Pacific really is beautiful... for a about a week. Hopefully moves some sand back in at least.
Actually had fun little 2 foot A frames on a Clarence back beach. 3 guys out and magic conditions, surprisingly good.
nice little treat this morning.
a pod of at least 50 dolphins came surfing in on a set wave and my wife got the wave of her life surfing with them.
it looked surreal.
Funny you should say that. I saw the largest pod of dolphins I’ve yet seen around here. One of the largest pods I’ve seen anywhere. Maybe 50 or so? All lolling in the lazy swell in a tight pack. Maybe it’s the time of year that dolphins get together for a knees up something-or-other?
Decent sized pod hanging at the local back beach here this morning as well. Didn’t look like they were in a rush to get anywhere.
Unreal. Sometimes it's the little treats that make the memories
Quite under whelming here this morning. I think it was smaller than yesterday arvo. Onshore winds now too.
Anyone catch any of that forecast south swell late? Didn’t see too much at magnets here.
Solid high side of 4ft at one spot that has a tendency to amplify these swells.
Nowhere else getting it though.
Long 3ft lines coming through late arvo where I was on the Tweed. Bit straight so not that great.
Yep the arvo session was double overhead on the take off. Sick clean left wedges. yeeeew!!
Which coast mate? Still in the Clarence?
He must be talking about another country...
Bingo. Only a handful in the water too
Thanks for early report of 2-3ft GC. Got me out of bed so early and down to the beach only to find 1ft waves at S swell magnets!
One foot, eh?
Here's the random ten-minute snapshot from D'bah, looks shoulder to head high.
I'll see if I can get a better image.
Here ya go, easy 2-3ft sets at D'Bah. Plenty of action at the Bar too.
Sorry can't use dbah cam! Haha
Tweed Coast is not GC.
And besides that, the updated surf report came back as 0.5ft-1ft
Eish
Couple more for ya... looking fun. Dunno where your south facing beach is, but you may need to consult a map.
Odd overhead set at D'Bah now.
Sorry can't use dbah cam!
Tweed Coast is not GC.
And besides that, the updated surf report came back as 0.5ft-1ft
Eish
The defense rests.
In my favour surely!
The jury returned a sealed verdict of not guilty for the Defendant, after less than 30 minutes of deliberations.
That bank next to the wall looks fun
I was out and about this morning between the QLD border and Ballina.
I saw everything from close to dead flat to really nice 3-4ft waves.
This morning's pulse seems to have backed right off in the last 30 mins.. Tweed buoy data showing the day's event nicely though.
Can you make the waves come back now please?
still lines here this arvo, but the N'ly smashed it.
I knew that big pods of dolphins didn’t mean that there would be no sharks but I still liked the idea…. until one day a mate was surfing at a local beach and watched a dolphin in a large pod get smashed by what was presumably a White about 20m from him and then devoured with blood and bubbles everywhere.
I’m starting to equate the presence of dolphins and seals with increased likelihood of white attacks on humans. Probably the loosest theory of all time.
North coast NSW, South WA, South Oz = More dolphins and seals.
Vicco, Sydney , and South NSW, QLD= Less dolphins and seals.
Give or take!
Please correct me if I’m wrong about the presence of dolphins and seals. Or any other glaringly obvious hole in the theory.
Phillip Island, Vic and surrounds - full of seals, no attacks on humans (very rarely anyway).
Yeah see seals regularly here. Seal Rocks is not far away at all.