Brief pulse from the south; northerly flow from mid-week onwards

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 31st August)

Best Days: No great days overall. Best option is probably Wed AM for a small peaky combo at open beaches with a brief window of light winds. 

Recap: A strong south swell pushed up the coast on Saturday though it delivered a wide range in wave heights. Surf size reached 4-6ft south of Byron, though wave heights were much smaller to the north peaking around 4ft across the Tweed Coast and 2-3ft across the Gold Coast’s south swell magnets (smaller again at the outer points). The Sunny Coast was a little smaller again. Moderate to fresh S’ly winds in the north favoured protected spots, though winds were lighter on the Mid North Coast. Wave heights eased slowly through Sunday and early light winds preceded an afternoon sea breeze. Today has seen a small flush of new S’ly swell across Northern NSW though no bigger than 2ft+ at south swell magnets, and much smaller across SE Qld with a minor short range E/SE swell in the mix.  

Early Monday peaks at D'Bah

Small mix of peaky swells on the Sunny Coast this AM

This week (Sep 3 - 6)

A cold front pushed across Southern NSW today, and a decent south swell is trailing behind. This swell is expected to reach Northern NSW throughout Tuesday, building across the Mid North Coast during the morning and peaking the afternoon. This swell will arrive a little later in Far Northern NSW so expect a delay on the upwards trend in the morning. SE Qld won’t enjoy the swell direction very much at all so I’m not expecting a great deal of action north of the border. 

The main issue on Tuesday is that winds will tend fresh S/SE through the morning, in response to a small trough pushing along the coastal margin, strengthened by a ridge to the south. These winds won’t favour exposed beaches, however they’ll be the only ones picking up any appreciable size - reaching 3-4ft at south facing beaches south of Byron, and 2ft+ across the Gold Coast's south facing beaches and exposed northern ends (arriving late in the day, much smaller for the most part). Most GC beaches and much of the SC will be smaller again.

Locations north from the Gold Coast should see a small window of light morning winds before the change hits (it's expected to cross the border a few hours before sunrise) and the Mid North Coast should see a rapid easing through the day, so lumpy though improving conditions are likely south of Yamba throughout the day, as the swell peaks. But on the whole it looks pretty ordinary, especially in SE Qld. 

Wednesday morning should see small peaky waves across SE Qld beaches, comprising easing energy from the south plus some short range energy from a brief E’ly fetch developing offshore, but I don’t think it’ll amount to much more than a slow 2ft at exposed beaches. Early light winds will preceded freshening N/NE breezes from lunchtime onwards. 

South from Byron, south facing beaches should see early 2-3ft sets on Wednesday but it’ll become smaller during the day. Winds will freshen from the north and become gusty into the afternoon, though they’ll be light for the first few hours of the day. 

Advancing fronts through the Bight will maintain a fresh northerly synoptic flow through Thursday and Friday, strongest on the Mid North Coast and a little lighter in SE Qld, but overall quite detrimental to surf prospects. 

A combination of persistent mid-range S/SE swells (from poorly aligned though strong fronts passing well south of the Tasman Sea, plus a brief stalling of today's front near NZ tomorrow), E’ly swell (from a building ridge in the lower Coral Sea) and local N/NE windswell will maintain peaky 2ft+ sets across most open beaches in Northern NSW through this time frame, fractionally smaller in SE Qld. However, only sheltered northern corners south from Byron will have anything remotely surfable, everywhere else will be largely blown out.

This weekend (Sep 7 - 8)

The weekend outlook is a bit tricky right now. 

SE Qld should see some small persistent E’ly swell both days but the northerly risk is too high to currently get excited about. Open beaches are looking at about 2ft+ or so, there’s a chance Sunday will see lighter winds but for now I’d keep your expectations in check.

Northern NSW is likely to be quite northerly-wind affected on Saturday but the models are divergent regarding the developing atmospheric setup; the European solution is suggesting troughiness over the western Tasman Sea on Friday may evolve into a small closed low on Saturday, generating a short range SE swell across Northern NSW on Sunday. It’s a low confidence event right now (and would be accompanied with generally poor winds) but in the absence of any other swells, it’s worth keeping a close eye on.

Otherwise, residual energy will probably maintain slow 2ft waves at exposed beaches both days. That’s certainly not worth getting too excited about. 

Next week (Sep 9 onwards)

Nothing significant standing out in the long term charts right now. However, in addition to the usual mid-latitude frontal cycle there’s also a suggestion that a broader easterly fetch may develop south of Fiji this weekend, which may set up some slow developments in our eastern swell window. Something to see a watch on too.

See you Wednesday!

Comments

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 1 Sep 2020 at 3:35pm

Just wondering, any plans on making the Palmy Reef cam public or is it tied up with that study?

Chongystyle's picture
Chongystyle's picture
Chongystyle Tuesday, 1 Sep 2020 at 5:16pm

Yeah that's just what we need, another Cam in the half a km stretch from the alley to palmy. No offence sprout, but the existing 4 cams in that small area is a massive overkill. I can't see the need for it, or imagine it would be tolerated anywhere else.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 6:37am

In my perfect world there'd be no cams, no forecasts, no mobile phones to tell people where the good banks are, just charts and checking and word of mouth. The good old days I believe they're called haha. Alas...
That cam is already there I'm just interested if it will become public or not.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Tuesday, 1 Sep 2020 at 6:40pm

On the subject of cams, anyone know why there is one at TOS?

bruzzz's picture
bruzzz's picture
bruzzz Tuesday, 1 Sep 2020 at 8:39pm

Council coastal imaging project

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 8:27am

I don't mind this pattern.

bit of a break, enough rain to get the flatties on the chew and some prospect for an active trade flow south and west of Grand Terre.

thats the critical area of the SPCZ as far as we are concerned for surf and rainfall.

DudeSweetDudeSweet's picture
DudeSweetDudeSweet's picture
DudeSweetDudeSweet Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 8:26am

Northerly is pumping. Got lots on so it’s not a bad thing really.

You reckon the flatties like a burst of fresh ? Are you chasing them in the rivers ?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 8:28am

hell yeah.

I didn't get a single fish during spring last year.....thats because they were all up at fucking Lismore.

already got heaps through August on the rare northerly days.

got three in three casts the other day at one of my honey holes.

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 11:21am

What you chucking Steve, placcy or hardbodies? Been plenty around my way through winter, but mostly in the sub 50 cm range, which is ok as they are the best eating size. Nice to get a few Crocs in the mix though, fun on light gear!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 11:27am

I'm throwing placcies and I downsized because I don't want the big females.

I want the 40-70cm size for eating.

upsized the jig head and went weedless and fishing more hard structure .......where bait fishos fear to tread.

they love sitting in amongst rocky bottom, especially at the base of rock walls.

Biggest flatty I ever caught was on a 5 dollar Simpsons rod and reel I bought for my son at KMart. I had to back crank the reel for drag and get old mate in a tinny to net it for me.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 11:30am

Got most of that but this must be what it's like for non-surfers hearing us talk.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 11:38am

Fishing discussion = bad waves ahead.

In-depth fishing discussion = very bad waves ahead.

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Thursday, 3 Sep 2020 at 6:37am

Hard to beat a 3" paddle tail for ruthless efficiency. They love broken ground, I've seen them stacked up on top of each other at the base of rock walls! I've just been targetting the weed edges, where there is a bit of current flow, hard to miss out really!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 11:37am

what do you think about the trade flows forecast in the SPCZ....

I think it's not so much the trade flows in the Nino zones that are vital for us but the teleconnection to the SW Pacific.

what do you reckon Craig?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 12:02pm

That and the stalling/weakening MJO is good for feeding the possible La Nina as the MJO won't disrupt the easterly trades which are continuing to upwell cooler water.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 12:01pm
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 12:29pm

I remember that day.

"Gone daddy gone.

6 months of insane banks washed out overnight.

8ft of burgery, pushy S swell if you can paddle."

:D

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Thursday, 3 Sep 2020 at 7:58am

Watched that clip. Think Mick seemed to like the idea of that board rather than its application. Only liked it on the clean, ruler edge inside section barrels.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 3 Sep 2020 at 8:44am

Yeah didn't seem like he'll ever ride it again haha.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 3 Sep 2020 at 8:50am

sponnoed advertorial for FCS so job done.

he still rode the board beautifully though.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 3 Sep 2020 at 9:47am

Tough job getting a brand new board to surf perfect waves for an ad.