Small windy weekend, then a pulse from the south

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 21st August)

Best Days: Sat: maybe some small leftover S'ly swell early in Nthn NSW. Tiny otherwise. Don't hold yr breath. Sun: chance for a flukey S'ly swell, prob a'noon if at all (don't hold yr breath). Mon/Tues: solid S'ly swell in Northern NSW, smaller in SE Qld, good conditions. Easing Wed.

Recap: Inconsistent 1-2ft E’ly swells padded out SE Qld beaches on Thursday, easing a little into today, and it’s been smaller in size south from Byron. However, Northern NSW’s south swell magnets picked up a new S’ly swell today that’s punched higher than expected with 3ft sets (against a forecast of 2ft). Conditions have been generally clean across the open beaches with mainly W’ly winds. 

Nice Friday S'ly lines at Coffs

Coupla lil' waves at D'Bah

This weekend (Aug 22 - 23)

Windy conditions are expected both days this weekend.

Today’s southerly swell is already easing across Southern NSW, so this trend will kick in across Northern NSW overnight and we’ll see much smaller conditions into Saturday. South swell magnets south of Byron may see a few stray 2ft sets early on, but expect a drop to around 1ft through the day. 

Elsewhere, expect very small residual E’ly swell to provide just-rideable waves (for the grommets) across exposed beaches.

Sunday looks interesting. Ultimately, it’s likely to remain tiny at most beaches, but the synoptic setup does have potential for an unusual spread of south swell to push up the coast. 

Gale force westerly winds pushing off the NSW coast on Saturday may just be sustained and broad enough to allow a small flush of south swell to bend back into south swell magnets of Far Northern NSW and some SE Qld beaches. Assisting this setup is a slight W/SW kink in the fetch early Sunday. 

It’s a low confidence event, but we can’t rule out something happening, as similar fetches have produced fun waves in the last. As for a ballpark size range, expected tiny to flat conditions at most beaches, 1-2ft at some south facing beaches, and maybe the odd 2-3ft rare bomb at one or two swell magnets. And, this is all likely to happen more in the afternoon than the morning. Also, such swells usually hit more from a SE direction thanks to the way they spread back, so this means a more closely spaced arrival time across the region.

Next week (Aug 24 onwards)

There’s been a slightly weakening of the upcoming Tasman Low, so I’ve dropped the estimated peak to about 6ft+ at south facing beaches south of Byron, with much smaller surf elsewhere. Size will continue to trend up through Monday so expect smaller waves in the morning, ahead of a peak late afternoon (mainly Mid North Coast, could be a delay in Far Northern NSW), holding into Tuesday morning before easing through the afternoon.

Across SE Qld, the peak in size is much more likely on Tuesday, though Monday should see a small increase through the day. However, the acute southerly direction won’t do us many favours. Early morning should see 1ft waves at most beaches and 2-3ft sets at south facing spots, the afternoon increase should be up by a foot or two but Tuesday looks like a better bet with 2-3ft waves at the outer Gold Coast points, and 4ft+ sets at south swell magnets and exposed northern ends. Overall, expect a little less size on the Sunny Coast.

Conditions look pretty good throughout this period. A weak front may skirt the Northern NSW coast on Wednesday bringing moderate southerly winds to most locations, otherwise we’re looking at early offshore breezes elsewhere and light to moderate afternoon sea breezes. 

For what its worth, Tuesday looks to be the pick of the entire forecast period so if you’ve got some flexibility, it’ll be worth pencilling this day into the diary.

The long term outlook has a modest though poorly aligned front through the lower Tasman Sea on Wednesday that’ll set up a nondescript S’ly pulse for the end of the week, so prior to this expect easing swells through Wednesday with similarly clean conditions under a light variable wind regime. The same conditions are expected Thursday and Friday though there won’t be much surf around, away from the south swell magnets. 

Long term outlook has another significant frontal progression across Tasmania around Friday, through next weekend and even into the start of next week - yes, four days of sustained activity - but current model gduiance suggests a strong zonal pattern (west-east) and therefore a poor alignment within our swell window. In short, not a lot of size potential.

Of course, things could change between now and then but right now there’s not a lot to work around long term, so it’ll be well worth capitalising on early next week’s south swell.

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

crustylapel's picture
crustylapel's picture
crustylapel Friday, 21 Aug 2020 at 8:03pm

typo bro in headline

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 21 Aug 2020 at 8:30pm

Argh. Thanks.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 22 Aug 2020 at 8:09am

Still a few fun small waves out of the south at Coffs. Grommet up and riding in the second shot, old mate cracking a nice one off the top in the last shot!




thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 8:12am

So, here's that unusual S'ly swell I mentioned in Friday's notes.

We need to keep in mind that Southern NSW has been generally tiny to flat from yesterday arvo through this morning, so today's waves are certainly originating from the gale force westerly fetch that pushed off the NSW coast yesterday.

Images below show a set swinging in around the Tweed Bar and into D'Bar. There's some fun waves in Coffs too, though surf size is smaller than you'd normally expect for a south swell (proportional to the size at D'Bah), and this because of the latitude of the source fetch (mainly off the Mid North Coast).

Love these kinds of unusual swells!




DudeSweetDudeSweet's picture
DudeSweetDudeSweet's picture
DudeSweetDudeSweet Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 8:21am

More likely originating from ripples displaced by the iceberg , which must surely be sitting just off the coast if the temperature is any indication.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 2:15pm

Yeah water temps have dropped big time.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 5:04pm

Late sets at D'Bah.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 6:35pm

bummer that swell never showed up before dark.

kbomb's picture
kbomb's picture
kbomb Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 6:59pm

What are the chances of this wind dying down on the mid nrth coast for monday morning?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 7:08pm

Will gradually ease through Monday but still may be a little gusty early on.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 7:06pm

Shoulder to almost head high on the Tweed all day. Chilly but fun.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 7:58pm

Not sure where you were Ben but my mate lives where you live and he checked his local today and it was tiny. Local board riders also called off their Comp at the same local beachie due to no swell.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 11:01pm

A mate surfed Caba early this morning and said it was surprisingly ok (he was expecting flat), with only 6 others out,  he's 6'5" and said chest high. So after the kids sport I hit south kingy on the high tide and was consistent  2 foot, bit straight but a few fun ones. 4 of us on the beachie, another 6 on the reef. One guy I surfed with did IRB training on the early low tide at salt and said he was also surprised at the waves on the outer bank. So there was waves around, not amazing but definitely not flat.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 24 Aug 2020 at 6:35am

Don, images below straight off the Caba surfcam around 8am Sunday (old mate's rail game on point, eh?). Tweed buoy data suggests this time was right at the start of the new energy, which held all day (though the offshore buoy picked it up before dawn). And for the record, offshore direction was S/SE, inshore direction E/SE.

Inshore buoy


Offshore buoy


donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 24 Aug 2020 at 8:41am

Gee that must have been a freak set as I checked that same cam throughout the day and it was tiny.

And my mates local is a south swell magnet compared to that cam also.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 24 Aug 2020 at 8:45am

Wasn't a freak set.. there were waves all day, albeit inconsistent. However, many of the Tweed beaches I checked were very strange, quite guttered and delivering erratic options even on the morning low tide, and they then became quite full on the high tide. Might have been the steep angle of the swell, not sure. Certainly wasn't an A-grade day of waves, but fun nonetheless.

All of that being said, I'm more interested in how we got a S/SE swell from a W'ly fetch!

the-flying-dog's picture
the-flying-dog's picture
the-flying-dog Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 8:48pm

How tall are you Ben?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 24 Aug 2020 at 6:36am

I'm actually 9'5", but I tend to crouch a lot when I surf.

kbomb's picture
kbomb's picture
kbomb Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 7:42pm

Thanks mate

Tristan Goose's picture
Tristan Goose's picture
Tristan Goose Sunday, 23 Aug 2020 at 10:11pm

2 footers on the northern sunny coast this arv