It ain't over, till it's over

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 25th May)

Best Days: Tues/Wed: more strong S'ly tending SE swell, though biggest in Northern NSW and a little wind affected at times. Fun and clean (though much smaller) SE Qld outer points.  Thurs: small clean leftovers. 

Recap: Look, I’m not going to spend too much time trying to describe the last three days of waves.. it’s been a pretty amazing run of swell(s), even if some coasts have been pushing well above comfort levels at times. In general, the weekend fluctuated in the 5-6ft+ range across Northern NSW, with late Sunday seeing a pulse of bigger S’ly swell that held into today, around 6-8ft at south facing beaches, occasionally 8-10ft at a few spots. Also in the mix for the entire period was a lully but quality E’ly swell, that built from 3ft to 3-5ft on Saturday, and maintained this size through Sunday and today. W’ly winds on Saturday swung W/SW through SW Sunday but it never really went S/SW across Northern NSW as expected. Today has reverted back to a general W/SW thru’ SW airstream.

Monday afternoon drainers at Snapper Rocks

Empty afternoon at Narrowneck

This week (May 26 - 29)

The Tasman Low is still active in our swell window (see below) though will begin to weaken from tomorrow. 

As such we’ll see elevated wave heights through Tuesday (6-8ft open south facing beaches in Northern NSW), along with a swing in the swell direction from the south to the south-east, thanks to a new fetch developing along the low’s southern flank. 

Surf size will ease slowly through Wednesday (still 6ft+ in Northern NSW), and then more steadily from Thursday. The current E’ly swell in the water will also ease steadily from Tuesday, so much so that it probably won’t be noticeable beneath the larger S’ly tending SE swell. 

Across SE Qld, we’ll see smaller size thanks to the easing E’ly swell and less favourable alignment of the S’ly tending SE swell. Tuesday should still manage inconsistent 3-4ft across outer Gold Coast points (a little smaller on the Sunshine Coast) but exposed northern ends and south swell magnets could see another foot or two. Expect size to then ease from Wednesday onwards. 

Winds are the main issue for the coming days, though it’ll still remain very good across the points and other sheltered locations. The Tasman Low has been positioned far enough south over the last couple of days to allow westerly breezes across our region. However, it will move slowly north over the coming days, swinging the wind to the S/SW across Northern NSW on Tuesday, eventually S’ly. It'll become quite gusty at times too.

Fortunately, SE Qld should largely be spared any major strength in the wind, as it’s expected to reach this region overnight Tuesday and then gradually weaken, so we’ll probably see all-day light to moderate W/SW winds Tuesday, then freshening SW breezes Wednesday morning before they ease into the afternoon. 

Northern NSW looks better on Wednesday with easing W/SW winds across the Mid North Coast, but Yamba through to the border may feel the lingering effects of gusty overnight S/SW winds, early morning - though they will also ease here during the day.

Thursday and Friday are looking a small residual swells with light winds Thursday freshening from the south on Friday as a weak front pushes up the coast. 

Northern NSW should see a continual supply of small useful E’ly swell these days, originating from strong to gale force E’ly winds exiting western Cook Strait (developing from tomorrow). This should maintain background 2-3ft surfthough the fetch is modeled to swing anti-clockwise over the coming days, aimed more towards Tasmania. So this energy may only show best on Thursday, before easing slowly on Friday.

This weekend (May 30 - 31)

We’ve got an average weekend of surf ahead. 

Lingering southerly winds on Saturday will take the sheen off small residual swells, and Sunday should be clean early but there’s a risk of afternoon northerlies as a series of strong fronts approach from the west. 

As for surf, the remnants of the Tasman Low will eventually merge with another centre of low pressure off the west coast of New Zealand’s North Island, forming a new S/SE fetch later this week that looks like generating some new swell for our region.

However, I’m uncertain whether we’ll see any significant surf - this looks to be a short-lived surface feature, and early indications are that its alignment may be off-axis for our swell window. At this stage I’m not expecting much on Saturday, and perhaps a small bump to 2-3ft on Sunday at south facing beaches south of Byron, smaller in SE Qld.

Let’s take another pass on Wednesday. 

Next week (June 1 onwards)

Next week is shaping up to deliver more strong fronts thanks to an amplifying node of the Long Wave Trough. So, there’s a whole stack of solid, windy south swell on the way. 

See you Wednesday!

Comments

SurfnSkate81's picture
SurfnSkate81's picture
SurfnSkate81 Monday, 25 May 2020 at 6:45pm

Long time listener, first time caller.

All I can say is it has been an amazing couple of weeks and I need some new shoulders.

Thanks for the forecasts.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 25 May 2020 at 6:58pm

it has been amazing.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 7:56am

Out of interest what board you been riding during the height of the swell?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 12:27pm

I rode the 7'6" yesterday and Saturday. Desert Storm. felt unreal.
6'6" DS Sun.
6'1" Ghost on Fri and heaps of other days.

all good wave boards.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 2:22pm

Yeah nice. Can only imagine the sessions going down in your patch lately. After the last few summers / autumn combos I'm sure you're reveling.

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Monday, 25 May 2020 at 7:07pm

Think I got the best wave of my life at Coolum this morning.

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Monday, 25 May 2020 at 9:02pm

Thats so fucken cool brother im stoked for ya

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 25 May 2020 at 9:31pm

How good! Give us a rundown. 

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 12:14pm

Well, I was out between about 7:30 and 10 yesterday. The sets, about 4-5ft, were pretty straight and it was running really fast. Most of the morning I just got spun around in the barrels shortly after takeoff. Then one of the sets had a bit of a open shoulder on the right and so I went for it. It still stood up a bit before it broke so it was quite a fast drop down the face but I stuck it and the it just started to suck up so hard off the sand. Was walling up really nice and steep I thought for a moment I was going to get barrelled but didn't quite happen. It was just so fast and the water had that look like it was being stretched up the face as you sped across it. I turned to shore just before it finally closed out and came in. Everything seemed kinda quiet after and I felt.. well just sort of at ease, not like I wanted to scream and shout, more like it just needed to sink in.

I kinda leant to surf about 15years ago but it's only the last few years living close enough to the beach to get in regularly that I feel I can actually surf. I've caught a couple of nice long rides up at Granites from the point back to the beach, they were pretty special, but the speed, and the look of the water being stretched as the wave sucked me in on that one yesterday made it the best one I've got.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 2:22pm

Epic, right in the pocket there and the critical part of a sucky wave, a little hand stall or board adjustment and you'd be barrelled. Thanks for sharing.

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 4:25pm

Just need a few more like that to practice on ;)

riley.willemse's picture
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riley.willemse Monday, 25 May 2020 at 7:18pm

Rainbow to kirra when that southwesterly swung sunday night was absolutelty insane. I waited all day and timed it to perfecrion. I got 8 waves from the middle of cooli halfway to kirra in an hour with 8 run arounds. Hands down the best surf ive ever had!

Byrnesy1's picture
Byrnesy1's picture
Byrnesy1 Monday, 25 May 2020 at 7:24pm

Hey Ben,
Did you notice anything crazy on the wave boys last night for the gold coast. We awoke, far southern end of Palm beach gold coast to see an extremely high tide line with debris scattered so close to the dunes. like what you might see with a 2m high and a cyclone swell. Yet we didn't have a real high high and not much swell. none of us could work it out. Haven't seen a wet water line that high in a long time. Got any ideas?
steve

bigwagon's picture
bigwagon's picture
bigwagon Monday, 25 May 2020 at 7:36pm

The tide was huge last night...plus big swell. That will do it

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 12:37pm

Tide data from the Gold Coast Seaway shows that residuals have been 20-30cm higher than normal over the last few days (see below).

It's unlikely to be the result of regular wave action, as surf size wasn't extraordinary across Palmy. I don't think it's the result of a Coastal Trapped Wave either; whilst I have never looked into the effects throughout SE Qld, I suspect this region would be susceptible under different synoptic patterns (driving winds and swells from the north through east).

Instead, I think it's got more to do with infragravity waves (see article link below). What I'm not sure about is the specific cause of significant events like this (aside from the obvious fact that the accompanying swells originated from a large Tasman Low). However I am genuinely fascinated in this and Craig and I are undertaking some more in-depth research at the moment.

https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-analysis/2019/06/11/waves-youve-n...

Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous Monday, 25 May 2020 at 7:54pm

Good times.
Gun fun a little south of the border.
Fark!!

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Monday, 25 May 2020 at 7:57pm

Nothing better than riding a 6'10 for three days and almost being undergunned. What a sensational couple of days, and tomorrow and Wednesday look good still.
As I sit in my chair and write this, there is a dull ache throughout the whole upper half of my body. Fuck it feels good.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 25 May 2020 at 8:03pm

Sounds like it's been all time up there! Stoked.

bluestick's picture
bluestick's picture
bluestick Monday, 25 May 2020 at 10:26pm

Been an amazing run lately. Just need a short break to re energise. All day great surf what a treat for round here.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 7:22am

Looks like Far NNSW and SE Qld are currently between pulses (from the south). Crowdy Head buoy has shot up again in the last few hours (bigger Hsig values than yesterday!) and Coffs is also trending up, already a similar size to yesterday. Though, with the low edging further north and the local wind field shifting more S/SW, there'll be a higher level of windswell contamination over the next 24 hours.

dannyp's picture
dannyp's picture
dannyp Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 7:59am

AC joint tear after a pretty routine wipeout on Sunday morning. Didn’t feel too bad at first... stayed out and bagged a couple of the roundest barrels I’ve had in a while! Was a struggle getting the wettie off afterwards. Probably gonna be out of action for a while. What a way to go out! Best weekend of waves in forever on the SC.

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 3:37pm

That's my number one fear at the moment. How long you reckon you'll be on the sidelines for?

I went for a swim last night in a vain attempt to give them a "clean out" or at least get some full rotations in to see where they are at. Not too bad, but I realised there is far too much pain to complete one single back stroke on me right shoulder, think it's time to go see someone. All those years playing footy and lifting weights the wrong way to keep up are coming back to bite me.

Happy you got some before the tear mate, it would have been far more painful missing out if it happened on an innocuous swell and you missed out on the past couple weeks :)

dannyp's picture
dannyp's picture
dannyp Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 6:59pm

That’s the ultimate question brother... went for scans today and I get the results tomorrow arvo. Hopefully it’s just a minor tear or sprain and I’ll be back in the water in a couple of weeks. I can’t imagine I’ll need surgery or anything too drastic... it’s already feeling a little less tender. I guess 6 weeks is the golden rule with ligament damage anyways.

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 7:41pm

Mate, good luck with it! My house mate got his scans back from getting cleaned up by the backwash at snapper two weekends ago, grade 3 MCL tear and looking like surgery is needed for this one. From what he says, the radiologists have been flatstick past couple weeks :/

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 8:16am

Lots of stoked punters on this thread. Bit envious!

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 12:59pm

The best part is that there's been waves on the beachies, reefs and points and a lot of them are holding size that they don't very often up here, and in clean conditions day after day.
So crowds have been fine and waves perfect.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 9:39am

Coffs rebuilding strongly.

mugofsunshine's picture
mugofsunshine's picture
mugofsunshine Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 9:55am

I usually don't check the reports 'till after I've surfed and for the last few years I've mostly chuckled at the SC 'updates'. Big thumbs up for organising the new reporter. Matter of fact and no MORE yews..

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 11:34am

It won't stop!

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 2:10pm

sssssshhhhhhh, stuck in the city all day. Itching for dawn patrol tomorrow. South winds still probable on the Sunny?

tubulargreen's picture
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tubulargreen Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 3:46pm

Pub feed and a few cold beers off the tap would top it all off

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 4:54pm

Managed this at a certain sc brewery on the weekend. Its offshore in a southerly....

dazzler's picture
dazzler's picture
dazzler Wednesday, 27 May 2020 at 10:12am

All I want, all I need, all I want is a good pub feed

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 3:55pm

One bloke out between Rainbow and Cooly!

I mean, sure, the swell's a little ridgy with a light northerly, but...

Erm..

Ahhhh... erm...

I dunno.

One bloke?

One?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 4:00pm

Oh christ, now he's gone in. There's no-one out. How's this set that just reeled down the bank? Sure, it ain't special, but.. wow.


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dudette's picture
dudette's picture
dudette Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 4:43pm

You are an example of everything that is wrong in today’s society and that includes surfers. Posting pictures and constant updates to line your pockets.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 4:58pm

Line my pockets?

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 5:28pm

Think that was a bit harsh because this is a great site ......but the constant screen shots aren’t good. They have become the new norm.

There’s a reason online surf reports for ever and a day show a shot of a shit wave as a guide not an epic lineup shot.

I don’t know what others think but constantly highlighting when the pass, Coffs, Burleigh, greeny, etc is good in real time........what’s the purpose of that?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 5:47pm

Surfcam images are very useful when hindcasting the performances of past swells. This helps qualify surf conditions across other coasts. So, new southerly swells visible at Coffs are a precursor to what's about arrive across the Northern Rivers etc, but it also provides a size reference in the event other coasts don't perform as expected.  

And in the case above, it's also managed to archive the only time in the last ten years where shoulder high waves have peeled down the Superbank without anyone out.

rich74's picture
rich74's picture
rich74 Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 6:12pm

don't stop doing what your doing Ben, i think most people get it that everything you post is relevant for people tracking swell events.There are always haters and it reflects their issues rather than anything wrong with this site..tweed coast was pumping again this morning and i dodged the snapped leggy and unintended ocean swim off caba which was fun yesterday..somehow found my board halfway to kingy washed up on the sand.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 6:39pm

I’m actually trying to be respectful and constructive. I understand your hindcasting premise and sure, if your showing uninspiring photos of gallows or newy. You yourself have unlimited access to cam replays and therefor all the archival evidence you could want to validate your forecasts.

Your forecasts are fantastic but they are just a guide. I don’t think you should feel you have to provide punters with real time shots to validate your predictions.

Just to illustrate my point:
Fri 22 May 11:19 ‘Burlz!’ (Lineup shot)
Sat 23 May 9:15 ‘Burlz!’ (Epic lineup shot)
Sun 24 May 8:08 (perfect Burleigh shots no comments)
Sun 24 May 8:24 ‘Snapper looking pretty alright’ + ‘plenty of peaks across Coffs too’ (shots of great Coffs beachies)

I’m not upset, I don’t even surf those spots. I just think there’s a fair bit of hype going on there.

Obviously you’re going to do what your going to do. I do acknowledge that I’m sure you guys show a fair bit of restraint for many areas too. I just thought you should know that some of us still believe that not everything has to be advertised.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 6:42pm

Just out of interest, are you on Facebook? Curious on your thoughts of the many local pages.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 6:53pm

No am not

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 6:57pm

Best I don't link you up then... you'll be most displeased! 

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 7:05pm

Haha, yeah no thanks mate.

Anyway all good. Just my thoughts. Obviously agree to disagree. Nice of you to reply.

Happy surfing

dazzler's picture
dazzler's picture
dazzler Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 5:06pm

Is everyone surfed out? I am!

dudette's picture
dudette's picture
dudette Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 5:02pm

Money bloke.

dudette's picture
dudette's picture
dudette Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 5:04pm

You’ve sold out with your website and hopefully your living in a nice shiny house around the tweed.

Troppo's picture
Troppo's picture
Troppo Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 7:20pm

Easy solution for you Dudette - don't visit this site anymore!! How simple is that??

Vast majority of Swellnet site visitors and subscribers seem more than happy with what the site offers. And if not, find somewhere else!

Ben - please don't be distracted by the small minority of detractors. Please keep the flow of info and updates coming.

Love your work mate!!!

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Tuesday, 26 May 2020 at 7:36pm

Dudette. I'm guessing you've heard about the rumour that Bill Gates bought half of swellnet and is making a 5g tower in cooly and needs as many people surfing as possible to spread Covid... The truth is out there.

The reason snapper etc is crowded is it's a tour venue and because it's in a highly populated part of the country. Not from comments on a weather forecasting website in a section which costs money. I might be wrong but I reckon paid subscribers would be in the low 100s Australia wide.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 27 May 2020 at 11:29am

Swell's hanging in there on the Sunny Coast.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Wednesday, 27 May 2020 at 12:59pm

Looks nice, pretty rubbish around this way this morning unfortunately, picked the wrong morning to get up early for a wave i think

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 27 May 2020 at 12:03pm

Thanks Huey, don't wait 5 years next time.