Plenty of useful swell sources developing

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 6th May)

Best Days: Entire period: fun round of E'ly swell, peaking later Sat/Sun. Also some reasonable S/SE swell in the mix over the weekend (biggest Northern NSW) but developing S'ly winds will spoil conditions Sun/Mon.

Recap: Tuesday maintained a good S/SE swell all day, with a minor strengthening late afternoon, against forecast expectations. South facing beaches south of Byron saw 4-6ft sets, with 2-3ft+ waves throughout SE Qld and a few bigger bombs at exposed northern ends. Winds were mainly moderate to fresh southerly (following early SW breezes in some spots) so outer points were the pick. A gradual easing occurred throughout though there was still plenty of size on offer, around 4ft+ across south facing beaches south of Byron, and 2-3ft throughout SE Qld in conjunction with a secondary trade swell that’s building across the region. Winds eased back but remained from the southern quadrant, with early sou’westers in place. 

Snapper still looking a treat this morning

Nice early sets at D'bah

This week (May 5 - 8)

In general, the trend for the next few days will be easing from the south across Northern NSW, but slowly building from the east across SE Qld. Even better, winds will become light so conditions will clean up nicely. 

Let’s kick off with Northern NSW first. Today’s S/SE swell will ease fairly steadily into Thursday; early 3ft+ sets are possible at south facing beaches (south of Byron) in the morning but it’ll be smaller elsewhere and abating through the day. 

Overnight Thursday, a new long period S’ly swell will glance the Southern NSW coast, generated by an intense low SW of Tasmania yesterday. Although core winds were recorded to 40-50kts, this low was positioned right on the periphery of our swell window and the fetch is very poorly aligned for us. 

The low is currently moving towards New Zealand longitudes and will develop much more favourable swell generating characteristics over the coming days, but for now the first round of energy from this system will be extremely flukey, with inconsistent 2-3ft sets an outside possibility at a handful of reliable south swell magnets south of Byron on Friday (more likely the arvo than the morning). Elsewhere it’ll be tiny. Don't bank on this swell, it's a low percentage event.

And there's a possible fly in the ointment for Friday too (in Northern NSW) - an afternoon freshening N/NE breeze. The morning should be clean with light NW winds though.

As for SE Qld, there’s a strong ridge through the Coral Sea right now and it’s generating some useful trade swell for SE Qld and Far Northern NSW. Surf size should maintain 2-3ft both days, with the odd bigger bomb likely across the Sunshine Coast (as it’s closer to the swell source). Wave heights will be slightly smaller south from about Ballina or Yamba.

Light winds and sea breezes are expected both days with clean conditions throughout.

This weekend (May 9 - 10)

Looks like a weekend of two halves. Light winds on Saturday north from about Ballina, but freshening NW to the south. And then a gusty S’ly change extending across all coasts on Sunday, though delayed in Far Northern NSW and SE Qld early morning with a period of light W'ly winds. 

As for surf, there’s quite a few sources on the charts. The trade flow in the northern Tasman Sea will become enhanced over the coming days from a small tropical low near southern Vanuatu, which will then drag to the east. This should lift surf size to around 3ft+ across most open beaches over the weekend, perhaps a slight delay early Saturday though holding nicely through Sunday and the start of next week.

The same low responsible for Friday’s flukey south swell in Northern NSW is expected to redevelop and restrengthen off the Antarctic ice shelf on Thursday morning, with storm force S/SW winds projecting up into New Zealand (see below). 

This isn’t perfectly aimed for our region but winds strengths are very good and the fetch is broad and strong, so it should generate a healthy spread of S/SE swell across the entire NSW coast this weekend. And there’s been an upgrade in the model guidance since Monday, so I’ve slightly increased my size expectations. 

For some strange reason the models are completely missing this swell. I’m not sure why - there are a lot of peripheral swells in the mix, so perhaps it’s further down the spectral priority list - but at the moment we’re looking at inconsistent 3ft sets at south facing beaches on Saturday, reaching 3-4ft across the Mid North Coast into the afternoon and then across Far Northern NSW on Sunday.

This S/SE swell will be smaller throughout SE Qld, around 2ft+ on the outer points and a little bigger at exposed northern ends though to be honest it’ll be hard to pick from the existing E’ly swell. 

Sunday will also see another small south swell into the afternoon (mainly across the Mid North Coast), originating from W/SW gales exiting eastern Bass Strait on Saturday. However by this time we’ll be under a gusty S’ly breeze so those locations picking up the most size will be wind affected. 

Next week (May 11 onwards)

A succession of strong fronts through the Southern Ocean will maintain varying degrees of small to moderate S’ly swell for Northern NSW's south facing beaches during the first half of next week (generally 2-3ft south facing beaches from Mon thru' Wed) ahead of a stronger pulse around Thursday that could reach 4-5ft+. 

The tropical low responsible for the weekend’s easterly swells will stall as a broad trough north of New Zealand over the weekend. It looks like it’ll be a useful swell generator for a few days though the greater travel distance will significantly impact the consistency of the swell. Nevertheless I’m expecting three or four days of intermittent energy somewhere in the 3ft range, with the odd period pushing slightly higher at times (say, 3-4ft). 

Sunday’s S’ly change will be associated with a developing ridge which will maintain fresh southerly winds for a day or two and generate some local S/SE swell for SE Qld, though no major quality is expected.

So, next week has plenty of swell sources on the cards but you may need to wait until mid-week for the best conditions. 

See you Friday!

Comments

Anthony Gale's picture
Anthony Gale's picture
Anthony Gale Wednesday, 6 May 2020 at 6:32pm

Links are wrong mate. Cronulla/Wollongong forecast notes coming up with se qld notes. Cheers

mark-or-skate's picture
mark-or-skate's picture
mark-or-skate Wednesday, 6 May 2020 at 6:32pm

Qld report posted for NSW

Chris010's picture
Chris010's picture
Chris010 Wednesday, 6 May 2020 at 6:33pm

Mate, is this region report right? Looks very SE QLD / Nth NSW focussed

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 6 May 2020 at 6:36pm

You blokes were quick.. only just posted! 'Twas the wrong category. Fixed now. Thanks :)

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Wednesday, 6 May 2020 at 6:46pm

Guessing we can expect some nice peaky beachies with a mix of south/southeast and easterly swell!
Will that east swell be in the water tomorrow morning ?

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Wednesday, 6 May 2020 at 8:05pm

BOM says Northerlies from Thursday arvo right through until Sunday Cape Moreton to Point Danger...?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 7 May 2020 at 2:26pm

Depends how you define "northerlies". Not expecting much synoptic strength at all.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Thursday, 7 May 2020 at 5:12pm

Fair enough. BOM now says NE until Sunday arvo, but nothing more than 10-15. Still enough to take the southern Goldie out of play although its been SSE all day in Cooly. Not an exact science this forecasting malarkey is it?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 8 May 2020 at 12:46pm

Local winds have so far been as per (my) expectations, and I'm not expecting to change the weekend outlook either.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 7 May 2020 at 2:26pm

Welcome to the Byron Sahara.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Thursday, 7 May 2020 at 2:33pm

never seen it like that ever.......does the beach down towards the great northern have sand or is that it .

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Thursday, 7 May 2020 at 2:58pm

This is from 30th April

Looks like some funky gutters up near Belongil too.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 8 May 2020 at 5:01pm

Wategoes supabank

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 7 May 2020 at 2:40pm

JackStance's picture
JackStance's picture
JackStance Friday, 8 May 2020 at 10:15am

I wonder how the sand is out Bullys?

Fun fact: in summer 1988 or 89, 3 bodyboarders aged around 12/13 were frothing their mugs off getting the waves of their lives, screaming "This is bullshit!!! This is Bullshit!! " for hours, then days... the rest is history. For yonks it was called Bullshits, now know as Bullys.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Thursday, 7 May 2020 at 2:58pm

Wild to see so much sand built up at the pass!
Good fun beachies this morning. Looked a bit crap at first but we went out anyway and got some super fun ones. Bit of size to it as well.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Friday, 8 May 2020 at 9:58am

Punchy waves on the SC beachies. Scored some fun ones at my high-tide spot. Flipping crowded, though and this particular break rarely exceeds 5-10 at any one time. COVID, eh.

By the way, the new surf reports here are super boring; get PridMORE and his eccentricities back.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 8 May 2020 at 12:21pm

Rather have accurate than interesting.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Friday, 8 May 2020 at 11:19am

Crowds are certainly not dwindling. Feels like the new norm for quite some time.
Epic full moon high and mighty for the dawnie.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Friday, 8 May 2020 at 11:24am

No crowds where I was, just head high shorebreak barrels. Water temp is back up to 24 degrees again, back in the boardies. Magic morning.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 8 May 2020 at 11:37am

Solo session this morning. Frustratingly inconsistent on the high tide but lovely head high peaks when they came through.

Tristan Goose's picture
Tristan Goose's picture
Tristan Goose Friday, 8 May 2020 at 2:11pm

When the tide on the sc dropped, had head high barrels, no wind and only a few people out

NoUseforaName's picture
NoUseforaName's picture
NoUseforaName Friday, 8 May 2020 at 3:57pm

Great day of waves. Two, three hour plus surfs. Surprisingly uncrowded. No wind all day. Punchy beach breaks. 3 foot plus. So good. More to come by the sounds of it. Yeeewww.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 8 May 2020 at 4:50pm

How's that $750 a week going haha.

NoUseforaName's picture
NoUseforaName's picture
NoUseforaName Saturday, 9 May 2020 at 11:52am

I wish. Company I work for is massive so it had to drop 50% for us to Qualify for Jobkeeper. Still working but hours have dropped substantially. Good time of year to have some weekdays off.

boogiefever's picture
boogiefever's picture
boogiefever Friday, 8 May 2020 at 4:37pm

Sunshine coast getting skunked, missing the swell but getting the crowds..... Gold coast has the sick banks....dbah, narrowneck. Check the cams.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Friday, 8 May 2020 at 4:41pm

Sunshine Beach looks pretty good on the cam right now?

boogiefever's picture
boogiefever's picture
boogiefever Friday, 8 May 2020 at 4:51pm

Jono.....govt conspiracy. Looped stock footage from years ago with the date changed. Im currently on the beach....1ft and onshore.....its better 200k south.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Friday, 8 May 2020 at 5:31pm

Ah yes I see, but now the furphy has somewhat backfired with me bringing attention to it

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 8 May 2020 at 4:53pm

I like your style boogiefever, the recent influx of SC Pridmores in these comments could learn a thing or two from you.