More wind, more swell on the way

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 13th March)

Best Days: Entire period: solid though windy waves across sheltered points (biggest Mon-Wed). Sat should see the only window of light variable winds across the Mid North Coast, though with smaller residual swells. 

Recap: Strong though somewhat jumbled mid-range SE swells have provided 4-5ft sets across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW over the last few days, with smaller surf along the Mid North Coast. Winds have been generally fresh SE though there have been regions of early light S’ly winds, ideal for the points. Winds have been lighter across the Mid North Coast and were offshore yesterday morning and also for a reasonable percentage of today. 

Snapper looking tasty this morning

This weekend (Mar 14 - 15)

Synoptically speaking, Saturday will mark a somewhat low point between this week’s windy conditions, and a fresh run of S/SE gales throughout the region from Sunday onwards.

Across SE Qld, there won’t be much of a change, especially across exposed coasts. Wind speeds may drop ten or fifteen percent from today but this will still be too much for open beaches, though we’ll see ideal conditions across the points and the southern Gold Coast should pick up an early southerly flow. 

Much of Far Northern NSW (north of Yamba) will see moderate to maybe S’ly tending S/SE winds, but south from here should experience light variable winds for much of the day, perhaps a moderate southerly into the afternoon. 

As for surf, the current E’ly swell will have eased back a little from today and will continue a downwards trend through into the afternoon. Early sets may still approach 3-4ft in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW but will be smaller south from Ballina. Protected points will also be smaller in size and won’t enjoy the high tide. 

On Sunday we’ll see a rebuilding combination of swells from several sources. 

A strong southerly change will push up into the Mid North Coast overnight Saturday, and a yet-to-be-named tropical cyclone in the Coral Sea will strengthen the supporting ridge to its south, which itself currently extends a fair distance eastwards out into the South Pacific (east of NZ longitudes). From Sunday it’ll start to consolidate around the approaching cyclone and this will strengthen core winds through the Northern Tasman Sea, and build ocean swells towards a peak early next week.

As such the main trend for Sunday will be a strengthening of winds. Early morning may be lucky enough to see lighter SW winds across a handful of locations but by late afternoon most locations should be approaching gale-force S/SE winds. So, it’ll be a day for sheltered points though initially the building swell will trail the increasing winds (so, don’t expect a lot of size early morning at protected spots). 

Much much size could we see? It’s always hard estimating the mid-way point of an upwards trend but late Sunday should be somewhere back into the 4-5ft range at most open beaches, smaller across the points. Expect undersized surf early morning.

Next week (Mar 16 onwards)

The outlook for next week has been quite up and down over the last few days, but we now appear to be consolidating towards a firm trend regarding the upcoming tropical cyclone in the Coral Sea.

As feared all week, this cyclone is expected to move too quickly through our swell window - not even taking the courtesy to set up camp near New Zealand’s North Island any more - and therefore will have little direct influence on our surf prospects.

However, indirectly, it’ll actually generate some good mid-range E’ly swell, courtesy of the supporting ridge to the south, which will broaden and strengthen nicely. Exposed beaches should see a broad plateau of size in the 4-6ft range from Monday through Wednesday as multiple swell trains overlaps from a retreating source. It’s not an ideal synoptic setup, and the swell won’t be very straight or well defined, but there’ll be plenty of size for sheltered points and with winds holding from the S/SE quadrant they’ll offer favourable conditions. 

Just on the wind trend - Monday looks to be pretty blowy (gale force in some regions) as the strongest influence of the cyclone affects the coastal margin. Tuesday will see a steady easing trend with pockets of early light SW winds, and they’ll become more prevalent into Wednesday as the ridge across the northern Tasman Sea weakens. 

Although the upcoming tropical cyclone will move too fast through our swell window for a significant swell event, its broad spatial coverage will ensure we see plenty of E’ly swell through the second half of the week, even as size eases. So, Thursday and early Friday could manage some inconsistent 3-5ft sets, through the trend should eventually head down as we head into next weekend. Light variable winds are expected for the second half of the week too.

Looking further ahead and there’s a couple of beefy fronts lining up below Tasmania later next week that should supply a whole stack of south swell for Northern NSW next weekend, but let’s wait and see how the models handle that in Monday’s update.

Have a great weekend!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 14 Mar 2020 at 8:08am

Nice waves at the Superbank this morning.

Clubbies are keen too! On the way out...

And on the way back in too...

alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Saturday, 14 Mar 2020 at 6:08pm

Every bloody kook out today!!

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Saturday, 14 Mar 2020 at 9:57pm

Bloody circus.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 8:01am

Welcome TC Gretel. See ya later!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 8:03am

what a bum.

freesurfer1977's picture
freesurfer1977's picture
freesurfer1977 Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 11:58am

Yeah, disappointing. Hansel or a high, or something to stop her coming and going so quick.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 4:25pm

anyone noticed an increase in swell yet? nice long lines, but i'm not seeing anything bigger than the last few days. points look slow and inconsistent. i was expecting more ...

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 4:53pm

mate it's the same windy 3ft junk here its been since this ridge first took hold.
losing the will to paddle out.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 5:08pm

I just came in,
It definitely wasn’t worth the effort

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 5:10pm

There's been some fun ones if you're patient.
Dunno about now but this morning there were clean faces with walls and bowls. Same thing yesterday morning.
Junky at first but got better as the tide came in and pushed things further into the bay and cleaned it up.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 15 Mar 2020 at 7:27pm

Agnes with the arvo sun on it looks like a nice [fat] fun wave....

simsurf's picture
simsurf's picture
simsurf Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 1:24pm

Caught one from little marley and stepped off on Greenmount beach yesterday. Surfed out on the longboard.

calk's picture
calk's picture
calk Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 8:22pm

What a feeling!

How many attempted drop-ins did you cop along the way?

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 2:01pm

I surfed a particular gold coast location yesterday all to myself. Although there was stacks of people to my south and north I had this place to myself. Couldn't believe it. Certainly snuck under the radar and this place is not a south facing beach but was def picking up more energy from the E/NE as the arvo went on.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 2:05pm

The rain has just stopped for the first time in 42 hours or so.

Was relentless and beautiful.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 2:19pm

You're relentless and beautiful Blowin.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 2:22pm

While still an obscene crowd by anywhere else's standards, snapper through Kirra on the cams seems quite less crowded than usual for the time of day and conditions (3ft, perfectly clean while blown out everywhere else).

Virus is definitely having a little bit of effect imo.

Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfc... Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 2:33pm

As not being a goldy local, do you reckon less overseas and interstate tourists is culling the snapper crowd a little?

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 6:00pm

I dunno, but the after work crowd is back in full force haha

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 3:01pm

one other guy out where I was, but that could have been the gale force side shore wind.

Roystein's picture
Roystein's picture
Roystein Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 3:02pm

No impact from the virus yesterday at Noosa
Packed

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 3:17pm

Looked like the reward to effort ratio was on the poor side.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Monday, 16 Mar 2020 at 3:24pm

Crap inside the bay in byron today. Have a feeling we're not gonna have much luck till winds back off later in the week