Good weekend for the beaches; next week's a little patchy

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 5th April)

Best Days: Sat/Sun/Mon: light morning winds in SE Qld/Far Northern NSW and a mix of swells, mainly E'ly, biggest Sunday, easing Monday. Good options across the Mid North Coast until lunchtime Sunday when N'ly winds will become a problem. 

Recap: We've seen a nice run of E’ly swell over the last few days with solid 4ft sets on Thursday easing to 3-4ft this morning across most open coasts, down a smidge throughout the day. Winds have been S/SE but lighter S/SW in the mornings. 

Plenty of fun peaks pre-Quik Pro at D'Bah this morning

This weekend (April 6 - 7)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

There's been no major change to the weekend forecast.

Light variable winds and sea breezes are expected across all coasts on Saturday. We’ll see easing E’ly swells from today but it’ll be ideal for exposed beaches with sets around the 3ft mark early, down to 2-3ft throughout the day. Expect smaller surf along the points, and perhaps a smidge less size across SE Qld in general (Far Northern NSW will rake in the upper end of the size spectrum).

Sunday looks great for SE Qld and Far Northern NSW with a continuation of light variable winds and sea breezes, and we’ll see good surf for a brief period early morning along the Mid North Coast before winds swing to the north and then freshen from the north-east throughout the day, thanks to a broadening high pressure system in the Tasman Sea. 

Sunday’s surf will receive a decent boost in size, with a long period E’ly groundswell pushing through from Saturday evening onwards (the late session Saturday may see early forerunners if we’re lucky). 

This swell will have been generated by a deep subtropical low positioned well SE of Samoa mid-week, and peak swell periods associated with the leading edge - overnight Saturday - should increase to around 15 seconds, bumping up set waves to 3-5ft at exposed beaches in Far Northern NSW for the Sunday morning session, and perhaps the exposed northern ends of the Gold and Sunshine Coasts if we’re lucky.

However, the enormous travel distance will result in very long breaks between waves. Surf size will be smaller running down the points too. 

As such, most of the surfing you’ll do on Sunday will be similar peaky E’ly swells as per Saturday (2-3ft open beaches, slightly smaller in SE Qld), with the inclusion of (sometimes) single-set waves of a foot or two higher, every now and then. 

Afternoon NE sea breezes are likely across all coasts on Sunday but they’ll mainly be problematic south from about Yamba. 

Late afternoon may also see a small pulse of new E/SE swell across Northern NSW, from a fetch developing today, west of Cook Strait (separating New Zealand’s North and South Islands), however the models have slightly downgraded this since Wednesday so it’ll come in smaller than the aforementioned E'ly swell. 

Next week (April 8 onwards)

The models have weakened the progged E’ly dips in the Tasman Sea for next week, which has therefore downgraded E’ly swell size for the longer term period (bummer!).

We'll still see small energy all week from this quadrant but it’s nothing worth getting too excited about; wave heights should manage a slow, inconsistent 2-3ft across Far Northern NSW beaches most days from Tuesday onwards - Monday will see larger sets early morning as Sunday's swell eases - with regionally smaller wave heights across the Mid North Coast.

SE Qld probably won't pick up as much size as Far Northern NSW either next week (again, expect smaller surf across the points).

As such, with intermittent swells, the forecast for next week looks a little average. We'll see freshening pre-frontal northerly winds Monday and Tuesday, strongest across the Mid North Coast and lighter as you head north, with periods of early NW winds favouring the open beaches, mainly Far Northern NSW and SE Qld

A deep low will track south of Tasmania around Tuesday but it’ll be poorly aligned for our region, so the resulting mid-week southerly swell will be small, glancing exposed south swell magnets with infrequent 2ft+ sets at best throughout Wednesday afternoon and Thursday.

However, an associated gusty S’ly wind change will advance along the coast from Wednesday morning, generating 4ft of local windswell for south swell magnets (south of Byron) by Wednesday afternoon, easing slowly during Thursday. These beaches will be pretty bumpy under the breezey conditions though, and it'll be smaller elsewhere - especially in SE Qld. 

There’s nothing major showing on the long term outlook yet either, just a bunch of peripheral activity on the fringes of our swell windows.

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 8:16am

I've looked at the surf and decided to wallow in self pity.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 8:17am

Eh? Here's an inside runner at Burleigh.. looks pretty nice to me! Almost every beachbreak should have decent options this AM.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 9:07am

Unreal cloud bank off the coast of Yamba (and some nice beachies too!).
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dannyp's picture
dannyp's picture
dannyp Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 11:47am

Yep still some fun options on the SC pushing 3ft at times. Mega crowded for the start of school holidays... bit of agro in the lineup unfortunately... I’ve always wondered why people can get so upset over 2ft beachies but some of the drop ins/blatant look-you-in-the-eye-before-trying-to-burn-you is enough to piss anyone off I guess.

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 12:14pm

Actually I did go out nice meaty peaks just a bit wind affected. No one out.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 6:32pm

Waves were puming on the back beach today. Never seen so many barrels on a beachie it was nuts. Got heaps pitted. Woooooooo

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 6:36pm

Same, pumping here today, solid 3ft sets, couple of bigger ones, no wind so super clean. Stacks of empty A frames. 

Richy's picture
Richy's picture
Richy Saturday, 6 Apr 2019 at 11:33pm

scored a famous point break this arvo no crowds and 3 foot long range sets.... Sometimes these days are the best

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 6:52am

Nice to see some of the region wave buoys record peak swell periods of 15 seconds overnight.

The Palm Beach buoy's spectral image is showing the new swell very well - the orange bits in the red square are of the most interest, however their 'blotchy' appearance suggests a distant source and thus very inconsistent sets.

As expect, most of the surf today is similar to yesterday (see first couple of image below from Burleigh). But every now and then a bigger long period set will cap on the outer bank, way outside the lineup (see last image). They'll be less visible as the tide increases but we're still only at the start of this swell so slightly bigger waves may show through the day.





simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 7:55am

well where i am its way bigger than yesterday,solid 4-6 ft ,bigger than forecast and pretty consistent.....blowing nw

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 8:11am

Wow, unreal. Surprised to see 6ft sets from such a distant swell source, but the fetch was pretty strong and the buoy data shows the energy is in the water. 

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 8:13am

Yes much bigger here.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 10:58am

Alex Headland looking pretty tidy.
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thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 11:00am

Surfed the Tweed Coast from about 9-10:30am. Biggest sets were 4-5ft though there were long lulls every now and then. Majority of waves I surfed were around the 3ft mark. 

But jeez, the power setting was up a good 30% from yesterday. Got my arse handed to me a couple of times.. could have easily been surfing West Cape or any exposed beachie in South Oz. 

Super clean conditions up until when I came in, becase the northerly had kicked in to 10-12kts.

alsurf's picture
alsurf's picture
alsurf Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 12:02pm

yeah definitely felt the extra power in the waves today there are some smoking waves about on the sc

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 12:28pm

Full stand up barrels down here...a touch too big if anything creating a slightly higher percentage of closeouts than makeable peaks. Not complaining though...it was pumping!!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 1:31pm

Wow, MNC must have picked up so much more than Goldy.
Surfed 3ft, maybe 4ft sets Dbah Sun then a very weak 2ft Greeny.

I'm yet to see a wave over 3ft this Autumn.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 1:39pm

MNC did very well. Mate confirmed 5ft heavy wedges on a back beach Sunday and then further south sets to 6ft (reported even higher but I'm sceptical). Sydney was 3-4ft with 5ft bombs, and surely you've seen a wave over 3ft? Not far north and south of you has been prime.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 2:22pm

Been better but prime?

There a million photographers out there feeding hungry Instagram accounts and I'm yet to see anything amazing, even with all the pros around.

March was woeful, and 6 weeks into Autumn we are yet to see a proper swell event.

If Sunday was the best day of the Autumn, which it probably was, that speaks volumes. That by any measure should be just a seasonally average day.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 2:27pm

Yep prime to proper pumping sorry to say. Not dropped below 3ft etc.. from Coffs to Seals. Today was the first time the swell has dropped below 3ft in Sydney since two Saturday's ago and the banks and conditions have been good to pumping. Hopefully next week turns for ya.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 2:35pm

Can confirm some tastey waves around. Even yesterday was very nice.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 2:49pm

ha, me too. We are basically stuck in the same groundhog day since October. Banks still very, very ordinary......as they were up the Gold Coast, apart from DBah.
We all saw how good Dbah was yesterday: small weak dogshite, blown out by 9am.

3 days of northerlies .......in fucking April!

Where are all the photos of these pumping waves Craig? Sorry to be cynical but based on what I've seen with my own eyes and the photos Ben has posted here, I'd really need to see photographic proof.

I gotta get out of here.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 2:48pm

Fistral Beach in England has better banks than my stretch of coast at the moment. At low tide you couldn't fault them with a ruler: every beach is tack flat from headland to headland. On the other hand that south swell two Sundays back did things on the reefs that'll go down in folklore. One particular slab was copping best ever calls and it wasn't just a lazy euphemism for good. The guys I've spoken to couldn't recall a session as perfect. Six guys, no photographers.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 2:53pm

That was the biggest dick tease ever here......that low sulked in close to the southernNSW/Gippsland coast then shot across the Tasman.
We got about 4 hours of surf here, 3-4ft and insanely crowded with a very dodgy bank that was the only thing on offer.

We needed that low to sit in the Tasman for a week. Remember when they used to do that?

That......would have been the start of Autumn.

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 2:55pm
Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 9:06pm

Autumn has started, there’s been quality waves, crisp mornings and if you think otherwise you’ve been looking in all the wrong places.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 10 Apr 2019 at 6:17am

I can't quite get my head around driving an hour to surf 3ft beachies on the Tweed coast......looks like I better though.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Wednesday, 10 Apr 2019 at 11:51am

different strokes for different coasts eh. Many local banks still only just beginning to recover a little following Oma. Was the same after that early spring East swell.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 10 Apr 2019 at 1:24pm

Totally. Even allowing for banks though, I've been keeping a daily surf report with photos for a few people up on the plateau who want something more accurate and timely than either SN or CW offers.

Based on that I have a high degree of confidence in calling this the worst start to an Autumn I've ever seen.

I know there have been some bits and pieces but overall it's been well below seasonal averages.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Wednesday, 10 Apr 2019 at 2:01pm

No doubt mate. Usually by now I've ventured down your way for a hit out or two by this time of the year.
Was down there a couple of weekends ago camping. Scoured the beachies and it did seem like a reasonably shitty state of affairs.
Best of luck for it to all turn around soon.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Tuesday, 9 Apr 2019 at 1:38pm

Sets at 4ft+ late Sunday morning after the wind change - really good with 5 people out.
Perfect window of wind and tide.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 1:40pm

I love autumn.

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 1:41pm

Absolutely delicious waves!

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 7 Apr 2019 at 5:47pm

anyone score on the GC today? i checked every beach from TOS to Nobbys and nowhere was doing it, even with clean 3-4ft swell and offshore winds ...

Nogaryno's picture
Nogaryno's picture
Nogaryno Monday, 8 Apr 2019 at 7:35pm

Which TOS did you check? The one I went to was solid and pretty good.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 8 Apr 2019 at 11:43am

Sunny Coast not looking too shabby this morning (not bad for two auto-capture images!).

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Monday, 8 Apr 2019 at 12:38pm

Anyone else mind surfing that Set at Coolum? Fading the takeoff, hard and clean off the bottom and take your pick off that section!!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 8 Apr 2019 at 12:41pm

Yes and yes.

bishmann's picture
bishmann's picture
bishmann Monday, 8 Apr 2019 at 5:47pm

No update for Monday ?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 8 Apr 2019 at 5:48pm

'Bout 5 mins away. A little impatient today, are we?