Small swell sources for the foreseeable future

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 29th December)

Best Days: Sun: chance for a few small peaky waves on the Gold and Tweed Coasts. Mon: small early south swell across Northern NSW's south swel magnets. Mon/Tues: small, flukey long range E/SE swell across SE Qld. Tues/Thurs/Fri: small, flukey south swells at magnets south of Byron. 

Recap: Small E/SE swells originating from a ridge atop a Tasman high has maintain peaky 1-2ft surf across SE Qld, with marginally bigger surf in Northern NSW, especially Thursday where we were still seeing easing size from an earlier SE swell that peaked Wednesday. Winds have been mainly light with OK conditions. 

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

This weekend (Dec 30 - 31)

Northerly winds will continue to create problems across all coasts on Saturday. With no new swell on offer it’s a moot point anyway.

Sunday has some minor potential for SE Qld and Far Northern NSW. An approaching trough from the south will strengthen N’ly winds off the Southern Qld coast Saturday night, generating some peaky N’ly swell for the Gold and Tweed Coasts around 2ft. It’ll be smaller on the Sunny Coast due to the shorter fetch length, and south from Byron the coastal alignment won’t favour much size. Don't get your hopes up at all, but some reliable swell magnets may have a few little options in the morning

Additionally, the leading edge of a small, extremely distant E/SE swell is expected to start appearing throughout the day, generated by a deep mid-latitude low well south of Tahiti earlier this week. The swell is not expected to peak until Monday or Tuesday though and it’s a flukey event so don’t get your hopes up.

The best aspect of Sunday is the surface trough, which will bring a cool southerly change to the Mid North Coast (bumping up exposed beaches), but we’ll see a reasonable period of light variable or offshore winds north from Ballina early morning. Southerlies will probably reach the border by late morning or lunchtime though it’s not expected to penetrate much further north than that, and we may see variable condition across the Sunny Coast (particularly the northern end) into the afternoon.

Otherwise, south facing beaches south of Byron (mainly the Mid North Coast) will also see a small increase in new S’ly swell throughout the day, being a mix of short range energy from the change itself plus some slightly better mid-range swell spreading back from a W/SW fetch exiting eastern Bass Strait later Saturday. However, model guidance suggests this energy will mainly push through overnight so don’t get your hopes up. And, south facing beaches south from Byron will generally see some form of southerly breeze too, which will bump up the surf. 

Next week (Jan 1st onwards)

Sunday’s late arrival of south swell should hold across Northern NSW’s south facing beaches (south of Byron) into Monday morning before easing throughout the day. Expect 2-3ft sets at swell magnets, and not much elsewhere. 

Otherwise, the aforementioned low confidence distant E/SE groundswell is expected to slowly mature through Monday and Tuesday. The Sunshine Coast has the greatest chance seeing some size from this source - maybe some 2ft+ sets - with smaller surf to the south, and very little chance of anywhere south of Ballina seeing any energy. There could be 20+ minutes between waves so don’t make any concrete plans around this event.

Light variable winds are expected through most of next week, so conditions are looking pretty good. However, there are not many other swell sources on offer. 

A small long period S’ly swell will glance the coast later Monday (Mid North Coast) and Tuesday (remainder of Northern NSW coast), originating from the parent low to the weekend’s change - poorly aligned, but quite broad and strong in the Southern Ocean. The models aren’t picking up this swell at all, but (as mentioned earlier this week), we have seen quite a few flukey south swell slip beneath the radar. 

These kinds of low confidence south swells will often favour just a handful of reliable south swell magnets, so keep your expectations low. But the odd 2-3ft set can’t be ruled out. 

Another poorly aligned but very large Southern Ocean low south of Tasmania around Monday will generate some south swell thats expected to glance the coast later Thursday and Friday. At this stage it’s likely to produce a similar result as per the Mon/Tues flukey south swell - low confidence and only favouring a handful of south swell magnets at best. 

Otherwise, the rest of the forecast period looks very small across the East Coast with no signs of major activity across any of our swell windows. 

There’s a few sources of energy worth keeping an eye on in the long term - probably the most likely system to bear fruit is a slowly deepening trough well SE of Fiji (but still inside our swell window) from Monday onwards that will probably become a source of small, distant but long-lived E'ly swell from the end of next week onwards, possibly for a week or so as the synoptic pattern looks like it’ll be very slow moving. 

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 4:32pm

Still a few small waves across SE Qld beaches this afternoon.


donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 30 Dec 2017 at 7:26pm

It is December yeah? :(

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 30 Dec 2017 at 7:32pm

we've gone back to the Spring we never had.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 30 Dec 2017 at 9:01pm

Yup

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 31 Dec 2017 at 6:15am

That lil' NE windswell is trying its hardest on the Gold Coast this morning.

Currumbin:

Burleigh:

Otherwise, how's the blood-red sunrise at Caba?

And Yamba looking stunning this AM, shame about the lack of surf though.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 31 Dec 2017 at 9:52am

beautiful 1ft babyfood here before the change.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 31 Dec 2017 at 10:34am

Pinkies and pearlies on the chew.

Good times and great tastes.

Surfing.....not so much joy.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 31 Dec 2017 at 11:42am

Southerly change hit the Hastings/Caba stretch just after 11am. Prior to then the beachies had fun little peaks, bigger than 1ft but slightly less than 2ft, super clean and amazingly clear/warm water. Perfect for the groms, who had a ball.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 1 Jan 2018 at 6:26am

Nice to see Northern NSW pick up the expected south swell. Coffs has decent 3ft sets on offer:

As for the flukey small distant E'ly swell, it's hard to tell if it's arrived. Buoy data is inconclusive (though, an optimist would suggest the Moolooaba buoy is showing a faint signal that's stronger than any of its southern cousins). I watched the surfcams for a bit, and it does appear that there's marginally more size and definition across the Sunny Coast than the Gold Coast, but we're splitting hairs as size is barely 1.5ft, and this could easily be residual swell from a number of sources. Anyway, I'll keep an eye on it throughout the day.

Sunshine Beach:

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 1 Jan 2018 at 7:55am

Some nice small lines at Coolum:

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 1 Jan 2018 at 11:45am

Period's edging up now, i guess that's it , bit small tho...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 1 Jan 2018 at 12:55pm

Yeah - the Mooloolaba buoy picked it up before the Tweed buoy which confirms it’s east swell and not south swell (which is also visible in the water down here).

I wouldn’t write it off yet, these super long range swells often peak 24 hours after the leading edge. So there is plenty of time to go yet.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 1 Jan 2018 at 1:28pm

This can't be far off 2ft, can it?