Large windy waves easing over the coming days; no shortage of swell into the long term

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 19th June)

Best Days: SE Qld: biggest and best for the outer points Tues/Wed, though comparitavely small in contrast to Northern NSW (which will be largely blown out away from sheltered spots). Small waves for the rest of the week in SE Qld. Northern NSW will see fun waves at sheltered points all week. Sat/Sun: fun clean beachies in most areas (banks pending). Sun/Mon: building long period S'ly groundswell in Northern NSW with good winds. Not much in SE Qld though. 

Recap: Saturday saw smaller, but steady E’ly swells around the 2ft+ mark across most coasts, a little smaller across the Sunshine Coast, and with early periods of good winds. Surf size eased a smidge into Sunday and winds picked up from the south at times. Today we’ve seen a rapid increase in southerly swell thanks to a Tasman Low, essentially pulling forward the timeline of the swell cycle expected over the coming days. However despite large waves reported in Northern NSW, the Southern Gold Coast outer points haven't seen much more than inconsistent 3ft sets, and it was smaller across the protected Sunshine Coast locations (however, the northern ends of these coasts did see bigger waves in the 3-5ft range). Winds have been gusty from the SW thru’ S so conditions have been pretty tricky. 

Head high sets at Currumbin around 2:30pm

This week (Jun 20 - 23)

Based on model data alone, we should be seeing the swell peak tonight and into the early hours of Tuesday morning, before it eases slowly through Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.

However, buoy data tells a different, more complex story - whilst swell heights are still climbing across the Moolooaba and Brisbane buoys, size peaked across Gold Coast and Tweed Coast buoys around lunchtime and have since backed off. 

South of the border, the Byron buoy is still out of action, however the Coffs buoy has been steady at 4m Hsig since midnight, and the trend has been very similar - albeit slightly smaller in size - at the Crowdy Head buoy (near Port Macquarie) since about 9pm last night.

So, this suggests the Gold/Tweed Coast buoys are outliers and we’ve got plenty more swell ahead for the entire region. 

And this fits in with the synoptics too. A broad Tasman Low is currently aimed mainly towards Northern NSW and SE Qld, but it’s undergoing some changes and will slowly weaken the primary SE fetch over the next day or so, as a developing secondary easterly fetch aligns into Southern NSW’s swell window. 

The low’s western flank will then reactivate from late Tuesday onwards, though the fetch it generates will be very meridional (north-south) and aimed into the Coral Sea. As such we’ll see a smaller spread of SE swell from this source later in the week. 

So, the model trend is probably pretty good (i.e. down from Tuesday onwards), albeit overcalling wave heights at the moment - mainly due to the high level of local windswell contamination in the mix. 

And to be honest, with at least moderate to fresh S’ly quadrant winds expected until Thursday (with isolated regions of SW winds) the only surfable options will be at the protected points anyway.

As such, the main talking point in these notes should really be around the size prospects for SE Qld. Due to the position of the Tasman Low, there’s a healthy percentage of south in the current direction so this will shave off a considerable amount of size across protected points (like Noosa). Outer SE Qld points should see some 3-4ft sets on Tuesday though it’ll likely be down to an inconsistent 2-3ft+ by Wednesday morning, and then smaller into the rest of the week.

Expect bigger, but much more wind affected waves at exposed northern ends. 

However, it's worth mentioning that I'm always less confident on size estimates for SE Qld as soon as there's some south in the swell direction, as small increments in degrees seems to have a radical effect on size potential. Consistency often drops with more south in the swell direction too. 

As for Northern NSW, Tuesday morning could see stormy 6-8ft+ waves at south swell magnets but in essence your only options will be at protected corners and points. Semi-exposed locations will still be quite large and with a strong sweep you’ll want a good pair of paddling arms. Expect more manageable conditions by the end of the week. There’ll also be some E/SE swell in the water from Wednesday to Friday, spreading north from our developing fetch aimed to Southern NSW, plus a secondary fetch at the backside of the low, in the eastern Tasman Sea. 

On that note, with light variable winds expected across the Mid North Coast by Thursday, extending north to Far Northern NSW and SE Qld on Friday, it’ll probably be the case that exposed locations (mainly south of the border) will take a few more days to settle down, following what will essentially been almost a couple of weeks of near-continuous southerlies about the coastal margin. 

And that’s before we begin to take a look at the updated bank situation. 

However SE Qld should have fun (though small) clean waves to end the week

As a side note, there are a few small long period S’ly swells due to glance the coast over the coming week but with so much mid-range activity in the water, it’s hardly worth discussing them as they won’t be visible anyway. 

This weekend (Jun 24 - 25)

Residual SE and E/SE swells will ease across the region on Saturday, before easing slowly during the day and further into Sunday.

I’m not expecting much more than 2-3ft+ sets at south facing beaches south of Byron early Saturday, down to 1-2ft from these sources into Sunday. Expect smaller surf across SE Qld beaches. 

Conditions should be excellent with light offshore winds on Saturday, and Sunday will also see clean conditions with light winds. 

Of much more interest for Sunday across Northern NSW will be a series of southerly groundswells, generated by an intense Southern Ocean low that’s expected to deliver very large waves to SA, Vic and Tas on Saturday.

We’ll see new swell energy from a couple of sources - initially, some mid-range energy from the northern flank of the front as it pushes east of Tasmania on Friday night, offering 2-3ft sets at south facing beaches.

However the real juice - sourced from 50-60kt winds around the core of the low - will start to nose into Northern NSW during the early hours of Sunday morning (peak swell periods of 19-20 seconds) and should fill in 3-5ft sets at south swell magnets by the afternoon - arriving across the Mid North Coast around lunchtime, with a later arrival north from Yamba. Size will be much smaller at beaches with less southerly exposure.

I’m not confident for much size to reach SE Qld beaches away from the region’s handful of exposed south swell magnets. So, we’ll probably see very small waves both days here. 

Next week (Jun 26 onwards)

Sunday’s long period S’ly swell will ease slowly from Monday, though deliver great waves in the morning with offshore winds. 

Looking further ahead, and a new series of fronts pushing into the lower Tasman Sea will renew strong southerly swells through the middle of next week. More on that in Wednesday’s update.

Comments

mbl88's picture
mbl88's picture
mbl88 Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 6:39am

hype train in full effect this morning

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 6:45am

hasn't this been hyped to buggery.....not here.... but by mainstream news/weather outlets. I've noticed that is a real trend that has been gathering steam lately.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 8:05am

See it every storm, so annoying and also discredits us as meteorologists even though we're not the ones pushing it.

With cut backs on journalists, it seems like 'severe' weather events are easy news stories to whack together for click throughs.

Clam's picture
Clam's picture
Clam Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 8:42am

Craig they will never write like you do . Not even a hope . Keep up the good work on the notes, theyre gold !

"Of much more interest for Sunday across Northern NSW will be a series of southerly groundswells, generated by an intense Southern Ocean low that’s expected to deliver very large waves to SA, Vic and Tas on Saturday.
We’ll see new swell energy from a couple of sources - initially, some mid-range energy from the northern flank of the front as it pushes east of Tasmania on Friday night, offering 2-3ft sets at south facing beaches.
However the real juice - sourced from 50-60kt winds around the core of the low - will start to nose into Northern NSW during the early hours of Sunday morning (peak swell periods of 19-20 seconds) and should fill in 3-5ft sets at south swell magnets by the afternoon - arriving across the Mid North Coast around lunchtime, with a later arrival north from Yamba. Size will be much smaller at beaches with less southerly exposure"

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 11:53am

Thanks for the kinda words, that's Ben's work but :)

wally's picture
wally's picture
wally Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 11:50am

I just counted 5 jet skis on the Burleigh cam. I might have missed some.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 12:05pm

Here we go again ...just watched a set with high speed tow ins amongst paddle surfers

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 12:14pm

There must be 9 skis out there.

Imagine the noise , smell and wake alone.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 12:22pm

There's way more than 5. looks more like 9.
Saw a couple of near misses when a head bobs up from the wave before, and the ski is out in the flats on the wave behind it. Only a matter of time.

Edit: Jinx Blowin, you posted while I was identifying which squares had vehicles and roadsigns in them...

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 1:17pm

I've never seen more barrels via a webcam than between 11:30am and 1pm on the Currumbin webcam. Looking forward to the highlight reel! There was one where a guy got a double barrel the first one was nearly 5secs long feeek!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 1:35pm

How's this random grab from our Currumbin surfcam. Open the image in a new tab.. bloke on the top wave is slotted deep.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Tuesday, 20 Jun 2017 at 6:45pm

Nothing like the Goldy points, but outer Noosa had some absolute crackers this morning, near flat around the inside,which confused those not in know.....testimonial to the power of this swell

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 21 Jun 2017 at 3:02pm

Some footage of yesterdays Burleigh pits on Surfline

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Wednesday, 21 Jun 2017 at 3:35pm

Some great barrels around this morning, bit of a hunt but scored. Sand is epic in some spots