Fun surf for the beachies this week. Points for the weekend?

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 15th May)

Best Days: Tues: easing E'ly and a small possible S'ly swell, with good winds. Wed: Easing S'ly swell in Northern NSW with light winds. Only small in SE Qld. Thurs: small S'ly swell in Northern NSW with light winds. Only small in SE Qld. Sat/Sun/Mon: building E'ly swells with good waves on the protected SE Qld points. Long period S'ly swell in the water in Northern NSW Sat and also later Mon and Tues

Recap: There’s been plenty of east swell over the last few days; size eased slowly into Saturday before rebuilding into Sunday and then slowly easing again today. Though we’re still seeing plenty of nice lines across the coast (check this still from our Byron surfcam a short time ago, late Monday afternoon). 

This week (May 16 - 19)

The fetch that generated yesterday’s and today’s swell is related to a broad trough through the Tasman which is now consolidating into a Tasman Low east of the Southern NSW coast. 

As such, this E'ly fetch is rotating anti-clockwise away from our swell window, which means we’re looking at easing swells over the coming days.

Very early Tuesday morning may see some lingering 2-3ft sets across exposed beaches but it’ll likely become smaller throughout the morning and further into the afternoon. Expect surf size to tail off more rapidly across northern locations (i.e. Sunshine Coast) - by contrast, the Mid North Coast may retain a reasonable degree of size into the afternoon as the fetch will have spent a little more time in its swell window. 

There’s also another interesting swell source for Tuesday. As the low develops in the southern Tasman Sea, strong SW winds will extend across its northwest flank (i.e. from Southern NSW out into the northern/central Tasman). Although poorly aligned for our coast, we have on occasion seen small southerly swells spread back into the mainland from these kinds of setups.

Our model is picking up 3ft across south facing beaches of the Mid North Coast from this source on Tuesday, and it’s plausible late afternoon or even early Wednesday morning could see some small southerly lines at south swell magnets north of the border. However it’s a tricky source - most of the unusual surf we see from these events are associated with surface winds of 40kts or more, which is unlikely this time ‘round - so I wouldn’t get your hopes up (beaches not facing south will be very, very small too).

Otherwise, the Tasman Low will be a bit of a fizzer for Northern NSW (and especially SE Qld). On paper, this week's synoptics look much more favourable - had you been staring at the MSLP charts in the Sydney Morning Herald (circa ’95), it’d be expected that we’d see a quality run of large SE groundswell for much of the week thanks to a slow moving low positioned in the Tasman Sea as such. But the reality this time ‘round is that all of the steering mechanisms are in the wrong spot for this low, and the strongest pressure gradients are on the wrong flanks. 

As such, following a peak in south swell early Wednesday, the rest of the week will see small residual S/SE swell from the latter stages of the Tasman Low as it tracks close to New Zealand’s South Island. South facing beaches south of Byron may see 2ft+ sets, and elsewhere we’re looking at a slow mix of swells (including some residual E’ly swell) around 1-2ft. 

Friday looks pretty ordinary just about everywhere, with a deepening trough across the inland states expected to see freshening E’ly winds about most coasts. We’ll eventually see a building local swell but with no great quality is expected initially.

This weekend (May 20 - 21)

The models are suggesting a late season tropical low will form in the Coral Sea this weekend. This holds good potential for a building E’ly swell across SE Qld coasts, with the biggest waves likely on the Sunshine Coast (3-5ft) by Sunday and slowly easing size south from here. Expect smaller waves prior to this.

Winds won’t be great either day, but there should be some fun runners down the points. 

We also have an interesting south swell on the way for Northern NSW on Saturday, generated by a polar low that’s expected to push underneath Tasmania Wednesday and track towards New Zealand, eventually merging with this week’s Tasman Low. At this stage it looks like it won’t be especially well lined up in our swell window, so we’l be relying on long swell periods to compensate for the poor alignment. Set waves should reach 3ft+ at south facing beaches south of Byron. Let’s take a closer look at this on Wednesday.

Next week (May 22 onwards)

This weekend’s merging systems near New Zealand’s South Island are expected to extend a broad fetch of southerly gales down to the Ice Shelf.

This should generate a good quality long period S/SE swell across Northern NSW for Monday afternoon, and wave heights could push 3-5ft at exposed spots later in the day and into Tuesday. Even SE Qld may pick up some small waves form this system due to the unusual long range SE source,which is a l;ittle better located inside our swlel window though over a very long distance. 

Our model is picking up the periods nicely but doesn’t have much in the way of swell size (which I think is erroneous), so the corresponding surf size is disproportionately small. Let’s revise on Wednesday to see if the models have adjusted. 

Otherwise, the complex troughy pattern across the eastern states is likely to continue to remain a swell generating feature through the first half of next week, though there’s not much agreement in the models so we’ll need a few more days to build any level of confidence in the likely size and conditions.

Comments

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Monday, 15 May 2017 at 7:07pm

Thanks Ben, nice to have a run of fun waves. Few fun banks around to go with it too.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 15 May 2017 at 7:48pm

Wild looking system way out in the South Pacific for last week of May..not so far out in the prognosis to be complete fantasy?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 May 2017 at 7:54pm

Yeah too far out for now.. we have a couple of weather cycles prior to this so it's likely things will move around between now and then.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 10:20am

Super fun beachies this morning. Had a shocking surf but that was my fault, not the waves (actually, I'm gonna blame poor board choice). Inconsistent at times but glassy, peaky 2-3ft sets, and water temps are still ideal in boardies.


WarHawk's picture
WarHawk's picture
WarHawk Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 2:34pm

Man that looks fun. Especially without a crowd. Have scored some fun reef sessions after work the last couple days. Any hope on still having 2footers around in the morning on the sunny coast?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 11:51am

Still a few little waves on the Sunny Coast.. but jeez it's drying up quick.


linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 3:07pm

Swell smaller today, but man, what a bag of fun. Not crowded and some very fine banks around, had a blast.

Surfshack77's picture
Surfshack77's picture
Surfshack77 Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 4:47pm

Super-fun glassy peaks this afternoon on the beachies - seems like a slight pulse increasing size and consistency here compared to this morning, which was fun and clean all the same.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 5:03pm

Surf was down a smidge on the Tweed Coast this afternoon, more 2ft than 3ft (the reverse compared to this morning). However I was on the Cooly stretch early afternoon and it was pretty small and weak there, just 1-2ft. Swell direction seems to have gone more SE too.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 6:10pm

Pumping day today and no crowds.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 16 May 2017 at 6:17pm

yeah, last two days have been great.....punching above forecast weight.

it's been a bit of a pattern....the hyped swells have under-performed and the spaces in between have under-promised and over-delivered.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 May 2017 at 9:50am

Only small on the Gold/Sunshine Coasts this morning but the Tweed is picking up this S/SE swell nicely with 2-3ft sets. Wouldn't be surprised if it's a little bigger south of Byron, though Coffs and Yamba look within forecast spec.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 17 May 2017 at 10:22am

Tweed was punching above this morning Ben. Two separate reports of mine came in at 3ft with 4ft bomb sets, and these weren't at south facing beaches so swell must be east of south rather than due south.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 May 2017 at 10:24am

Hmmm, didn't look anything above 3ft to me (same spot I surfed yesterday) though may have been between sets. 

Everywhere else I checked on the way looked smaller. Wasn't much out in front of the office either.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 17 May 2017 at 10:03am

Yeh there was plenty of swell around. Didn't have time to suss out more spots. Wasn't doing it on the lower tide.