Moderate southerly swells for Northern NSW from Wednesday thru' Saturday

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW  Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 3rd October 30th September)

Best DaysWed/Thurs/Fri: good south swells for Northern NSW with generally favourable winds (tiny in SE Qld). Sat: smaller, easing S'ly swell in Northern NSW early morning with good early winds (tiny in SE Qld). 

Recap: SE Qld has been essentially flat for the last three days. A small south swell built across the Northern NSW coast on Sunday and then eased today but it's been too small to bother with.

This week (Oct 4th - Oct 7th)

We’ve got a tricky forecast period ahead for Northern NSW, with a number of complex south swell sources. 

However, by and large the outlook for SE Qld is for tiny surf for almost the entirety of this week, all weekend and probably the first half of next week at least, if not longer. So keep your fishing rod handy north of the border as it’s going to come to good use for quite some time.

Freshening northerly winds today won’t generate much windswell for the region and with a gusty W/SW change pushing over the coast tonight there won’t be much short period N'ly swell on offer for Tuesday, even at exposed north facing swell magnets. 

W/SW gales off the Southern NSW coast early Tuesday morning may generate a small flush of weak S’ly swell for south facing beaches in the Far North later Tuesday afternoon (and maybe one or two swell magnets north of the border) but I’d be surprised if there was much more than a foot to two of lacklustre waves in it. 

Elsewhere - i.e. from Yamba or Coffs south, and most of the Sunshine and Gold Coasts - expect tiny to flat conditions to persist on Tuesday.

Overnight Tuesday, a stronger, better aligned front will push NE of Bass Strait and this will generate a more useful south swell for Wednesday. We’ll probably start from a small base, but the Northern NSW coast should build to 3-4ft+ at south swell magnets during the afternoon - however conditions may be a little suss with early SW winds likely to swing moderate to fresh S’ly after lunch. So, those beaches picking up all of the size may be wind affected.

Surf size will be much smaller at beaches not open to the south, and we may see slightly undersized afternoon wave heights in the Far North, owing to a likely overnight peak in size (Thursday morning may show this swell a little better).

North of the border, most beaches will remain tiny on Wednesday, but the region’s couple of reliable south swell magnets could see a few 1ft to maybe 2ft sets late in the day, and conditions will be clean - but I wouldn’t recommend any major highway mileage, as the swell is expected to be a late arrival here on Wednesday (especially across the Sunshine Coast), if it arrives at all. 

This south swell will ease rapidly through Thursday, probably showing best across south facing beaches south of Byron at dawn. It will have already begun easing across the Mid North Coast by this time and will consequently be much smaller here.

The outlook for the second half of the week has changed a bit for Northern NSW. We’re still looking at an intense low passing east of Tasmania on Wednesday, but it’s now modelled to slide south of Tasmania rather than north (through Bass Strait) - see the explanatory images below.

Despite core wind speeds likely to reach 50kts, this storm is also expected to travel a little faster through the swell window, which means we’ll see smaller surf across the Northern NSW coast than what was indicated in Friday's notes. And, it's expected to arrive a little later.

We’ll actually see two swells build later Thursday and Friday from this system. This initial energy will be generated by the W/SW gales exiting eastern Bass Strait, across the northern flank of the low. 

South facing beaches in Northern NSW will pick up the most size, with the Mid North Coast building to 3-4ft+ mid-late afternoon Thursday. This swell probably won’t reach the Far North Coast until overnight Thursday, showing best on Friday morning.

Longer period S’ly swell from the core of the parent low tracking across waters SE of Tasmania is then expected to reach the Mid North Coast early Friday - arriving mid-late morning across the Far North Coast - and should push closer towards 3-5ft at most south facing beaches by the afternoon. This swell will display much longer swell periods and therefore could show much bigger at offshore bombies. But once again, any beach not directly open to the south will be much smaller in size. Conditions will however be clean both days with light morning offshores and afternoon sea breezes. 

Across SE Qld, we’re looking at very small conditions at most Gold and Sunshine Coast beaches on Thursday and Friday. Some outer points and exposed northern ends of the coast may pick up small 1ft waves through Thursday and maybe some extremely inconsistent 2ft sets on Friday, but I’m really pegging my expectations towards the lower end of the spectrum. Everywhere else will probably remain tiny to flat.

This weekend (Oct 8th - Oct 9th)

Looks like easing S’ly swell will dominate the weekend

Friday’s solid long period swell will probably lose a foot or two overnight into Saturday morning, with south facing beaches in Northern NSW picking up early 2-3ft bombs before it eases further during the day

Smaller surf is then expected on Sunday.

And, most of SE Qld will probably remain tiny to flat both days

As for winds, a shallow southerly change approaching the region could freshen northerly winds on Saturday ahead of a southerly flow for Sunday but we’ll have to revise the details on Wednesday. 

Next week (Oct 10th onwards)

Another large Southern Ocean low is on the model guidance for the longer term period, crossing Tasmanian longitudes and possibly setting up a small N’ly windswell early in the week, followed by a large S’ly swell for Northern NSW during the middle of the week. it’s still a very long time away though so let’s see how things progress over the coming days.  

The outer fringes of the models also have a possible tropical disturbance across the Fijian region early next week but that’s a very long time away in what’s not a reliable time of the year within our eastern swell window either. So, confidence is very low on that source right now.

Comments

tomc's picture
tomc's picture
tomc Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 4:39pm

hey ben,
is there any chance somewhere on the sunshine coast (closer to Noosa) will have surfable waves over the next few days, if so where would be the biggest swell magnet?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 4:52pm

Tuesday and early Wednesday, no chance. Maybe late Wednesday (and then Thurs/Fri) for a very small wave but I'm not naming locations. Use your imagination and I'm sure you can work out what beaches are most exposed to the south and therefore have the most potential.

But.. It will be very small at best.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 5:13pm

Worst flat spell in years. Not even "it's so messy you wouldn't bother" flat, actually no swell at all flat. Going on 4 weeks now and the 2 before that were mostly rubbish AND heading in to what's usually the 2 worst months of the year. Any particular reason for the flat spell or just weather doing weather?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 5:27pm

Weather doing weather.

I wish I had the time to do a more exhaustive investigation but the data required is considerable (to come up with anything meaningful).

Interestingly, this time last year was (unseasonably) pumping, right through into summer too. Funny how we don't question the patterns as much then! Maybe because we're exhausted.

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 5:29pm

Thanx Ben, still on track for some sort of swell Wed,thur, fri, in nth NSW with reasonable early morn conditions! can,t wait to leave this wave desert in S/east Qld! one surf in 7 days is'nt a GR8 average!!

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 7:30pm

Far out.....beginning of this year was super fun; consistent with great banks and living with that awesome surfed-out feeling. Seems such a long time ago now. I brace myself every year for spring but this is getting beyond a joke now.
Thanks for your work Ben, look forward to the notes every time, even if you are the bearer of bad news haha

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 8:44pm

Hard to say how this spring will compare to last spring, seeing as we are only one month in.
So far, there's been heaps of fun days here in Sep.

Big difference between this spring and last is that last spring we had awesome banks everywhere, and those banks continued into summer.

4 months after the June Black Nor-easter and some of the best pointbreaks in the region are still boat harbours. They just don't exist as surf spots. The hangover from events like that can last a year.

One thing I know, my favourite swell magnet is now the sharkiest spot in the world.

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 11:23pm

Surf starved on the GC for sure with no real end in sight. Wanna know the not- so- sweet irony? Got a holiday not too far from your neck of the woods in the next week or so, so I might be able to tap into some kind of small south swell, but by the sounds of it, I might need a diving cage. Not sure what is worse..no swell or swell with sharks.

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Monday, 3 Oct 2016 at 9:36pm

Hey Ben i could probably short form your forcast notes for you. Qld will have no surf . Hahaha tuff times. Great reporting as always

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 4 Oct 2016 at 10:22am

Nada on the Sunny Coast today.


mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Tuesday, 4 Oct 2016 at 12:59pm

It really is like a lake today

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 4 Oct 2016 at 5:45pm

Introducing our new surfcam at Coolum! I'll set up a tour later.

https://www.swellnet.com/surfcams/coolum

dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Tuesday, 4 Oct 2016 at 7:40pm

Thanks Ben for those synoptic maps, gives a good picture to the words you're typing. Yeh surf's been crap, actually what surf. Haven't surfed since fridays lefthanders. They stoked me up pretty good but now I'm running low and need another fix. Anything will do 2foot whatever. Just something rideable, I'm not fussy.
P.S. your competitor (coastalwatch, there is no competition, yours shits all over that website) has posted a video of fridays sick NE swell. It looks like d'bah. looked pretty packed with shit hot surfers.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 6:22am

Decent little sth swell yesterday arvo, not around this morning,

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 8:06am

How big LD?

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 8:28am

Shark beach and shark beach sth, were 2ft with proper sth lines. Back to 0.5-1 at dawn.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 8:42am

Thanks mate. I did mention "a foot to two of lacklustre waves" an outside chance in your neck of the woods, but still - it's very interesting to see it eventuate (the surf originated from a W/SW fetch off southern NSW.. incredible!).

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 8:46am

Couple of baby waves sneaking through at Coolum but it's barely half a foot.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 11:15am

Couple of tiny lines appearing across the Sunny Coast. Hard to tell direction, probably straight east - I mentioned this swell in last week's notes (troughy pattern NE of New Zealand last Thurs/Fri) but it was so small as to not warrant further inclusion in this week's notes.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 1:23pm

Please can Sunday see some lumps in the ocean other than whales. If I hit F5 every 10 minutes will that make the report appear more quickly?

silentp's picture
silentp's picture
silentp Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 1:43pm

Awesome new cam Ben, just put one up a bit further north and that other surf website will be all but a distant memory.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 2:13pm

Will be live shortly :)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 5 Oct 2016 at 3:04pm

South swell starting to show nicely in Coffs now. Shame about the onshores. 

Not much in Yamba yet though.