Small south swell mid-late week; next week looks solid from the south

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 18th July)

Best Days: Wed/Thurs/Fri: chance for some fun waves at south swell magnets in Northern NSW with a series of small south swells. Friday is your best chance. Sun: small new south swell in Northern NSW. Mon/Tues: large S'ly swell across Northern NSW.

Recap: Plenty of decent waves about on Saturday with a combination of easing E’ly swell throughout most coasts (~3ft), and solid but also abating S’ly swell in Northern NSW. Some south facing beaches south of the border saw early 4-6ft sets with an easing trend through the day. On Sunday, both swell sources continued to ease but a new short range E/NE swell built across SE Qld and Northern NSW, thanks to a coastal trough off the Capricornia coast. This created 3-4ft waves on the Sunshine Coast and 3ft surf across the Gold and Tweed Coasts. Surf quality was generally bumpy under an onshore airstream but there were brief periods of lighter S’ly winds. Today we’ve seen all swell sources ease in size with generally slack winds across most coasts.


Lots of bods at the Superbank today chasing small leftovers from the weekend

This week (Tuesday July 19th - Friday 22nd July)

The synoptic charts make for pretty grim reading.

A large stationary high in the Northern Tasman Sea is acting as a barrier to Southern Ocean frontal systems, keeping our south swell window quiet for the foreseeable future. One reasonably strong system will nose into the lower Tasman Sea tomorrow but the high pressure ridge will maintain a zonal pattern (west-east) which will ensure poor alignment and a short duration within our swell window.

That being said, core wind speed are pretty strong within this front so the swell periods should be quite impressive, even if they’re only going to glance the coast. Exposed south swell magnets south of Byron Bay should pick up inconsistent sets from this source on Wednesday, somewhere in the 2ft to maybe 2-3ft range. I doubt we’ll see much action elsewhere. 

Northerly winds will freshen throughout the day too so you’ll have to tuck into a northern corner for the best waves. On the whole, not a great day to be scouting the coast for surf. 

Prior to this, Tuesday will see small residual energy from today (i.e. across all coasts) and light variable winds.

Thursday morning will be similar, with Wednesday’s S’ly swell facing rapidly across exposed Northern NSW coasts - the main difference will be a freshening NW breeze as a coastal trough pushed off the central/southern NSW region. No real swell is expected from this fetch; maybe some small northerly wind waves about exposed north-facing beaches on the Gold Coast and Far Northern NSW coast, but hardly worthwhile.

Late Thursday may herald the arrival of a very long period S’ly swell across Northern NSW south swell magnets, originating from a deep low tracking south of Tasmania on Tuesday and early Wednesday. Core wind speeds are likely to be upwards of 50kts, but more importantly, despite the still-unfavourable alignment within our swell window, this fetch will be working on a very active sea state generated by the previous front (responsible for Wednesday’s brief flush of south swell).

And, the models are really not resolving this fetch very well at all - they’re estimating just 0.4m of deepwater swell at 18 seconds across the Mid North Coast overnight Thursday into Friday. I think we’ll see much more size than this, but only at south swell magnets - possibly up to 3-4ft at times but very inconsistent. The Mid North Coast may see the arrival of this swell late Thursday afternoon, but most of the North Coast will see it peak in size through Friday morning. Very little of this swell will reach the coast north of the border.

Local winds on Friday look interesting with freshening NW winds as a strong front rears up from the south-west, so northern corners will be your best. 

Either way, it looks like a grim period for SE Qld but south swell magnets in Northern NSW have plenty of potential on Wednesday (maybe Thursday) and especially Friday with these new south swells. Proceed cautiously, but optimistically south of Byron Bay.

This weekend (Saturday 23rd July - Sunday 24th July)

A vigorous front is expected to cross the Tasmanian region on Friday. Ordinarily, this would herald the development of a fresh south swell a day or two later, but unfortunately the early stages of this pattern once again look too zonal to be of any benefit to us. 

A second front crossing the same region on Saturday looks a little better in alignment, but only marginally so. This should kick up slightly better swell prospects for Northern NSW on Sunday.

As such, Saturday is looking tiny across SE Qld, and knife-edge rideable in Northern NSW - Friday’s south swell will probably be on the way out (maybe some inconsistent 2ft+ sets at south swell magnets early morning), however we may see a minor pulse of south swell at these same locations during the day, from the first southern Tasman front. Winds will be NW so don’t expect much away from exposed northern corners. 

Sunday has more promise with the second south swell expected to push up the coast however there’s a mild risk of S/SW winds developing as the associated front drives a weak ridge across the coast. 

At this stage, 3ft+ sets are possible at south swell magnets in Northern NSW, but I’ll have a better idea on this on Wednesday. Either way it's not a good weekend for SE Qld surfers. 

Next week (Monday 25th July onwards)

The parent low to the weekend’s fronts looks like a beast on the current synoptics.

S/SE of Tasmania, it looks like it’ll stall for a day or two, extending a broad gale to storm force fetch through our far southern swell window. The core of the low could see 50-60kts of wind though it’s not yet clear where this will be aimed.

Therefore we’re looking at plenty of surf across the Northern NSW coast, building Monday and holding into Tuesday - early indications are for 6ft+ sets at south swell magnets at least, possibly more - though we’ll need to refine this as the model data tweaks itself over the coming days. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 18 Jul 2016 at 5:45pm

Hope you got your fix in SE Qld these past few days - not much ahead for the next week or more!

waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 12:50pm

Ugh - back to the gym for us Sunny coast lot :(

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 1:58pm

Looks like the sand is trying hard to sort itself out, at least on the beachies. A few small but very fun waves this morning.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 2:27pm

Yeah heard there were some very small but super fun peaky beachies on the Goldy too.

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 2:58pm

Yeah that's where I was. I reckon shoulder high, as the tide dropped the outside bank was working quite nicely. Some linking through to the inside. In some places the gutter looks like it is at least diminishing.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 2:26pm

Pretty much unsurfably small across the Tweed this morning. Looks slow and lacklustre in Coffs too. Great conditions though! And how's this balmy weather.. 24 degrees at the Seaway!

dromodreamer's picture
dromodreamer's picture
dromodreamer Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 4:48pm

taking up sailing....which reminds me I'm still getting stabbed for gym membership, spare a thought for those up and coming unsponsored shredders on the SC like the young fella ripping reverses at will. What does he do?

dromodreamer's picture
dromodreamer's picture
dromodreamer Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 4:59pm

some of the very limited supply of shapers might if your really lucky charge 300 instead of 800 a pop, but you just can't afford to crease boards. You get to the next level. Bam. I know this is a forecast thread and I don't mean to get political. (but since there is no waves).I just can't see too many world tour guy's coming from the SC and it's not through lack of talent...

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Tuesday, 19 Jul 2016 at 6:09pm

Costs Me around 250 buckaroos DD to make a nice board for Meself,material cost alone.Takes bloody ages too,$800 not to bad really, ask for higher density core/heavier glass sched should last longer. Hey, Mountain biking a good option for Sunny coast flatness!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 20 Jul 2016 at 10:14am

Small but very well defined lines across the Tweed Coast this morning. Looked to be out of the E, maybe E/NE? Not very big at all (1-2ft tops, not really breaking at most beaches) but super straight.


linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Wednesday, 20 Jul 2016 at 12:54pm

Maybe a small glimmer of hope for tomorrow?