Building east swell from Wednesday, building south swell from Thursday

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 11th July)

Best DaysWed: good beachies across most coasts with a building E'ly swell. Thurs/Fri/Sat: fun outer points in SE Qld, and good waves at protected spots/points in Northern NSW with a building S'ly and persistent E'ly swell. 

Recap: The weekend generally panned out as expected, with a strong combo of S/SE swells on Saturday and early being reinforced late Sunday by a stronger E/SE swell. Wave heights held around 4-5ft across Northern NSW for much of the weekend ahead of the kick, with smaller waves north of Byron. Across SE Qld, Saturday was initially very small due to the southerly swell direction (though south facing beaches picked up occasional 2-3ft sets) with Sunday offering a little more size as the swell direction swung more SE. Sunday’s late kick in E/SE swell persisted into the early hours of this morning though has been easing in size all day. Early 3ft sets across SE Qld are now smaller, with 4-5ft+ sets in Northern NSW now also easing. Early light offshore winds are now freshening from the north. 

This week (Tuesday July 12th - Friday July 15th)

We’ve got plenty of surf due throughout the forecast period. However, Tuesday will see a low point between swells as the current E/SE energy continues to fade. 

Conditions should be clean across the beach breaks though under freshening NW winds, possibly tending N/NW at times so you’ll have to aim for a northern corner for the best waves. There won’t be much more than a couple of feet of leftover surf across exposed beaches in Northern NSW with smaller surf in SE Qld - so unless you’re absolutely desperate I’d probably give it a miss.

The low pressure system responsible for our weekend’s waves moved just north of New Zealand on Sunday, and is now pushing into a productive swell generating phase (for Australia’s East Coast) as it tracks north of the swell shadow afforded by the North Island. 

Its alignment isn’t perfect however the models have actually reduced the clockwise traits suggested on Friday, which means we’ll probably see a slightly longer duration of long range E’ly swell from this source. The biggest waves will be found at northern most locations (such as the Sunshine Coast), and surf size will fall away as you head south of about Ballina - with possibly a more noticeable drop off in size south of some point along the Mid North Coast (due to the position of the fetch relative to NZ’s North Island). 

The first pulse of new swell is due to arrive late Tuesday - probably too late to be of any use to us - with Wednesday morning looking at the start of an upwards trend that’ll peak into the late afternoon, and then ebb and flow through Thursday and Friday. At this stage wave heights should peak around 3-4ft at most open beaches across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW (smaller to the south) but this isn’t expected to be a linear event so we’ll see periods of smaller 2-3ft surf at times. Expect smaller waves running down the SE Qld points too and across the Mid North Coast. And, it’ll be quite inconsistent at times too owing to the distant swell source. 

Therefore, with a couple of days of east swell on the cards you’ll have to work around the local winds. Freshening W’ly winds are expected on Wednesday with the building E’ly swell, but they’ll veer SW then S/SW across Northern NSW both Thursday and Friday as a ridge builds along the coast, behind a a vigorous series of fronts expected to pass through the southern Tasman Sea from Wednesday onwards. Winds may also tend more S/SE across SE Qld into the afternoons though this will be quite workable for the outer points. 

The latest model guidance has aligned the Tasman fronts in a slightly more zonal pattern (west-east) than indicated on Friday, which has slightly reduced its swell potential across Northern NSW (and a lot across SE Qld, though this doesn’t matter with the good east swell forecast). That being said, we are still looking at strong southerly swell for south facing beaches in Northern NSW; building through Thursday to 4-6ft and pushing 6ft+ at times on Friday, and maybe early Saturday. Beaches not open to the south will see a smaller (but still strong) combo of east and south swells. Protected locations and points will be the obvious pick under the southerly regime.

So, the upshot for this week is a (general) lay day on Tuesday, followed by some fun clean beaches on Wednesday then a strong combo of south and east swells for Thursday and Friday favouring the points and protected spots in Northern NSW, as well as the SE Qld outer points. 

This weekend (Saturday July 16th - Sunday July 17th)

The broader frontal progression looks like it’ll remain active through the weekend, though in a less favourable zonal pattern. This suggests easing S’ly swells all weekend, starting off with a pretty solid size range at first, probably somewhere near 5-6ft+ at south facing beaches south of Byron.

The mid-late week E’ly swell will have also reached a peak by Friday so we’re looking at a concurrent easing trend from this source too. SE Qld beaches should still see early 2-3ft+ sets on Saturday morning, becoming smaller during the day and into Sunday.

The only fly in the ointment at this stage is a modelled ridge across the entire region, thanks to a continental high pressure belt and an unseasonable tropical system in the Coral Sea.

I don’t have much faith in this guidance at the present time so I wouldn’t be too concerned about local conditions just yet - at worst there’ll be fun waves at the SE Qld outer points anyway, and winds will be lighter south of Byron so the protected locations and points should also be offering reasonable conditions. But I have a gut feeling that the wind outlook will improve over the coming days. 

And fortunately, local winds won’t be related to the weekend’s swell sources so the surf outlook shouldn’t change too much either. 

Next week (Monday July 18th onwards)

Looks like a break in this active synoptic pattern for next week with steadily easing size throughout the first half of next week and no major swell sources on the long term radar at this stage. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 2:54pm

Not a bad outlook for this time of the year at all. Seems to be some sand filling in the holes across the coast too... very promising for the coming weeks!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 2:59pm

Not sure the banks are going to be able to handle the 14 sec period swell but!!!

Perhaps some of the outer banks might stand up more....but again, tide will affect this somewhat too.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 3:12pm

Try some of the reef and reef/sand set ups at my old haunt, Don, if you can..... Perfect angle for lesser known fickle breaks..

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 8:35pm

I can't unfortunately SD.

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 4:15pm

I can't find a decent bank atm. Just mush burgers and close out didnt even paddle out. This morning again.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 8:32pm

There's a BOM deceptively powerful surf warning in place from tomorrow till Saturday. Overcall?

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 8:59pm

Yeah, I saw that as well. I kinda hope it's an overcall for tomorrow at least, I have a small wave bank in mind. Bring on the swell from then tho.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 9:04pm

"A deep low north of New Zealand will produce a relatively large, long-period ESE swell that will arrive along the southern Queensland coast during Tuesday and persist into Thursday."

Relatively large? I'm skeptical it'll arrive on Tuesday. And I'm skeptical it'll be large too.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 11 Jul 2016 at 11:50pm

Everything in perspective, Ben.... If you are a recreational fisho on the sunny coast, a long ese 4 foot swell could be considered "large"... It's these sort of inconsistent long swells that cause fatalities with bar crossings and amatuer rock fishos... That would be the intent of that statement.... Not really a statement for experienced surfers...

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 6:48am

true dat SD.

no sign of sand filling in here on the Points.
\
in fact that strong pulse from the ESE Sun/Mon looks to have straightened one of the few workable beachie banks.
Grim.

Not sure what you mean by this Ben: "not a bad outlook for this time of year at all"......it's July and my swell logs for this time of year indicate Tasman lows, cold fronts and if you're lucky small E or ESE pulses from lows that reform near the North Island.
So this is bang on for the seasonal trend.
If we had decent banks this would have been a very good winter so far, plenty of swell.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 8:37am

Was just an off the cuff comment Steve - ie not epic but not terrible either.

Looks like I may have been wrong with the timing of the arrival of the east swell - seems to be some small new lines pushing into the Goldy this morning (the low much have pushed just north of the NZ swell shadow a little earlier than I expected.. I thought it was mostly in the lee of the North Island on Sunday). I didn't pay too much attention with Tuesday's wind outlook being NNW, but overall the forecast still looks best from Wednesday onwards.

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 10:56am

Ben, your forecast for first light winds Wednesday on Sunny Coast still westerly tending SW?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 8:48am

yeah, I just fished an exposed ledge and there was still a fair bit of swell.

hard to discern what was leftover ESE and what was new E but there did seem to be some lines more from the E.

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 9:01am

Forecast on Monday night: "However, Tuesday will see a low point between swells as the current E/SE energy continues to fade...There won’t be much more than a couple of feet of leftover surf across exposed beaches in Northern NSW with smaller surf in SE Qld - so unless you’re absolutely desperate I’d probably give it a miss."

Tuesday's report -

"Plenty of swell with 2-3ft sets out of the east but a north-west wind is favouring the beaches and northern ends of the coast more than the points. Plenty of options with some north peaks splitting up the straight swell lines."

Go figure...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 10:58am

Yeah mate I got it wrong. Acknowledged above, a few hours ago.

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 1:19pm

Oh, sorry! I am not having a go! I can't read charts to save myself. Just noticed because I was toying with a drive down but threw it in because, on Saturday, 1-2ft at the north end wasn't finding a bank.

_benno's picture
_benno's picture
_benno Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 9:07am

Was a good 3ft at the open Sunny Coast beach I surfed this morning. Quality not great though with most closing out.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 12:07pm

For me, Wed arvo looks the pick. Wed morning may still have some wobble from the N/NW flow. Swell looks to peak Wed arvo, along with the W'ly winds cleaning up the wobble from the morning.

Bank's will be way more of the key issue IMO.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 11:45am

Wobble was the understatement this morning!!!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 4:22pm

Right on cue wobbles gone and swells on the up this arvo.

Strangely though it appears to be on the up along goldy and tweed rather than SC looking at wave buoy obs?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 1:05pm

I think today was def leftover E'ly swell, down here in Sydney anyway, 2-3ft dawn, 2ft midday and easing.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 12 Jul 2016 at 8:07pm

OT, have I done something or is the bit at the top of the page, usually right of the date, which shows the number of comments and when clicked takes you to comments, now gone?

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 12:37pm

Not something you've done Sprout, I can't see / don't have that option either anymore. There's a few other things that have changed recently as well, I think it's a flow on from some IT / software changes. Don't know if changes are permanent or swellnet are ironing out tweaks and bugs

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 1:16pm

Yep they're minor bugs that we're ironing out following a software/security patch update. Should have it all fixed in the next week or so.

New forecast notes up now.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 5:04pm

Great, thanks guys, it's a helpful little bit.

tommy ruff's picture
tommy ruff's picture
tommy ruff Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 2:08pm

Bom and weather channel as well. Usually always issue the deceptively powerful surf warning when period reaches near 15 seconds regardless of swell height

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 4:58pm

Don did you surf today?

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 13 Jul 2016 at 10:47pm

Nope. Couldn't.