Monday morning is the pick of the forecast period
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 17th June)
Best Days: Sat: early light winds and a fun combo of swells at open beaches, best suited to northern corners. Mon: get in early for a clean, peaky but easing NE tending E/NE swell. Tues/Wed: possibly some fun clean south swell at swell magnets south of Byron.
Recap: Strong but slowly easing trade swell with 3-5ft sets on Thursday across the Gold/Tweed coasts (slightly bigger on the Sunshine Coast, smaller south from Byron), down a foot or so today. A new southerly groundswell built across south facing beaches in Northern NSW today, though wave heights were at the bottom end of the forecast spectrum (very inconsistent 4ft sets). Winds have been mainly light and variable on Thursday, with a northerly trend kicking in today, only light in the north but moderate to fresh across the Mid North Coast.
This weekend (Saturday 18th - Sunday 19th)
Saturday is still a much better choice than Sunday, for all coasts.
We’ve got a developing coastal trough for Sunday that’s going to generate NE tending N/NE gales, and this will write off just about everywhere for the second half of the weekend. Sure, we’re going to see a sizeable short range swell build across the coast by late in the day but there won’t be many options to hide out of the wind.
However, prior to this we should see better conditions on Saturday. There’s still a risk of northerly winds developing - mainly across Northern NSW later in the morning, and most regions throughout the afternoon - but locations in the Far North and also across SE Qld should see a period of light variable winds before lunch. Across Northern NSW we should see N/NW winds, maybe even NW at times in the morning, and this should provide workable conditions across south facing beaches.
Wave heights are expected to ease a little more from today, with the current E’ly swell holding 3ft surf across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, down to 2ft+ across the Mid North Coast.
Today’s southerly swell is expected to peak overnight and will also ease throughout the day. Surf size will biggest at south facing beaches between Byron and Coffs, with very inconsistent sets around 3-4ft, before easing to 2ft+ by the afternoon. Expect smaller surf south and north of this region (and very little south swell across SE Qld beaches).
Sunday’s building NE windswell will become quite large by late in the day, with the biggest waves across the Mid North Coast - maybe some 4-6ft sets late afternoon, though heavily wind affected. Expect smaller surf across Far Northern NSW and SE Qld, but equally wet and windy conditions (and smaller waves early morning).
All in all, Sunday will be a day better spent away from the ocean, so aim for a morning surf on Saturday.
Next week (Monday 20th onwards)
Monday morning looks unreal for the beachies.
Winds are expected to swing westerly overnight Sunday, and maintain moderate to fresh strength. This should rapidly clean up the lumps and bumps from Sunday’s blow.
Unfortunately, the NE fetch developing along the eastern flank of the coastal trough will retreat quickly south-east through Sunday, which diminishes its swell generating potential. This is a shame as the synoptic setup is otherwise really promising.
As such, we are looking at a steady - possibly rapid - drop in size from the NE tending E/NE throughout Monday. Early morning will have the biggest waves, somewhere around 3-4ft at most open beaches in Northern NSW, possibly a little smaller across SE Qld, especially the Sunshine Coast.
By the afternoon we’ll be down to 2-3ft, maybe even smaller, depending on how fast the fetch retreats. But it should be very clean.
Tuesday and Wednesday are then looking at small residual E’ly swell, mainly 1-1.5ft across SE Qld, with a few bigger sets in the 2ft range from Byron south to Coffs, and possibly a few bigger sets from Coffs to Seal Rocks on Tuesday.
A deep low pressure system is expected to form at the bottom of the coastal trough on Monday, off the South Coast of NSW. This will instigate storm force S/SW thru’ SW winds in the south-western Tasman Sea, but they won’t be in a great position for Northern NSW - the fetch will be partially shadowed by the Hunter curve, and will also rotate steadily clockwise, aiming itself outside of the swell window.
We are likely to see two pulses of southerly swell push across Northern NSW on Tuesday and then again on Wednesday but I’m not confident of any major size away from reliable south swell magnets. At this stage I’ll ballpark some inconsistent 3ft+ sets at a handful of south facing beaches, but most beaches will probably dip out. Let’s take a closer look on Monday as we should have some satellite data to confirm wind strengths, directions and positions by this stage.
Otherwise, the longer term outlook looks a little quiet to finish next week with nothing major on the synoptic charts. A broad trough is expected to develop in our far eastern swell window next week (well south of Tahiti) and this could provide some small long range E’ly swell later next weekend or early the following week.
Otherwise, an amplifying upper level long wave trough is expected to push in from the west later in the week, and could very well be the trigger for a significant Tasman Low sometime next weekend or early in the following week. We’ll have more on that in Monday’s update.
Comments
Sorry for the delay fellas, up now.
Thanks Ben. Boy Oh Boy have we had some crackin' albeit slighly lumpy waves this week. It'll be good to have a little nanna rest next week.
What region are you in dangerous kook ?
PS loving your name.
You're not in Bali at the moment are you ? Of course I realise you're not, it was a bit of a private joke as I swear I surfed with someone of that same moniker this very morning.
Also with a few of his brothers and cousins.
PS That blue map at the bottom of the article says to me that beer sales are going to explode this weekend across NSW.
Haven't had a good beachie surf for a while, hopefully the banks play the game and cooperate.
Thanks Blowin, I spent "hours" coming up with that name. I surfed with a few this morning too although not my brothers, except through our common bond of our love of the ocean (insert finger in throat here). There are a few of us around. Not sure about the protocol of how much info I'm allowed to unleash on the internet world so at the risk of upsetting some people but hopefully not everybody I will go as far as to say that I'm in the far north coast region.
Nothing good ever came out of the far North coast.
Except for mangoes, avocados , a wonderful free spirit and joy de Vivre , crew that rip their beautiful points and sublime beachies, a tantalisingly exotic blend of mainland east coast oz and pacific island terrestrial perfection of habitat , a counter cultural vibe and a near complete disregard for the Protestant work ethic.
Except for that .....fuck all !
Love the FNCNSW.
But that's just me.
Going the Stack again Blowin? Your a Gem mate! I'm going to Bali late July! Wots wong wiv dat? Heard The Kiwis are stealing Avacado's again! Wots for Brecky?
Still 3ft sets on the Tweed Coast but the northerly is just starting to puff up. Bummer.
Did you get out there Ben?
Missed the morning glass, just came in from a fun Shorey session. Nothing special but worth a paddle.
I was around your trap of the woods Ben, first surf was glassy but lumpy on the high tide. Second session was pretty bloody good, some nice barrels going down with less water on the banks. The northerly was only light it actually made the crumbly lips so fun
Hardly any rain here yet on the Tweed, winds are gusty but it's a non-weather event thus far.
Pissed down from Brisbane to home this morning, aquaplaning all over the shop, worst I've driven in for a while. Constant showers and northerlies since 8ish.
Not much here on the Sunny Coast yet either Ben.
You still think we'll have the westerleys for sufficient time and strength tonight for the morning glass off?
Won't be a morning glass off. But should go westerly (WNW) overnight and clean it up for the early. I'll have a closer look at the obs in the next few hours.
Very keen to hear your opinion on this Ben. Looks like the the back of the rain front is stretching as far west as Dalby at the moment, I'm wondering if the westerly winds will follow behind that front? So as it heads out top sea that is when we will see the winds kick up.
They talked up this wheather event all week. Have had no rain in Brisbane at all.
Some nice steady rain here now. But definitely wouldn't be calling it a wheather event.
Still no major rain down here and winds are gusting ~20kts or so. As yet an ordinary prefrontal northerly flow.
Hopefully this short period NE windswell fills in some of those gutters with sand.
Yep the media hype on the back of the event two weeks ago is insane, and they're still calling it an East Coast Low for down here.
Rain but hardly any wind, no swell and moves off quick. Pretty much a non-event.
Sunshine Coast just now. Few 3-4ft lumpy chunks.
Already westerly at Charleville and Gayndah, and northwest at Roma and St George. So surface obs inland support the model forecasts for a westerly wind change (or maybe WNW) at the coast around midnight.
Surfcams suggest 4ft+ surf on dark (buoys suggests a lot more than that) so we're on track for a nice morning of waves.
Ok, now it's raining!
Just finished here.
pissing down here.
can't see much of value in tomorrow. banks are a mess, water is chocolate brown.
just hope the surf dies down quick so I can go jewfishing.
Brisbane copped some serious rain for about 2 hrs late this arvo/early this evening. Roads were a mess with gutters struggling to get rid of all the overflow. Left lane was pretty much a river on most roads.
Super fun, clean 3-4ft surf this morning. Lots of peaks up and down the beach I was surfing, well overhead at times.
Northerly started screwing things from about 8am.
Not everywhere! It's still pumping as long as you choose your location properly. Winds are NW at the Seaway so the beaches north from Burleigh would be unreal (southern Goldy wouldn't be much fun though).
Cape Byron AWS was reporting W/NW earlier but now it's light northerly; even so, wave faces at The Pass appear to be surprisingly clean, as this direction is devil wind. Yamba AWS is reporting straight NW. Backbeaches right across Northern NSW should be super fun.
problem is not wind and swell, it's bathymetry.
inshore sandbanks are gutted in this area and thus wave quality is low.
out of wind, swell and bathymetry I think bathymetry is by far the most important variable around here. Good sandbanks will turn just about anything into fun waves but without them it's a very hard slog.
Hows the sand fared on the Goldy and Sunny coasts?
Sand situation is pretty poor along the SC beachies bar a few locations from what ive seen, high tide is just about a write off everywhere ive checked due to the massive gutter running the lenghth of any straight stretch. Points still have sand which is a bonus i suppose but crowds are probably worse and except for those few days last week winds have been no good for them anyways.
Banks in Manly are screwed as well besides one crowded area. Gonna take a while to fix :/
Does the westerly help push sand back into those inshore gutters?
settled conditions with small, clean swells enable sand accretion from the storm bars and regular channels and rips to form, all of which aids in sandbar formation.
If there is free sand available in the dunal systems then offshore winds can push it into the nearshore surf zone where it can help infill. There was a piece put up here from Woonoona, I think....Craig will know about it.
Sometimes big S swells will move massive sand slugs into position, but they can just as easily rip it out as well.
Storm swells from the E to NE are worst for sandbar formation and raggedy short period swells like we had last week are next worst.
That big swell could easily be a season defining event ....and with another Tasman low looming it looks unlikely sandbar repair is going to happen anytime soon.
Here it is Steve. Damned Marram: Not all grass is good for your surfing
By the same token, I surfed some super fun inside reforms on the high tide on Saturday. Certainly wasn't epic but the deep gutter actually allowed shoulder high peaks to unload on the shorey. Haven't see anything like it in the last twelve months (wasn't happening at all beaches though, only a few).
Tnat being said, I'd prefer the unreal small/med wave banks the week prior to the big swell any day.
Good to hear a positive attitude always helps. Im still pretty gutted to be honest it can be a long time between drinks around my area as far as banks are concerned and the situation went from excellent to bleak but sounds like the whole east coast is having the same problem.
Looking at the positives is the storm bar situation we're currently enduring mean better bathymetry when (or if been the sunny coast) a large swell arrives?
there were actually one or two decent banks around here after the big swell event but that raggedy short/mid period E swell with onshore winds last week destroyed those.
Looks like more storminess is on the cards so we'll likely be surfing the appropriate depth contours of basalt boulder bottom points when conditions are suitable and grovelling in between.
Looks tricky at Burleigh. No-one out either which says a lot.
That being said, winds are now W/NW at the Seaway (gusting 29kts!) so the beachies should be quite good, banks pending.
Was fun for a bit on the northern end. Mainly shoulder high on the sets. But the tide running out is sucking the life out of it.
It's amazing the size expectations some people must have had for this morning.
A bloke in the carpark had a jetski all rigged up, ready to tackle Mavericks. And some guy's Facebook surf report says "The massive swell predictions haven't eventuated yet with 3ft set's coming through on the Southern points".
Whose massive swell predictions?
Few fun ones about early if you found a bank remnant. Half the size already. Might be a few sliders about once the tide changes. Cracking day though, even water required springy at best, wonder when winter will start.
I'm still in boardies! I wear a long sleeved vest when the wind's up otherwise it's still super warm in my books.
Been here just over twelve months now and haven't worn anything more than the vest. Divine!
Seeing as we're still talking about it heres a little clip from a regional favorite waves arent perfect but some nice barrels from an up and comer.
http://www.mysurf.tv/detail/videos/mysurf-exclusive/video/4928170385001/...
Ended up surfing the local which I bypassed this morn expecting it to be filthy from the river outflow. That was all moving south with the swell though - was a super fun surf in the end.
Really fun waves today. Banks on sunny coast northern beaches have changed a bit, but nowhere as much as it sounds further south (for good reason). Haven't surfed for 6 hours straight for a very long time. Was strange watching heaps of guys checking the surf out, then exit. Are we over-indulged from last 6 months?
It looked clean and green this morning. Peaky but not at all punchy
A bit disappointing until
I realised I was in the midle of an amputee and paraplegic surf day.
Complete with a sup rider with a hook arm
Jet ski assist for numerous prosthetic limbed surfers
And media crew on the each
Some of them were ripping! Fuck, good on 'em, hey?