Monday morning is the pick of the forecast period

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 17th June)

Best Days: Sat: early light winds and a fun combo of swells at open beaches, best suited to northern corners. Mon: get in early for a clean, peaky but easing NE tending E/NE swell. Tues/Wed: possibly some fun clean south swell at swell magnets south of Byron.

Recap: Strong but slowly easing trade swell with 3-5ft sets on Thursday across the Gold/Tweed coasts (slightly bigger on the Sunshine Coast, smaller south from Byron), down a foot or so today. A new southerly groundswell built across south facing beaches in Northern NSW today, though wave heights were at the bottom end of the forecast spectrum (very inconsistent 4ft sets). Winds have been mainly light and variable on Thursday, with a northerly trend kicking in today, only light in the north but moderate to fresh across the Mid North Coast. 

This weekend (Saturday 18th - Sunday 19th)

Saturday is still a much better choice than Sunday, for all coasts.

We’ve got a developing coastal trough for Sunday that’s going to generate NE tending N/NE gales, and this will write off just about everywhere for the second half of the weekend. Sure, we’re going to see a sizeable short range swell build across the coast by late in the day but there won’t be many options to hide out of the wind. 

However, prior to this we should see better conditions on Saturday. There’s still a risk of northerly winds developing - mainly across Northern NSW later in the morning, and most regions throughout the afternoon - but locations in the Far North and also across SE Qld should see a period of light variable winds before lunch. Across Northern NSW we should see N/NW winds, maybe even NW at times in the morning, and this should provide workable conditions across south facing beaches. 

Wave heights are expected to ease a little more from today, with the current E’ly swell holding 3ft surf across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, down to 2ft+ across the Mid North Coast.

Today’s southerly swell is expected to peak overnight and will also ease throughout the day. Surf size will biggest at south facing beaches between Byron and Coffs, with very inconsistent sets around 3-4ft, before easing to 2ft+ by the afternoon. Expect smaller surf south and north of this region (and very little south swell across SE Qld beaches). 

Sunday’s building NE windswell will become quite large by late in the day, with the biggest waves across the Mid North Coast - maybe some 4-6ft sets late afternoon, though heavily wind affected. Expect smaller surf across Far Northern NSW and SE Qld, but equally wet and windy conditions (and smaller waves early morning).

All in all, Sunday will be a day better spent away from the ocean, so aim for a morning surf on Saturday.

Next week (Monday 20th onwards)

Monday morning looks unreal for the beachies. 

Winds are expected to swing westerly overnight Sunday, and maintain moderate to fresh strength. This should rapidly clean up the lumps and bumps from Sunday’s blow.

Unfortunately, the NE fetch developing along the eastern flank of the coastal trough will retreat quickly south-east through Sunday, which diminishes its swell generating potential. This is a shame as the synoptic setup is otherwise really promising.

As such, we are looking at a steady - possibly rapid - drop in size from the NE tending E/NE throughout Monday. Early morning will have the biggest waves, somewhere around 3-4ft at most open beaches in Northern NSW, possibly a little smaller across SE Qld, especially the Sunshine Coast.

By the afternoon we’ll be down to 2-3ft, maybe even smaller, depending on how fast the fetch retreats. But it should be very clean.

Tuesday and Wednesday are then looking at small residual E’ly swell, mainly 1-1.5ft across SE Qld, with a few bigger sets in the 2ft range from Byron south to Coffs, and possibly a few bigger sets from Coffs to Seal Rocks on Tuesday.

A deep low pressure system is expected to form at the bottom of the coastal trough on Monday, off the South Coast of NSW. This will instigate storm force S/SW thru’ SW winds in the south-western Tasman Sea, but they won’t be in a great position for Northern NSW - the fetch will be partially shadowed by the Hunter curve, and will also rotate steadily clockwise, aiming itself outside of the swell window. 

We are likely to see two pulses of southerly swell push across Northern NSW on Tuesday and then again on Wednesday but I’m not confident of any major size away from reliable south swell magnets. At this stage I’ll ballpark some inconsistent 3ft+ sets at a handful of south facing beaches, but most beaches will probably dip out. Let’s take a closer look on Monday as we should have some satellite data to confirm wind strengths, directions and positions by this stage.  

Otherwise, the longer term outlook looks a little quiet to finish next week with nothing major on the synoptic charts. A broad trough is expected to develop in our far eastern swell window next week (well south of Tahiti) and this could provide some small long range E’ly swell later next weekend or early the following week. 

Otherwise, an amplifying upper level long wave trough is expected to push in from the west later in the week, and could very well be the trigger for a significant Tasman Low sometime next weekend or early in the following week. We’ll have more on that in Monday’s update.

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 17 Jun 2016 at 6:25pm

Sorry for the delay fellas, up now.

dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Friday, 17 Jun 2016 at 6:43pm

Thanks Ben. Boy Oh Boy have we had some crackin' albeit slighly lumpy waves this week. It'll be good to have a little nanna rest next week.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 17 Jun 2016 at 6:55pm

What region are you in dangerous kook ?

PS loving your name.

You're not in Bali at the moment are you ? Of course I realise you're not, it was a bit of a private joke as I swear I surfed with someone of that same moniker this very morning.

Also with a few of his brothers and cousins.

PS That blue map at the bottom of the article says to me that beer sales are going to explode this weekend across NSW.

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Friday, 17 Jun 2016 at 7:06pm

Haven't had a good beachie surf for a while, hopefully the banks play the game and cooperate.

dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Friday, 17 Jun 2016 at 8:06pm

Thanks Blowin, I spent "hours" coming up with that name. I surfed with a few this morning too although not my brothers, except through our common bond of our love of the ocean (insert finger in throat here). There are a few of us around. Not sure about the protocol of how much info I'm allowed to unleash on the internet world so at the risk of upsetting some people but hopefully not everybody I will go as far as to say that I'm in the far north coast region.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 17 Jun 2016 at 8:29pm

Nothing good ever came out of the far North coast.

Except for mangoes, avocados , a wonderful free spirit and joy de Vivre , crew that rip their beautiful points and sublime beachies, a tantalisingly exotic blend of mainland east coast oz and pacific island terrestrial perfection of habitat , a counter cultural vibe and a near complete disregard for the Protestant work ethic.

Except for that .....fuck all !

Love the FNCNSW.

But that's just me.

chickenlips's picture
chickenlips's picture
chickenlips Friday, 17 Jun 2016 at 8:38pm

Going the Stack again Blowin? Your a Gem mate! I'm going to Bali late July! Wots wong wiv dat? Heard The Kiwis are stealing Avacado's again! Wots for Brecky?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 18 Jun 2016 at 11:33am

Still 3ft sets on the Tweed Coast but the northerly is just starting to puff up. Bummer.

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Saturday, 18 Jun 2016 at 12:10pm

Did you get out there Ben?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 18 Jun 2016 at 12:38pm

Missed the morning glass, just came in from a fun Shorey session. Nothing special but worth a paddle.

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Saturday, 18 Jun 2016 at 3:00pm

I was around your trap of the woods Ben, first surf was glassy but lumpy on the high tide. Second session was pretty bloody good, some nice barrels going down with less water on the banks. The northerly was only light it actually made the crumbly lips so fun

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 12:16pm

Hardly any rain here yet on the Tweed, winds are gusty but it's a non-weather event thus far.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 12:35pm

Pissed down from Brisbane to home this morning, aquaplaning all over the shop, worst I've driven in for a while. Constant showers and northerlies since 8ish.

_benno's picture
_benno's picture
_benno Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 12:51pm

Not much here on the Sunny Coast yet either Ben.

You still think we'll have the westerleys for sufficient time and strength tonight for the morning glass off?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 2:07pm

Won't be a morning glass off. But should go westerly (WNW) overnight and clean it up for the early. I'll have a closer look at the obs in the next few hours.

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 4:51pm

Very keen to hear your opinion on this Ben. Looks like the the back of the rain front is stretching as far west as Dalby at the moment, I'm wondering if the westerly winds will follow behind that front? So as it heads out top sea that is when we will see the winds kick up.

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 1:05pm

They talked up this wheather event all week. Have had no rain in Brisbane at all.

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 2:05pm

Some nice steady rain here now. But definitely wouldn't be calling it a wheather event.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 2:09pm

Still no major rain down here and winds are gusting ~20kts or so. As yet an ordinary prefrontal northerly flow.

Hopefully this short period NE windswell fills in some of those gutters with sand.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 2:10pm

Yep the media hype on the back of the event two weeks ago is insane, and they're still calling it an East Coast Low for down here.

Rain but hardly any wind, no swell and moves off quick. Pretty much a non-event.

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 4:25pm

Sunshine Coast just now. Few 3-4ft lumpy chunks.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 5:22pm

Already westerly at Charleville and Gayndah, and northwest at Roma and St George. So surface obs inland support the model forecasts for a westerly wind change (or maybe WNW) at the coast around midnight. 

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 5:24pm

Surfcams suggest 4ft+ surf on dark (buoys suggests a lot more than that) so we're on track for a nice morning of waves. 

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 5:30pm

Ok, now it's raining!

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 6:50pm

Just finished here.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 7:01pm

pissing down here.

can't see much of value in tomorrow. banks are a mess, water is chocolate brown.

just hope the surf dies down quick so I can go jewfishing.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 19 Jun 2016 at 8:33pm

Brisbane copped some serious rain for about 2 hrs late this arvo/early this evening. Roads were a mess with gutters struggling to get rid of all the overflow. Left lane was pretty much a river on most roads.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 9:04am

Super fun, clean 3-4ft surf this morning. Lots of peaks up and down the beach I was surfing, well overhead at times.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 9:33am

Northerly started screwing things from about 8am.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 9:39am

Not everywhere! It's still pumping as long as you choose your location properly. Winds are NW at the Seaway so the beaches north from Burleigh would be unreal (southern Goldy wouldn't be much fun though).

Cape Byron AWS was reporting W/NW earlier but now it's light northerly; even so, wave faces at The Pass appear to be surprisingly clean, as this direction is devil wind. Yamba AWS is reporting straight NW. Backbeaches right across Northern NSW should be super fun.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 9:55am

problem is not wind and swell, it's bathymetry.

inshore sandbanks are gutted in this area and thus wave quality is low.

out of wind, swell and bathymetry I think bathymetry is by far the most important variable around here. Good sandbanks will turn just about anything into fun waves but without them it's a very hard slog.

Hows the sand fared on the Goldy and Sunny coasts?

rees0's picture
rees0's picture
rees0 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 10:27am

Sand situation is pretty poor along the SC beachies bar a few locations from what ive seen, high tide is just about a write off everywhere ive checked due to the massive gutter running the lenghth of any straight stretch. Points still have sand which is a bonus i suppose but crowds are probably worse and except for those few days last week winds have been no good for them anyways.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 10:33am

Banks in Manly are screwed as well besides one crowded area. Gonna take a while to fix :/

rees0's picture
rees0's picture
rees0 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 10:51am

Does the westerly help push sand back into those inshore gutters?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 10:57am

settled conditions with small, clean swells enable sand accretion from the storm bars and regular channels and rips to form, all of which aids in sandbar formation.

If there is free sand available in the dunal systems then offshore winds can push it into the nearshore surf zone where it can help infill. There was a piece put up here from Woonoona, I think....Craig will know about it.

Sometimes big S swells will move massive sand slugs into position, but they can just as easily rip it out as well.

Storm swells from the E to NE are worst for sandbar formation and raggedy short period swells like we had last week are next worst.
That big swell could easily be a season defining event ....and with another Tasman low looming it looks unlikely sandbar repair is going to happen anytime soon.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 11:09am
thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 10:59am

By the same token, I surfed some super fun inside reforms on the high tide on Saturday. Certainly wasn't epic but the deep gutter actually allowed shoulder high peaks to unload on the shorey. Haven't see anything like it in the last twelve months (wasn't happening at all beaches though, only a few).

Tnat being said, I'd prefer the unreal small/med wave banks the week prior to the big swell any day.

rees0's picture
rees0's picture
rees0 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 11:23am

Good to hear a positive attitude always helps. Im still pretty gutted to be honest it can be a long time between drinks around my area as far as banks are concerned and the situation went from excellent to bleak but sounds like the whole east coast is having the same problem.

Looking at the positives is the storm bar situation we're currently enduring mean better bathymetry when (or if been the sunny coast) a large swell arrives?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 11:14am

there were actually one or two decent banks around here after the big swell event but that raggedy short/mid period E swell with onshore winds last week destroyed those.

Looks like more storminess is on the cards so we'll likely be surfing the appropriate depth contours of basalt boulder bottom points when conditions are suitable and grovelling in between.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 11:22am

Looks tricky at Burleigh. No-one out either which says a lot.

That being said, winds are now W/NW at the Seaway (gusting 29kts!) so the beachies should be quite good, banks pending. 

mbl88's picture
mbl88's picture
mbl88 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 11:39am

Was fun for a bit on the northern end. Mainly shoulder high on the sets. But the tide running out is sucking the life out of it.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 11:30am

It's amazing the size expectations some people must have had for this morning.

A bloke in the carpark had a jetski all rigged up, ready to tackle Mavericks. And some guy's Facebook surf report says "The massive swell predictions haven't eventuated yet with 3ft set's coming through on the Southern points".

Whose massive swell predictions?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 12:12pm

Few fun ones about early if you found a bank remnant. Half the size already. Might be a few sliders about once the tide changes. Cracking day though, even water required springy at best, wonder when winter will start.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 12:20pm

I'm still in boardies! I wear a long sleeved vest when the wind's up otherwise it's still super warm in my books.

Been here just over twelve months now and haven't worn anything more than the vest. Divine!

rees0's picture
rees0's picture
rees0 Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 12:46pm

Seeing as we're still talking about it heres a little clip from a regional favorite waves arent perfect but some nice barrels from an up and comer.

http://www.mysurf.tv/detail/videos/mysurf-exclusive/video/4928170385001/...

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 1:36pm

Ended up surfing the local which I bypassed this morn expecting it to be filthy from the river outflow. That was all moving south with the swell though - was a super fun surf in the end.

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 2:55pm

Really fun waves today. Banks on sunny coast northern beaches have changed a bit, but nowhere as much as it sounds further south (for good reason). Haven't surfed for 6 hours straight for a very long time. Was strange watching heaps of guys checking the surf out, then exit. Are we over-indulged from last 6 months?

saltman's picture
saltman's picture
saltman Monday, 20 Jun 2016 at 4:18pm

It looked clean and green this morning. Peaky but not at all punchy
A bit disappointing until
I realised I was in the midle of an amputee and paraplegic surf day.
Complete with a sup rider with a hook arm
Jet ski assist for numerous prosthetic limbed surfers
And media crew on the each

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Tuesday, 21 Jun 2016 at 8:59am

Some of them were ripping! Fuck, good on 'em, hey?