Plenty of great waves this weekend, though easing slowly in size and consistency

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 2nd December)

Best DaysSat/Sun: Solid but inconsistent and easing E'ly and SE swells across most coasts, with moderate SW tending SE winds. Mon/Tues: light morning winds and smaller, easing swells. 

Recap: A building long range E’ly groundswell plus a secondary short range SE swell has provided plenty of waves across all coasts over the last two days. As expected, Thursday morning wasn’t much bigger than late Wednesday but we’ve seen a slow and steady upwards trend into today where exposed beaches are seeing set waves in and around the 4-5ft mark. Winds have been fresh and gusty from the S/SW tending S/SE, so the regional outer points have been the best option. 


Tweed Coast bomb this morning

This weekend (Saturday 5th December - Sunday 6th December)  

Southeast QLD: It’s a simple trend over the weekend - slowly easing E’ly groundswell, and more steadily easing short range SE swell.

We’re close to the peak of both swell events (which is a surprisingly long period of time - most of today, and maybe early tomorrow) however most noticeable throughout the weekend will be a decrease in the consistency of set waves. Which, in the case of the long range E’ly swell, is already quite an inconsistent event. 

The biggest sets will occur early Saturday morning with infrequent bombs somewhere between 3ft and maybe 5ft at exposed spots, but expect very long breaks for these waves - smaller SE energy in the 2-3ft range will generally pad out the bulk of the lineup at open locations. And as you head down the points and also inside sheltered corners, surf size will tail off accordingly - so keep this in mind when looking for somewhere to surf.

As for local winds, they’re looking very good for the points once again. Early SW winds tending S’ly then S/SE throughout the middle of the days, maybe even SE periods into the afternoons. If you’re aiming for an open beach break (which will be quite strong early Saturday), you’ll have to aim for the mornings. Otherwise, the outer points are your best bet.

Northern NSW: We can expect the same swell trend as SE Qld, except with a smaller degree of size from the short range SE swell as the fetch is aimed much better towards northern regions.

However the E’ly groundswell should still maintain plenty of strong sets anywhere between 3ft and maybe even 5ft early Saturday, before trending down throughout the day and into Sunday

Local winds look pretty good for most of the weekend, though the Far North (Ballina to the border) may become a little breezey from the S thru’ SE at times, especially Saturday. Elsewhere, we should see light variable winds and afternoon sea breezes. So make the most of the morning sessions. 

Next week (Monday 7th December - Friday 11th December)

No major swells for next week. Monday looks pretty good for a morning surf with light variable winds ahead of the afternoon sea breeze (likely out of the east). Most exposed beaches will probably be down to a very inconsistent 3ft by this time, with smaller waves across the semi-exposed/outer points, but there should be rideable options across most beach breaks.

On Tuesday it looks like we’ll return to a freshening NE flow about the Northern NSW coast - strongest across the Mid North Coast - so you’ll have to aim for an early surf to pick up the small inconsistent leftovers of east swell still pushing through. 

Freshening northerly winds are then expected Wednesday and Thursday, and the only new swell source is a minor southerly pulse due sometime Wednesday morning (Mid North Coast), reaching the Far North Coast mid-late afternoon. Sets of about 2-3ft are possible from this source at south swell magnets in Northern NSW, but it probably won’t produce much elsewhere, or in SE Qld. 

The long term outlook has a couple of regions I’ll be monitoring more closely on Monday: a small ridge building across the north-eastern Tasman Sea from later Tuesday thru’ Wednesday onwards (which may generate a small trade swell for SE Qld next weekend); a weak coastal trough off the NSW coast Thursday, which currently looks rather benign but could evolve into something more interesting with later model runs, and also a series of followup southerly groundswells from secondary fronts through the Southern Ocean/Lower Tasman Sea early next week (with their swells arriving later next week, once again exclusively to south facing beaches in Northern NSW).

Have a great weekend, see you on Monday. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 4 Dec 2015 at 5:58pm

Gotta give this surfcam screeny another run. What a lineup!

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 4 Dec 2015 at 6:50pm

Bank is in fine form, Ben!

Haydos's picture
Haydos's picture
Haydos Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 10:03am

What a fucking joke, looks like theres about 1000 people out today. Why even bother going out

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 10:28am

Don't know why everyone's complaining about crowds in surfing, everyone should be stoked - the big corporations, retailers, surf schools, Surfing Australia, WSL, they're all doing fine....
Pretty much everyone except the suckers down the bottom of the pile.
Come to think of it, I might go out and pay money for a shirt which advertises for a company which has a vested interest in seeing crowds like this.
Wonder if there'd be any value in forming a recreational surfer's association to at least be able to have a place at the table.
Thoughts?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Dec 2015 at 6:29am

"Wonder if there'd be any value in forming a recreational surfer's association to at least be able to have a place at the table."

This is the basis for the Gold Coast Surf Council (of which I have recently been appointed to the committee). To date, the Council's agenda has mainly been centered around coastal planning and management issues however the scope of the Councill will broaden over the coming year. 

Blackdog's picture
Blackdog's picture
Blackdog Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 4:30pm

Live your thoughts mate. Lead by example. There already is a recreational surfers association. Matter of fact there having a meeting right now! The meetings take place at a beach/reef near YOU! Get involved. Speak your mind in the line up. As for the company's (Like this one) which have a "vested interest " and the people that are clad with there shit, GIVEM NOTHING!! If you don't speak up in the line-up, You have no voice. Like the cunts that drop-in and snake all the time, if no one pulls them up they just keep doing it. or a busload of cunts that rock up at an already crowded break and proceed to paddle out. Its up to the locals!!! After all, it is what you make it to be. Was It was YOU that left your local break to the DOGS?......

Haydos's picture
Haydos's picture
Haydos Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 10:35am

I just don't understand how you can look at the mess of people at Snapper/Burleigh and think "Hmm, looks fun, think I'll head out for a few waves"

dangler's picture
dangler's picture
dangler Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 10:11pm

That's fair enough haydos. Most people who are quick to write off the Gold Coast crowds fit into two categories 1) those that are not able to appreciate the truly world class waves on offer 2) are kooks so they are unable to negotiate the crowded lineups and dredging sand barrels.

The other miss conception is that there are no locals and it is a free for all , which it may appear if you only surf here on the weekend or once a month, when in actual fact behind the rock at snapper and Burleigh have a full pecking order of locals who have done there time over many years or decades and while people floating through can get lucky, those that do not respect the locals are often brought swiftly into line.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 11:16am

Totally agree, I'd rather poke a mud crab up my arse with a burning stick.
Or, just go somewhere else and surf second-rate waves, happy in the knowledge that I'm still in the water, having a good time and not dealing with the crowds.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 11:47am

Well if you want to see something really funny, check out the Noosa cam.one million people out,and ......it's not even breaking!!!well maybe a little, but that's ridiculous.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 12:19pm

We'd better get used to it.
Australia has an unlimited population growth policy, all the businesses have a vested interest in more people surfing and there's a lobby out there that wants surfing in the Olympics.
And of course there ain't no more surf breaks being made.
Having said that, I surfed overhead point waves by myself yesterday, maybe it helps to readjust your expectations.

blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999 Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 3:14pm

While there aren't more waves being made but there are more waves being surfed. Certainly the usual Lid waves on the SC are getting more stand-ups these days.

In saying this I got a VERY well known SC spot with 2 guys out on Thursday...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 3:11pm
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 4:29pm

re: AndyM suggestion of a "recreational surfer's association" - having a "voice at the table" in various arenas would be great to give us recreational surfers an influence. I doubt however such an association can help with crowds in any meaningful way. Sure, such an association could lead some 'education' around crowd management, surfing waves within your ability, how to find less crowded options, etc ...

It's just that if we teach all these sheep how to find less crowded options, or influence them to go look even, well, we'll sort of be shitting in our own nests so to speak. So, in some way, what such an association will want to do is promote the 'surf with others', surfing is social, chat to people, make new friends angle ... not sure this association would get the seat at the table we may seek.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 5:15pm

Wingnut, no expectation of influencing crowds but as you've mentioned being a stakeholder in meetings about

- education eg. signage/literature at board rental sites or beaches
- sharks/nets/ baited drums
- zoning eg. jetskis/tow-ins, surfing reserves
- sand pumping

There's already guys out there like Andrew McKinnon, Wayne Deane, Nick Carroll and the like who are respected and can make themselves heard so I suppose it's just the thought of a more organised block to influence politicians and businesses.
"I surf and I vote!"
Pretty naff I know for a fringe dwelling surfer but it'd be good to have some reps at the table with the SLSC, fishos, councils etc.

As for finding less crowded options, it's amazing how the crowd drops when you have to walk more than 500m, or when it's raining. I reckon a lot of the young guys coming through are going to be pretty precious which could work in our favour!

Haydos's picture
Haydos's picture
Haydos Saturday, 5 Dec 2015 at 8:42pm
thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Dec 2015 at 6:41am

Still plenty of size this morning. How's this bomb at Moffs!
(smaller image cropped from main one)


thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Dec 2015 at 6:45am

Snapper looking a pretty picture too.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Dec 2015 at 7:39am

Still solid at The Pass too! Again, the small image is cropped from the bigger one.


shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Sunday, 6 Dec 2015 at 9:08am

This morning

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Sunday, 6 Dec 2015 at 9:09am

This morning

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Dec 2015 at 5:58pm

Still looking unreal at The Pass.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 7:24am

Still plenty of size this morning..

tonybarber's picture
tonybarber's picture
tonybarber Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 11:57am

Yep, fun times. And there is more....may have been predicted a little early.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 1:30pm

What a great run of swell! The local point - normally very crowded on weekends - was quite empty for the late session Sat and Sun - scored some unreal waves with not many crew around. On the road today with the team further north and got some fun winders as this swell event slowly continues to ease in size.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 2:48pm

good period of offshores on Sunday to get out at south straddie and remember what it was like to get barrelled and have water drip out your nose for 5 hrs after. Stoked, hope the season gathers momentum from here!!

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 4:06pm

Swell is hanging in there... another very fun session with not many guys out. Love the feeling of being exhausted from surfing

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 7 Dec 2015 at 5:27pm

Some nice waves at a certain northern NSW point. Wind wasn't perfect but with only three guys looking for the sets, that's ok.