Lots of southerly swell for the next week and a half

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 12th August)

Best Days: Late Thurs/Fri: fun mix of south swells in Northern NSW, with generally good conditions (only small in SE Qld). Sat/Sun: fun clean south swell(s) with OK conditions, best in the mornings. Small in SE Qld. Late Mon/Tues: chance for a small funky SE swell, biggest in Northern NSW but should be some good waves in SE Qld too. Tues thru' Fri and beyond: series of southerly swells. 

Recap: Monday’s south swell eased very slowly through Tuesday and we’ve even seen a few lingering sets persist into today across exposed beaches of the Mid North and North Coasts. Today also saw strengthening N’ly winds off the SE Qld coast that has generated a peaky NE windswell for the region. Set waves were in the 3ft range at exposed spots late this afternoon, and a north-west tending westerly change hit around 5pm which tried to briefly clean up conditions just on dark (see photo below, from the Tweed Coast around that time).

This week (August 13 - 14)

Unfortunately, this local windswell for SE Qld and Far Northern NSW isn’t going to hang around for very long. 

The westerly change pushing through now will essentially steer the swell-generating fetch well and truly away from the coast - not that it was favourably aligned to begin with anyway - and with twelve hours of darkness already setting in, the overnight easing trend will probably leave weave heights very small by Thursday morning, even at swell magnets. 

It’s possible that there’ll be a few leftover sets in the 1-1.5ft range at dawn, but they’ll probably disappear completely by mid-morning. Winds will be offshore though so conditions should be clean.

Otherwise, Thursday is looking at a building southerly swell from a south-west fetch that’s expected to develop off the Southern NSW coast early in the day. Right now, winds are straight westerly in the lee of the change, and because this is perpendicular to our coastline, there’s pretty much no chance we’ll see any surf at the coast from its current phase.

The building trend should start to kick in across the Mid North Coast from about late morning though, and build towards a late afternoon peak before holding steady for much of Friday. We may not see the upwards trend kick in across locations north of Yamba until mid-late afternoon, so expect small residual swells for the first half of the day here, and in SE Qld.

As for wave heights, the southerly swell direction will restrict the biggest waves to south facing beaches but we should see anywhere between 3ft and occasionally 5ft at swell magnets (more likely Friday morning, than any other time, perhaps very late Thursday south of Coffs if we’re lucky). Thursday’s winds will swing from the W to the SW, and it’ll be gusty in the south but there’ll be options about the coast. On Friday, we’re looking at light variable winds for the most part under a weak ridge of high pressure.

SE Qld won’t see much size from this southerly swell, due to the low period and poor alignment, but south swell magnets should still pick up some good waves on Friday thanks to the light winds. Most Gold and Sunshine Coast beaches will probably hold around 1-1.5ft but the outer points should see infrequent 2ft+ sets and south swell magnets should be bigger near 3ft+ at times. But on the balance, it’s probably worth keeping your size expectations low north of the border for Friday

This weekend (Aug 15 - 16)

There’s still nothing major on the cards for the weekend at this stage, however we should see OK waves both days across Northern NSW’s open beaches.

Friday’s south swell will ease slowly into Saturday and early offshore winds should maintain clean conditions at most beaches, with sets in the 3ft+ range at south facing beaches. It’ll be smaller elsewhere due to the swell direction. 

A weak front is expected to clip the coast during the afternoon, probably swinging winds around to a moderate to fresh southerly after lunch, so if you’re aiming to surf on Saturday make it early

In SE Qld, we’re looking at smaller surf with similar winds - so aim for the open swell magnets. Most Gold and Sunshine Coast beaches will be very small (1ft+ but well exposed beaches should have clean 2ft+ sets before the wind swings. 

On Sunday, we’re looking at a continuation of mixed southerly swell, including a small new pulse originating from a fetch trailing Saturday’s change. Wave heights will probably motor along in the same range as per Saturday, the only drama is that the models are maintaining a weak ridge across the coast which means we will probably see some form of southerly or south-easterly breeze develop. However, winds should be W/SW across most locations early. I’ll fine tune the details more closely on Friday. 

Next week (Aug 17 onwards)

The weak front expected to push into the lower Tasman Sea on Saturday is now modelled to form a new low off the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island on Sunday, and although it’s not expected to be aimed perfectly for the NSW coast, it should generate some decent sideband energy for the first half of next week

It’s too early to have confidence in this as a priority swell event but early indications are for late Monday or Tuesday to see clean 4-5ft sets at south facing beaches, with even the SE Qld region pulling in 2ft to almost 3ft sets (this scenario plays a little better for northern locations due to the fetch’s eastern position, which allows the swell energy to spread more efficiently into the coast north of Byron).  

Elsewhere, the middle part of next week (Tues thru’ Thurs) is expecting to see varying degrees of southerly swell, originating from several sources - a couple of distant, broad polar lows skirting the Southern Ocean, and a close range frontal passage through the lower Tasman Sea around Tuesday. At this stage there’s still not much confidence on how much size we’ll see so I’ll update the figures on Friday. 

Beyond this, a similar pattern is expected to maintain plenty of long period southerly swell for Northern NSW through the end of next week and next weekend. More on this in Friday’s update. 

Comments

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Wednesday, 12 Aug 2015 at 7:31pm

Yep, morning high tides with this weather pattern ... find a shorey, or make one ;)

Tides impact surf around here more than you think. And sand. Gotta have sand in the right places. It can be fickle. Gotta surf the tides / sand with these weather patterns. Sometimes, better to just go fishing ;)

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Wednesday, 12 Aug 2015 at 7:34pm

Are you steadfast here on the coast now Ben..,.....???? Living here!

Great photo by the way, would love to see a dog on the beach;)
Just to see the size comparison?
Maybe the IMP walking by, from " Game of Thrones" would be better.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 12 Aug 2015 at 8:21pm

Yeah, living on the Tweed and loving it here too.

Here's a few more pics to show the size. Was generally 2-3ft here - very full and fat on the outer bar (see first pic) but there were a few fun inside shories at the right spots (as per the photo in the main report, above).

Took an unusual shot of a small window between storm clouds too (see last photo).





Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 12 Aug 2015 at 8:53pm

Wow, last photo is insane, so trippy.

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Thursday, 13 Aug 2015 at 8:08pm

Not doing much at those 'dead trees' this morning, Ben:

But, just along the beach, couple of clicks by road, tad less on the sand ... mmm, nice little banks that work on the tide. Watch ya feet on the path, tends to wear ya feet a bit ;)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 12 Aug 2015 at 8:26pm

Winds are now light W/NW thru' NW everywhere. I reckon there'd be some super fun beachies right across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW right about now, and for the next 4-6 hours too. Shame about the overnight timing!

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Wednesday, 12 Aug 2015 at 9:13pm

Looking forward to your local forcasting come surfing season.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 13 Aug 2015 at 5:31am

Dropped like a hot pie overnight.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 13 Aug 2015 at 2:19pm

Looks like we're starting to see some small new lines of southerly swell across the Far North (Coffs cam has certainly picked up since this morning too). Only 1-2ft but looking nice and clean.


wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Thursday, 13 Aug 2015 at 7:55pm

Hahahaaa ... lovin' ya different camera angles of similar spots. You REALLY are in my neck of the woods. The headland to the north of the first pic above is usually my first point of check every morning. I live less abut 5 mins away from there ;)

FYI, Ben, the sand at the 'dead trees' spot and the one above, is very out of character for his time of year ... the rocks at both spots are usually not covered like that until late in Summer.

Look up my e-mail from my login, or contact me via the FFW site ... maybe catch up for a coffee, or beer?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 7:43am

Sounds good mate - I'll give you a bell.

Yeah its gonna take a while to adjust to all of the sand movements. Already seen massive changes just in the last few months. 

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 13 Aug 2015 at 3:49pm

Pumping up here this afternoon, biggest I've seen it all winter.

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Thursday, 13 Aug 2015 at 8:09pm

Tad bigger on the right tide:

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 7:44am

That looks bloody unreal.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 7:44am

The surfcam auto-snap is a little out of focus, but how's the (small) corduroy at The Pass!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 11:53am

A little full this morning, but lots of fun.






no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 6:08pm

That does look like a lot of fun on the right board. I saw that spot from the car on the way to work, wish I could have been out there!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 12:38pm

Geezus Ben, you might as well give GPS coords mate!!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 12:51pm

Erm, it ain't much of a secret spot Don. I have framed out identifying headlands though.

mundies's picture
mundies's picture
mundies Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 1:29pm

Feet up everyone....

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 14 Aug 2015 at 3:59pm

A few small peelers at Snapper this arvo.