Poor short term outlook, next week has some potential

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 18th March)

Best Days: No great days in the short term due to the small swells and tricky winds. Monday onwards should start to see some small waves across SE Qld, with mid-late week having the most potential.

Recap: Strong but steadily easing E/SE swell with light offshore winds and NE sea breezes on Tuesday. A further easing trend today with early light offshore winds and a range of lunchtime thru' afternoon winds from the northern quadrant (N/NE on the sunny Coast, but NW on the Goldy and N’ly down the Northern NSW coast).

This week (Mar 19 - 20)

We’re finally drawing to a close some six days of thoroughly decent easterly swell. Hopefully you’ve made the most of this as we’ve got a stint of small, average waves coming up across the Northern NSW and SE Qld regions.

There’ve been no real swell generating systems in our swell window for the last few days so small residual energy is expected for the rest of this week. And with fresh N/NW winds for the most part (except for a shallow S’ly change across the lower Mid North Coast on Thursday afternoon, and again late Friday), you’ll have to tuck into a sheltered northern corner.

Friday’s winds will be lighter than Thursday but either way the surf really won’t be worth working around. 

This weekend (Mar 21 - 22)

Small waves are expected to persist through the entire weekend, with variable conditions across the region.

A ridge will build in behind Friday’s southerly change through Saturday, but it looks like it won’t penetrate much further north than about Coffs Harbour or Yamba. As such variable winds are likely in Far Northern NSW and SE Qld on Saturday, with fresh SE winds to the south. 

In any case surf size will be only small in the north, best suited to the open beaches. The Mid North Coast - and possibly exposed parts of the North Coast - should see a small short range SE swell off the southern ridge but wave heights probably won’t top much more than 2-3ft at open beaches (mainly south facing) where it’ll also be rather bumpy.

Elsewhere, the trades are expected to muscle up south of New Caledonia on Saturday but I don’t think we’ll see an appreciable increase in new swell until Monday. However it’s possible that late Sunday could see a few small waves out of the east (in addition to the small leftover energy already present). At this stage I think it’s unlikely to generate much more than a couple of feet at best for locations between the Sunshine Coast and Ballina.

Next week (Mar 23 onwards)

A small building trade swell should provide peaky 2-3ft surf across the SE Qld coast around Monday and Tuesday, thanks to a broadening trade flow from the South Pacific through the southern Coral Sea over the weekend. No great size is expected from this source and wave heights will be smaller south of Yamba, but in the absence of anything else significant it’s the main focal point we have for now.

A small SE swell originally pegged for Monday (in previous forecasts) has been downgraded a tad, and pushed back to Tuesday. This swell will originate from a small cut-off low off the SW tip of New Zealand’s South Island over the weekend. Don't expect much more than an inconsistent 2ft at exposed beaches in Northern NSW.

Model guidance also shows a small troughy feature developing off the Far North Coast on Tuesday - right now it’s too small to be considered a useful swell source but future model runs may develop this into a more prominent system. Let’s wait and see what happens.

Otherwise, the primary area of interest in the long term is the Tropical South Pacific, which is expected to spawn a tropical low just east of Fiji from Friday through the weekend, potentially developing it into a Tropical Cyclone. 

This system looks like it’ll be part of a broadening but ultimately stationary fetch in our far NE swell window, with the resulting E’ly swell likely to start influencing our coast mid-late next week (i.e. from about Tuesday afternoon or Wednesday onwards). However, the main energy from this swell probably won’t arrive until the end of the week - holding through into the weekend.

Current estimates ave the initial mid-week trade swell worth about 2-3ft at most open beaches, with the long range E’ly groundswell possibly pushing another foot above this - but we’ll have to wait and see how it develops.  

As it is, this is already a small upgrade since Monday so I’ll revise these notes on Friday - hopefully with a further increase on the cards! 

Comments

samgreen's picture
samgreen's picture
samgreen Wednesday, 18 Mar 2015 at 10:44pm

Planning a trip down to a little spot between Yamba and Coffs from Friday to Monday.. Sunday looks fun for a few backbeaches with that small South swell and light/variable winds early but Saturday looks tricky to find somewhere with any swell not copping the wind.. Is it only a small South swell in the mix Saturday? And while winds are supposed to be moderate South or South East down near coffs it could be lighter closer to yamba? Thanks for any advice or info!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 5:49am

Latest model data has nudged the ridge a little further north for Saturday (ie may reach Ballina or Byron, but probably not the border), so fresh SE winds are likely in Yamba/Coffs on Saturday.

However this ridge should break down into Sunday allowing for light variable winds in most areas on Sunday.. but with mainly small swells.

The ridge has muscled up a tad in the latest model data too so we may see Saturday's short range SE swell (2-3ft) persisting across much of Northern NSW into Sunday. Let's wait and see how tomorrow's guidance pans out.

samgreen's picture
samgreen's picture
samgreen Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 8:54am

Awesome thanks Ben. I'm that case the Saturday swell may be just big enough then to be rideable out of the wind! At least Sunday Monday look fun for the backies

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 6:51pm

Well..... It's been a little over a year since I first gave you the shits, Don, with my inaugural 13 day hail mary ;)....
As they say on iron Chef, "if my memory serves me correctly" (lol) 23rd/24th/25th march rings a bell.... Long distance clean 5 foot swell.....
As fate would have it, it looks like we are in the running for an anniversary swell!!!!! Maybe a day or two difference, but jeez, very similar to last march.... This years late march td seems to be a bit closer than 2014, but with a similar cradling high....
So, if this don and dawg anniversary swell does rock up, I'll lock in 2016 march 20 -26 for a shindig ;p

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 9:45pm

So you calling 5ft from this one Sheepy? I can't see it myself at present.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 10:05pm

Lucky to get much above 3ft at best now.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 10:52pm

Was it ever forecast to be much more than 3ft Craig?

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 20 Mar 2015 at 9:03am

Craig/Don... My main point was a meteorological similarity... At this stage I can't see 5 foot..... But I can see a nice 3 foot, maybe 3 to 4 foot if we are lucky, at 10 seconds or so, on the 25th late......All depends on whether the fetch can muster 30k...... Looks like a nice long fetch too (21st/22nd)....

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 20 Mar 2015 at 9:10am

One thing this fetch has going for it is longevity (time) and length. That certainly makes up for the lower wind speeds.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 20 Mar 2015 at 9:52am

Not much video footage of Pam yet........... There's the odd bit floating around...... Insane Waaay overhead pits at TOS.... But that's it??????

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Mar 2015 at 10:30am

Well earlier in the week it was looking better so I would of said inconsistent 3ft to occ 4ft, but that was optimistic.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 20 Mar 2015 at 11:14am

Bom fiji and metvuw still looking at 25 to 30k in the 170w -180 x 20 -30s region ...... Yeah, duration looks good, don..... Second little system further out wont hurt..... Time will tell.....

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 7:14pm

Hey mate you predicting a swell on the cards ?? Hope your rite its not looking to flash.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 7:48pm

Ben's onto it, cyl... From his report above;

"Otherwise, the primary area of interest in the long term is the Tropical South Pacific, which is expected to spawn a tropical low just east of Fiji from Friday through the weekend, potentially developing it into a Tropical Cyclone."

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Thursday, 19 Mar 2015 at 8:17pm

yeah short term not looking great.