Long term outlook looks solid

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 16th January)

Best Days: Sat: small waves all weekend but winds will be light in the mornings. Mon/Tues: fun south swell at south facing beaches in Northern NSW (local winds pending). Tues/Wed: building short range trade swell in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW. Later Wed onwards: chance for a solid E'ly groundswell.

Recap: Small fun beachies (leftover east swell) across some regions on Thursday as overnight N’ly winds gave way to a morning nor’wester ahead of a southerly afternoon breeze. This same swell persisted into today but a new S’ly groundswell has built along south facing beaches of Northern NSW, with good 3ft+ sets on offer this afternoon. Winds have been reasonable favourable too.

This weekend (Jan 17 - 19)

No major surf expected this weekend.

We’re looking at a small combo of swells, the most broad reaching being some persistent E’ly energy, of which a minor pulse is likely through Saturday. This will originate from a mid-week low north of New Zealand but probably won’t provide much more than a very inconsistent 2ft wave at exposed beaches. In between it's going to be very small indeed.

Today’s S’ly groundswell will fade rapidly during Saturday but the dawn patrol should offer a few 2ft+ waves at exposed south swell magnets. Expect early light winds and moderate afternoon NE sea breezes. 

Sunday doesn’t look much different to Saturday on the surface, except we may see a late pulse of small S’ly groundswell across the Mid North Coast mid-late afternoon. This swell has had a minor downgrade since Wednesday, due to a few small changes in the particulars of a strong frontal progression below Tasmania today and tomorrow. 

Whilst still very strong, the fetch looks like it’ll be a little more zonal (west-east aligned) than Wednesday’s models suggested, which will restrict surf size along the East Coast. Still, we should see an upwards trend throughout the afternoon, and south facing beaches should see late 2ft sets in and amongst the pre-existing small, inconsistent E’ly swell. Anticipate similar winds too: light variable early, afternoon NE sea breezes.

Next week (Jan 20 onwards)

The weekend’s frontal progression is still quite a beauty despite being a little less favourably aligned for Northern NSW (heading to New Zealand? Fiji? Tonga? Samoa? You’re gonna score tidy waves).

Nevertheless, we will see a reasonable level of direct south swell occupying the water through Monday and Tuesday. It’ll pulse irregularly throughout this time, thanks to several swell sources all contributing energy of differing size and periods (meaning the overlapping trains are hard to  distinguish within the model data) but we should see peak wave heights at south facing beaches in the 2-3ft range - but much smaller at remaining beaches. The upper end of this size range is more likely on Tuesday than Monday. And don’t expect any of this south swell to reach SE Qld.

However, local winds are looking a little suss during this time as a coastal trough begins to develop. There’s likely to be periods of variable winds these days but the models are suggesting onshore winds in general. 

Otherwise, the long term focus is is in the Coral Sea where we’re expecting some significant developments throughout the week as a broad Tropical Low develops north-west of New Caledonia and tracks southwards. The timing of this has been pushed back a few days since Wednesday’s model runs and I’d expect a few more changes to be made over the weekend (I’ll update in the comments below). 

Regardless, the most likely scenario at this stage is for a building trade swell in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW from about Tuesday onwards, starting off small but reaching a decent size through the late afternoon and into Wednesday.

Around the same time, the southward tracking Tropical Low is expected to ridge against a broad high pressure system in the Tasman, strengthening a broad easterly fetch within Queensland’s ideal east swell window - just far enough off the coast so that local winds are not too strong, but not too far away so that we don’t lose a lot of size to swell decay (which is a function of a longer travel time). Furthermore, some of the models suggest a slight retrograde back to the coast. 

If this happens - and I’m pretty confident we’ll see something worthwhile materialise this time ‘round - we should be looking at a strong, extended E’ly swell through the second half of the week in the 6ft+ range or bigger across exposed regions. 

Let’s check back on Monday to see how the model guidance is presenting itself. Until then have a great weekend!

Comments

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 16 Jan 2015 at 7:24pm

I have doubts really,for the "thats the stuff",considering the recent trend of weak highs to the Sth.i know Bens firmly in the optimistic camp,I see downgrades coming our way.Please let Me be wrong,I just can't see it.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Friday, 16 Jan 2015 at 8:51pm

No swell coming with that attitude hahaha

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 16 Jan 2015 at 9:32pm

Looks like more weak cradling highs and concomitant mobile lows and weak pressure gradients.
Maybe, maybe a one day wonder if we are lucky.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 17 Jan 2015 at 12:18pm

concomitant...... A salubrious recumbentibus to any challengers willing to take on free ride in scrabble....

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Saturday, 17 Jan 2015 at 11:31pm

Oath. I had to look up http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Greek_and_Latin_roots_in_English

I don't think I've ever come across concomitant or intercurrent... But intermittent and concurrent many a time. "mit- thread"... Trough lines are fairly thready.

Fuck there's a lot of spot checking to do here, gimme punchy beachies any day!

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Saturday, 17 Jan 2015 at 11:46pm

Wait a second... Grammatically, wouldn't the salubrious recumbentibus belong to/be given out by Padre76, as the challenger would not be feeling uplifted!

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Friday, 16 Jan 2015 at 10:04pm

I withdraw my comment. Sounds like the tyre is on the deflate already.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Saturday, 17 Jan 2015 at 9:14am

Where does WAms collected all the data for swell prediction?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 17 Jan 2015 at 9:24am

The WAMS are a graphical product from the latest run of the Wavewatch III wave prediction model. We run it in-house four times per day, using the latest input data from the GFS atmospheric model.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Saturday, 17 Jan 2015 at 11:38am

Thanks.great work forecasting the report who would off thought there is that much details.

chalkie's picture
chalkie's picture
chalkie Sunday, 18 Jan 2015 at 9:24am

I don't know if it's just me that's noticing it, but there seems to be some major hype for swells that never even come close to materialising on this site of late. Now I don't know much about running a website, but I have noticed some pretty big companies advertising on here of late. Lets just say a week of 6ft ENE swell has been called, that for sure has to increase the traffic to your website tenfold, people refreshing their browser around forecast day to 'pencil in their flexi time', thus increasing the money hungry jacks pay you guys. Still stoked on the website tho, and i do understand how complex swells have been to forecast of late, but for once i'd love to see a swell upgraded, rather than downgraded significantly. Keen to see how this east swell for next week turns out!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 18 Jan 2015 at 9:33am

Hyping swells doesn't increase our traffic, I'll tell ya right now.

islandman's picture
islandman's picture
islandman Sunday, 18 Jan 2015 at 9:55am

yeah cmon thermalben you have god on speeddial dont you and hughey? have a stern word to them about not delivering please! i know jack about swell charts but have learned alot more from this site and as far as i can remember your swell reports have been for the most part pretty dam good . keep up the good work cheers

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Sunday, 18 Jan 2015 at 12:17pm

Free ride. Next low looks more promising now.... Local winds could be an issue.....

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 18 Jan 2015 at 12:42pm

Low looks fine. Still a weak mobile cradling high with inland troughiness lending a strong northerly bias to synoptic winds.
I see a very good day somewhere and I've got it pencilled in.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Sunday, 18 Jan 2015 at 1:38pm

I know where I'd be surfing.........

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 19 Jan 2015 at 4:45pm

Hmmmm.... The jellyfish shitwind.....