Great weekend for the points

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 12th December)

Best Days: Sat/Sun: strong SE swell with great waves across semi-exposed points. Mon: smaller, easing swell with good winds early. Late Tues/Wed: another shot of E/SE swell but winds are tricky.

Recap: Small residual swells on Thursday with a wide range in conditions - light winds tending moderate N/NE in SE Qld, fresh and gusty N’lies in Northern NSW, and light N’lies with a gusty S’ly early arvo change along the Mid North Coast. Despite the much-earlier-than-expected arrival of the southerly change, wave heights have built somewhat reasonably inline with forecast expectations - we’re now seeing solid 6ft+ sets at exposed beaches in Northern NSW, but surf size is much smaller in SE Qld (mainly due to the initial S’ly direction) - there are 3ft+ sets at D’Bah, but it’s only 1-2ft on the points and as yet the Sunny Coast seems to be very small too, just a couple of feet tops.

This weekend (Dec 13th - 14th)

It’s no surprise that surf size in SE Qld isn’t very big right now. Most of the swell we’re currently seeing is short range southerly energy, as the primary fetch hasn’t quite moved into southern Queensland’s swell window just yet.

It is however doing this right now so we should see an upwards trend overnight, with most of Saturday expected to display strong SE swells across all regions.

Wave heights will vary in size depending on exposure, and with gusty S/SE winds on hand the weekend’s waves will mainly favour protected points. Exposed beaches in Northern NSW are looking at choppy 6ft+ surf through much of Saturday, but semi-exposed points should pull in a reasonable amount of size, somewhere in the 4-6ft range (protected points will be two or three feet smaller than this).

North of Byron, surf size will be smaller, up to a wind affected 5-6ft at exposed beaches but mainly 3-4ft+ across the more popular semi-exposed points of SE Qld (that'll be handling the wind better). If you’re considering the Noosa region, keep your expectations in check - the weekend's swell direction will only favour the outer bays, and it’ll be tiny across the inner points. 

Surf size will ease slowly through Sunday, probably in the order of a foot or two during the day, but local winds will also throttle back - in fact we should see localised areas of light SW winds (mainly the southern Gold Coast and parts of Northern NSW) in the morning. So despite the smaller surf there should be a few more options to pick and choose from. Looking very good overall, especially after a couple of months of annoying northerlies!

Next week (Dec 15th - 19th)

Monday looks pretty good too. We’re looking at light offshore winds and weak afternoon sea breezes as the Tasman Low retreats to the east, relaxing the pressure gradient across the coastal margin. Surf size will continue a slow downwards trend but exposed beaches in Northern NSW should still see early 3-4ft+ sets. It’ll be smaller in SE Qld, around 3ft+ at open beaches with inconsistent 2ft+ sets across semi-exposed points.

On Tuesday the synoptic flow will gradually swing to the north (nooooo!) as a southerly change advances along the southern NSW coast. Early morning should see light variable conditions with clean residual waves at exposed beaches, and only the Lower Mid North Coast will see any strength in the afternoon NE airstream. So, there should be fun waves around for the most part.

Late in the day, we may see the arrival of a secondary pulse of swell from the same Tasman Low generating this current energy. Except, it will have originated from a mild intensification off the West Coast of New Zealand’s North Island through Sunday and Monday. Surf size won’t be large from this source - perhaps some inconsistent 3ft to almost 4ft sets at exposed beaches in Northern NSW, with smaller 2ft to perhaps 3ft waves at exposed beaches in SE Qld.

This timing is a little tricky to have confidence in, for two reasons. Firstly, it’s likely to reach a peak overnight Tuesday (before easing through Wednesday) and secondly, the mid-week gusty southerly change will create tricky conditions at exposed beaches on Wednesday (there probably won’t be enough size or consistency for anything amazing across the semi-exposed points than enjoy fresh southerlies).

In any case, we’ll take a closer look at the data on Monday to see how this fetch fares over the weekend, and whether we’ll see a window of opportunity late Tuesday (with the nor’easter) or early Wednesday (with fresh southerlies).

Wednesday’s southerly change will whip up a short lived but probably punchy south swell for south facing beaches in Northern NSW during the afternoon. Otherwise, the rest of the week looks like seeing easing swells with clean conditions (Thursday) ahead of a complex troughy pattern advancing from the south later Friday with another possible gusty southerly change that will probably influence next weekend's surf potential too. More on that in Monday’s update.

Comments

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 6:56am

' If you’re considering the Noosa region, keep your expectations in check - the weekend's swell direction will only favour the outer bays, and it’ll be tiny across the inner points. 'Spot on with that,tragic conditions up here this morning.Actually tiny at the outer Points to!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 7:44am

Thanks for the heads up SM. A few crew at Snapper this morning:


spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 8:46am

Wow,now thats a crowd!Hopefully we,ll get a touch more East in the swell as the day goes on,and maybe get some of that action up here.

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 9:04am

Oh man that is crazy and very depressing, take away the crowd and it would be fun, but reality is its only two foot and pretty soft looking, even if you got a wave, I'm sure you would be dropped in on.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 9:16am

And this my friends is why I don't bother surfing points or on weekends anymore. Fecking joke.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 2:42pm

Holy crap!!!!!!! That crowd's a joke, but no one's laughing....... Yeah, give me a 4 foot ene sneaky beachbreak swell any day!!!!!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 9:29am

Ten minutes ago my missus bought a ticket in a Boys Town raffle to win a beachfront unit straight in front of that shitfight. Safe to say we will be selling it as soon as we win.
Keep it a year to dodge capital gains actually , then gone, gone, gone.
If you're interested we'll be selling it for $2.65M.

wally's picture
wally's picture
wally Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 10:10am

Snapper is nuts. At some point, when the crowd was less than the above, you would think that new arrivals would just stop paddling out. But no, there is always a steady stream of hopeful arrivals walking out into the water.
I think a lot of the appeal of Snapper, beyond its quality, is that it is mostly a relatively easy, technically undemanding, low risk wave. Clearly people will put up with a hell of a lot to surf in those conditions.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 11:51am

I have a mate who lives up that way who says he always manages to have fun. If you are patient you'll get a wave and most of the time you get to surf all or most of it without a drop in.

mk1's picture
mk1's picture
mk1 Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 10:12pm

I had 2 surfs there today. It was definitely more crowded than normal and a little undersized to spread everyone around but I got some fun ones. Game face, head down, mind the big plugs of people, take what you can get and keep moving. Much better to sneak around some alternative spots when everyone is at snapper but the winds were really strong today. Still better than the pass any day of the week for crowds x quality.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 12:15pm

2% maybe..!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 1:12pm

Actually had a fun surf out there last time I was on the Goldy.

surfer1's picture
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surfer1 Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 2:04pm

Weekend, School/Christmas holiday crowds at snapper are not fun, especially not in todays conditions if we had that August swell in the water it would be bearable.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Saturday, 13 Dec 2014 at 2:55pm

Ben.... That next low looks like it crossed the coast near Gladstone around lunchtime....
Hold the phone.....

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 9:42am

Ben. The above low I spoke about last week... Yes, doesn't look like bombing.. But you don't think it was worth a mention? It should still amalgamate with original low.....
Here's it's position at 0400 today;
http://www.cabooltureweather.net/GFSInteractive.asp?units=C

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 9:58am

Not sure which low you're talking about. I've been discussing a secondary intensification off the West Coast of NZ's North Island (around this time) for a week now - is that the same system?

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 11:44am

No. the one above (ascat)... Moved off the coast on Sat....
http://www.bom.gov.au/australia/charts/synoptic_col.shtml

Click back to -2 days 00 ......... Follow from there...

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 12:01pm

That system in its own right isn't a swell generator (not now, anyway).

Sure, it may enhance the NZ low at some point  thru' Tuesday, but with a dynamic weather system within our immediate swell window late last week - and a wide range in model guidance throughout the entire forecast period last week - it hasn't been worth too much additional investigation as yet.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 12:41pm

Fair enough... Well agree to disagree on that one (not the first time lol)..... I think it's more the other way around... The NZ low will enhance this one.... The nz low will retro into this system..... I wrote about it in "pumping waves ahead".... I was out re' timing.. Thought it may have happened yesterday.. Was hoping for possible bomb closer to coast..... Nonetheless, amalgamation is occurring today, and this second system is the dominant system, all of which was fairly evident last week... Cheers.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 12:54pm

All this banter about this and that low off the East Coast or off NZ is superfluous.

What most people simply want to know, is where is the bulk of the swell going to come from and how big? and what are the local winds when it arrives.

And at this stage in time the swell will be coming from the fetch west of New Zealand's North Island and winds will back right off as that small low off the SE Qld coast moves east.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 1:42pm

Gday, craig.. Banter... Yeah well that's what these forecast threads are all about..... Banter... Why have a thread at all......Now when I am not technically correct (quite often lol), you guys ( oh and don... and FR... :p) are the first to pull me up..... hsig comes to mind...... So I'm just pointing out that it isn't the intensification of the first low (NZ), but in fact the second low that will produce swell this week.... It was evident on Friday....In fact, You, Don and I spoke about this.... The second low didn't bomb. My guess was wrong.... Don may well be wrong with his barely 4 foot on south facing beaches too (for tues/wed)...
It's all good..... Banter is good......
ps - some models have this second small low dropping to 992 by tomorrow...

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 2:00pm

Yes, yes, but sometimes the banter just seems to go too far or on for too long in certain areas where the significance is minimal.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 2:33pm

The current low/fetch off NZ is producing the SE swell that arrives late Tuesday evening and more so into Wednesday morning. SD's second low squeezes up against the high over NZ longitudes on Tuesday night, but it's fetch is aimed at SD's countryside (with the swell arriving down there around Friday), with little to nothing from this system/fetch for SE Qld, Nth NSW.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 2:39pm

Yes indeed.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 3:42pm

So don and craig... You're telling me that this low currently reinvigorating a fetch pointed at nnsw tonight will not have any affect ?
Cmon guys..... Seriously....

A picture paints a thousand words....... Craig.... You've changed man...... It used to be about the music..... ;p

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 3:52pm

I'm all about the music, and yes the fetch is looking great and will remain so until Wednesday but you were calling large surf for Tuesday and Wednesday. Don and I agreed that this was 6ft or above surf, that ain't gonna happen sorry Sheepy.

Great run of waves but!

Probably pulsing back to that 4-5ft range near dark tomorrow on the North Coast and easing ever so slowly early Wednesday from 3-5ft ahead of another 3ft+ pulse Friday or so. So it's gone the way of EC, and what I forecast last week sometime in the comments, can't remember when.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:02pm

4-5ft by dark tomorrow afternoon? Not according to your WAMS Craig, hence your comment about EC I presume?

Although SD's images above are all about GFS, which is what your WAMS are based on.

SD, you can't just look at one image. You have to look at the moving images to get an appreciation of how long the fetch is in the same spot. For me, your low is moving away from the fetch it creates today and tomorrow, but does retrograde throughout Wednesday, but this fetch is then aimed at locations south of here....straight at your apple isle, hence I don't think we'll get anything noteworthy from this system come Friday. 2ft tops is what I'm seeing and inconsistent at that on Friday up here (south of the border).

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:11pm

No, EC last week forecast the fetch west of New Zealand to be stronger than GFS and that's happened.

Charts show a new SE pulse arriving tomorrow evening on the North Coast, will prob show very late on the Mid North Coast. Peaks overnight and eases back through Wednesday though.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:18pm

2 foot tops????? Ok........ And yeah of course moving images come into play.... But even as we speak this next low is affecting the fetch

It has sort of "stretched the fetch".... Hey that rhymes!!!!....... It has elongated it, nd it's energy as we speak is being pointed toward seq...
http://www.metvuw.com/forecast/forecast.php?type=rain&region=swp&noofdays=7
So we are looking at a 24hr period of decent winds towards you guys, don.... But this low hasn't done exactly what it was meant to.... Maybe it has one last trick....

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:19pm

Yeah looks to be a touch bigger than 2ft sorry Don at exposed breaks south of the border.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:39pm

For Friday in Nth NSW, around the border? But GFS isn't progging anything over 2ft come Friday in Nth NSW....evern your WAMS aren't showing it?

http://www.swellnet.com/reports/australia/new-south-wales/ballina/forecast

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:45pm

Yes, they need tweaking for these small longer-range mid period swells. On that data I'd say inconsistent 2-3ft.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:50pm

Well then all your competitors WAMS must need tweaking also!!! If the current forecast comes to fruition, I can't see anything over 2ft at south facing beaches south of the border in Nth NSW come Friday morning.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:52pm

No, I think the wave model is forecasting the swell fairly well, it's our internal calculations manipulating the forecast data that needs to be tweaked a little.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:06pm

yep.. A few comments above I said I was wrong about it bombing.... Pay attention.... Even patted Don on the back a couple of days ago.... Nice when people admit they're wrong, aye boys..... Just stirring craig... But tell me who got the amalgamation of the two lows right? ( the retrograde of the first low into the second system).... And who pointed this out on Wed' last week?.....

"Split off low will weaken at around 160e30s , probably lunchtime thru mid arvo Friday.... All eyes should then re focus on the major low inland of Brisbane.... May move off SEQ coast early Saturday.... Sits off SEQ sat/sun...... Remnants of Fridays low (now near tip of North Is NZ) to retrograde back into this system late sunday... Possible bomb scenario Monday.....".......

Yeah didn't bomb..... But all else pretty close to the money, and still will be a good swell producer.....
BTW,,, the stormsurf comment to don and you was a just a stir up.... Hope you know that.... I'm sure donny does.... ;)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:10pm

Well geez SD. I mentioned the whole shebang two days prior to that, on Monday. 

https://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-northern-new-south-wales/2014/12/08/complex-period

Can we all move along now?

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 4:38pm

Ummm, no.... I think you should give credit where credit is due.... Pretty sure Southey was the first to bring this whole system/swell up.... I remember speaking to him 2 days prior to that... On Saturday.... ;p
http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/sydney-hunter-illawarra...

And we continued the "banter" here, early on Monday morning....
http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/eastern-tasmania/2014/1...

I know you Sydney siders must be a bit toey with that siege and all..... But Jeez...... Cmon guys.... Lighten up..... Don and I have a bet on....

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 9:49am

I think the Nth NSW reports from this morning have under reported it a bit also. Byron and Tweed wave buoys are both still showing some sizey swell is still in the water this morning at south facing beaches.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 10:03am

I noticed that too, Don.... Sunny coast has swell reported as sse.... ??? Closer to ese up that way I think..... But bottomline, You guys look like you had some great swell, a few sizey ones south of the border, and some more fun times on the way.....

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 11:33am

Yep, Ballina report over-cooked it severely on the weekend, as well as failed to realise that on the north side of those iconic headlands the waves were clean and cooking, and then added to the further kookocracy by severely undercooking it this morning.

No drama, people still went surfing and had fun. So good to get some real surf finally.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 2:19pm

So what size was it down your way this morning Steve?

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 2:35pm

Easy 4-5ft on the sets. Pretty sure you might have even called a couple of them 6ft Don.
Warm blue water finally displaced the cold upwelling water from the northerly pattern.
Water still chockas with catostylus.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 3:48pm

Is a catostylus a large jellyfish that looks like a blue cow pat on the beach ?
They look like something out of avatar.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 6:05pm

Thanks Steve. That's about what I would have said looking at the wave buoys.

mick-free's picture
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mick-free Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 2:50pm

Its pulsed at lunch today in Sydney got much more energy than this morning. Definitely 4-5 feet SE

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Monday, 15 Dec 2014 at 5:28pm

Sorry guys, running late today. Forecast will be up around 7:45pm Qld time.