Northerly regime to dominate

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 22nd October)

Best Days: Small window of light winds Thursday morning with peaky beachbreaks in most areas. Saturday afternoon and possibly Sunday morning are looking potentially really good for the Lower Mid North Coast. Northerly winds look like they'll ruin the surf elsewhere.

Recap: A small, infrequent east swell produced 2-3ft sets at most exposed beaches yesterday and today. Additionally, a small southerly groundswell and a short range SE swell also provided additional options at exposed beaches. Unfortunately, apart from a few brief windows of light winds, conditions have remained generally average to poor at most location. 

This week (Oct 23-24)

A brisk northerly regime will dominate the NSW coast for the next three or four days, although winds will initially be more easterly in direction in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW. 

As such, surf prospects will largely hinge around these winds and their effects at exposed beaches. For most locations there’s not much to get excited about but if you’re lucky - and live between about Yamba and Seal Rocks - there may be a few windows of opportunity over the weekend. 

Surf wise, the small east swell in the water today is expected to persist through Thursday before easing slowly Friday. Due to the enormous travel distance, we’re likely to see very long breaks between sets but open beaches in most areas should see occasional sets between 2ft and possibly 3ft.

Elsewhere, freshening N/NE winds are not expected to contribute a great deal of short range swell until the weekend but we may see a few small waves (say, 2ft+) across the Mid North Coast on Friday, with smaller surf north from here. A weak trough in the central/eastern Tasman Sea may provide some small small E/SE energy through the end of the week but no major size is expected from this source. 

This weekend (Oct 25-26)

N/NE winds are expected to become very strong off the Northern NSW coast during Friday, which will generate some short range energy for Saturday

Due to the close proximity of the fetch to the mainland, its narrow width, and its limited extent north of the Qld/NSW border, we’ll see most of the size from this source across the Lower Mid North Coast (3-4ft+) with smaller waves along the North Coast (2-3ft) and smaller surf again in SE Qld (1-2ft). However it'll be quite bumpy to begin with due to the accompanying fresh to strong N/NE winds. 

As a shallow southerly change pushes along the southern NSW coast on Saturday, our swell-producing N/NE fetch will slide further away from the mainland, slowly aligning itself outside of the Lower Mid North Coast’s swell window - but possibly remaining inside SE Qld’s near swell window (although wave heights won’t be large here anyway, and local conditions will be very average). 

The upshot of this suggests that Saturday morning will probably be blown out at most locations but an improvement is expected in the south during the day as a trough associated with the southerly change influences the region, sliding northwards into the afternoon (current model guidance suggests it won’t reach further than about Yamba, but let’s wait and see how Friday’s data pans out).

If this occurs, most locations in the Far North NSW and SE Qld regions will be quite poor on Saturday but the afternoon session should be very good from Coffs Harbour south.

On Sunday, model guidance stalls this trough across the Mid North Coast, keeping northerly winds throughout the Far North NSW and SE Qld coasts, but allowing light winds to persist south of Coffs Harbour. Wave heights are likely to slowly ease during this time.

All in all it’s quite a complex pattern so I’ll take a closer look on Friday.

Long term (Oct 27 onwards)

An amplifying Long Wave Trough below the continent over the weekend is expected to drive a series of strong fronts south of the Tasman Sea early next week, which suggests a return to a persistent southerly swell regime through the middle to latter part of next week (that would only favour exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW). More on this in Friday’s notes. 

Comments

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 11:03am

So to continue on from the previous convo; is 'this' from out in the Pac, or has it developed from the ridge in the Tasman?

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 1:30pm

I think the swell direction from the spectral needs to be taken with a grain of salt to some extent. Forecast swell direction from the E/SE was around 95-100 deg. Latest spectral analysis has it showing around 135 deg which just happens to also coincide with the SE tasman ridge swell direction. I note the latest summary figures has the swell direction at 105 deg, which again doesn't correlate with the spectral direction but is much closer to the expected forecast E/SE groundswell direction.

https://new.mhl.nsw.gov.au/data/realtime/wave/Stn-byronbay

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:25pm

Yeah so there's no definitive way of identifying swell trains from completely separate sources, by looking at the buoys? I mean, I'm trying to figure out if you can figure out if there are clear trends from swell sources. On paper seems obvious... even when you disregard direction, you should be able to back calculate swell distance, size, etc from the buoys.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:28pm

I don't think you can hindcast swells just from wave buoy readings alone. A 12 sec period swell can be created from many locations off the coastline.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:29pm

You can totally do that with the spectra, but not the buoy graph readings. But as Don said, sometimes the spectra isn't totally reliable, but I find it much more accurate than the graph to give any idea of what swells are in the water and from where.

Sometimes a 19s acute S'ly swell will show on the spectra, expected by us forecasters, but it won't show on the peak period graph! Work that one out!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:39pm

So you can back calcuate swell distance (ie hindcast) from the spectral? But an east coast low can create a 12 sec period swell and a TC in the South Pacific Convergence Zone can also create a 12 sec period swell, so how do you hindcast the swell distance from the spectral buoy?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:42pm

No, was answering to Mitch's question..

"so there's no definitive way of identifying swell trains from completely separate sources, by looking at the buoys?"

Yes you can identify the myriad of different swells in the water from the spectra.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:44pm

Ahhh, I see....makes more sense then.

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:56pm

Yes, so it needs checking against what was possibly generated. It's kind of like in geology, you can never just expect to 'rock up' and know the history of a rock from it's current state. You need to have hints about it's origin from other sources, and cross check...

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:52pm

E.g. 22kts for 70hrs and 1000 nautical miles creates seas of 12ft @ 12sec vs 45kts for 12hrs and 170 nautical miles creates seas of 23ft @ 12sec, then decays over approx 200NMi to 12ft...

The former would have to be generated adjacent to the buoy, and have noise; hence my confusion with swell developing from the ridge...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 11:12am

From way out in the South Pacific. Same swell that arrived late Monday and continued through Tues/Wed. It's been in the water down here in Sydney too for the last few days.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 11:15am

Yes, and that other noise from the SE at lower periods appears to be from the ridge in the Tasman.

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 11:40am

Ok so 115deg is the NZ swell shadow cut off, so it just makes it in. It'd be the SE lower period swell that's providing most of the surf yeah?

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 1:14pm

Mitch, less writing and more surfing mate... Make the most of it.. foreseeable future looks atrocious......

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 2:58pm

hey, YOU started it :P

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 1:51pm

Hey, I'm on an island the always has swell on one of it's coasts... You're on the sunny coast... In spring..... Just trying to help ya before the flat sets in ;)

Domsurfs's picture
Domsurfs's picture
Domsurfs Thursday, 23 Oct 2014 at 8:12pm

How do you get up to date spectra information please. And how do you interpret it. Thanks heaps

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 1:53pm
mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 4:43pm

At least you have a spectra Mitch...ours has gone tits up

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 4:46pm

No need for spectra tomorrow, whole day of pumping waves on the beaches, yew!

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 5:14pm

what in WA??

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 5:24pm

Here, 3ft+ NE swell with offshore tending southerly winds, mmmm.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 5:28pm

Off topic wrong coast;)

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 24 Oct 2014 at 8:44pm

We always off topic Welly, that way we can hide from the trolls, but I really miss the Spectra. It's like not having the car keys in your pocket. You go searching for them but they aren't there. Its been so nice having the spectra but now its gone I have to actually look at the swell to figure out the direction.