Small and clean in SE Qld, large and windy in Northern NSW
South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 3rd September)
Best Days: Thurs: very large and windy surf in Northern NSW, with small clean waves in SE Qld. Fri: slowly easing S/SE swell with early SW winds tending S'ly during the day. Best in SE Qld (where it'll be much smaller). Sat/Sun: Fun small waves along the semi-exposed points in SE Qld.
Recap: Small easing E/SE swell across open beaches Northern NSW on Tuesday, with not much at all in SE Qld. A large new southerly swell is advancing along the NSW coast today, having delivered 10-12ft surf at exposed spots around Sydney and Newcastle this morning. The Mid North Coast has already reported very large surf at exposed spots, and we’re now seeing the leading edge of this energy make its way north of the border (where it’s obviously a lot smaller due to the swell direction). It hasn’t reached the Sunshine Coast yet but we should see the bulk energy fill in across all areas overnight.
This week (Sep 4-5)
This Tasman Low is a mighty fine specimen. Very strong core winds, slow forward trajectory, close proximity to the mainland, but aligned in such a manner such that the coastal margin is receiving only an occasional lash of the associated wintry weather, compared to the onslaught of an ECL or hybrid tropical low.
Sure, from a surfing perspective it’s either marginal or fantastic (with not much between) but this event certainly won’t be short lived; there’s plenty more to come for the rest of the week and even the weekend.
The core fetch around this Tasman Low is still quite active, positioned east of about Sydney but aimed to points further north. A quick scan of the recent synoptic charts shows that the low itself is very slow moving, of which it’s expected to begin a slow eastwards track on Thursday.
As such, we’re looking at another day of large waves from the southern quadrant on Thursday across Northern NSW. Windy conditions will prevail across much of the region, but the key feature here is the axis of the low, which looks to be positioned roughly between Port Macquarie and Seal Rocks. Locations north of here are looking to see early W/SW tending SW winds; strengths will be greatest south of Ballina, and as you get closer to the low’s axis - from Port Macquarie south - we may see more of a chance for S/SW winds (of probable gale force strength plus).
What this means is that the Far Northern NSW coast is looking at fresh offshore winds across true semi-exposed points on Thursday, with a large southerly swell - still likely to be somewhere in the 10ft+ range at exposed south facing beaches, with smaller surf (say, 6ft+) across most open beaches (and smaller inside sheltered southern corners). Surf size might be a smidge higher across the Mid North Coast but it’ll also be more raw in quality, as well as wind affected.
In South East Queensland, Thursday's surf size will vary massively between exposed south facing spots and the greater Gold and Sunshine Coast beaches (including the semi-exposed points). As I said in Monday’s notes, I’m never very confident in south swells north of the border - no matter how impressive the responsible weather system looks on the charts - so I’m going to play it somewhat conservatively and be pleasantly surprised if we see bigger surf than forecast.
For now, I'm gunning for inconsistent 2-3ft sets across most locations in South East Queensland, but with bigger waves at the region's handful of exposed south swell magnets (possibly up to 5-6ft). It’ll be a bit of work sniffing around for the right combo, as the size and inconsistency of this south swell may render the points too much hard work with any degree of crowd. But some of the exposed beachies could be easily overpowered. You see the dilemma?
Friday doesn’t looking quite as good for Northern NSW. As the Tasman Low moves slowly eastwards, and a ridge of high pressure builds across southern NSW, we’ll see gusty S/SW winds tending S’ly across Northern NSW and into SE Qld (maybe not until late in the day north of the border). This will confine the only surfable options to protected points, who’ll be wearing an easing S/SE swell. Early morning should still see SW winds and great options at semi-exposed points (for those seeking size) but just be wary of the likelihood of a wind change.
South swell magnets in Northern NSW should be down to 6-8ft by this time, with smaller 3-5ft surf at remaining open beaches. South East Queensland will see smaller surf: I still think we’ll see inconsistent but long lined sets in the 2ft to maybe 3ft range across much of the Gold and Sunshine Coasts - and south swell magnets will be considerably bigger (albeit more wind affected).
This weekend (Sep 6-7)
Although wave heights are expected to ease all weekend, it looks like both Saturday and Sunday will be best suited to the Gold and Sunshine Coasts, compared to Northern NSW.
Onshore winds are expected to prevail across the entire region (S/SE tending SE) as a high pressure system across southern NSW extends a ridge across Northern NSW and Southern Queensland, and this will focus the best waves to protected locations.
We should see a morning S/SW breeze in a handful of locations - the southern Gold Coast tops out my list here - but the semi-exposed points won’t have a great deal of size, somewhere in the 2ft+ range across most beaches with south swell magnets picking up considerably more size as per usual.
In Northern NSW surf size will be a lot bigger but these winds will cause problems away from the sheltered points. Let’s take a closer look on Friday to see if there’s any fine tuning to be done on the wind outlook. Regardless, we’re looking at a very slow easing trend in the size department in all areas with Saturday expected to display the biggest waves.
Longer term (Sep 8 onwards)
The models have downgraded the front originally expected to push through the southern Tasman Sea on Sunday. Consequently, surf potential has been scaled back for early next week (around Wed). We’ll still see some new southerly energy during this period but it’ll really only favour exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW.
The only other area of interest is the possibility of a strengthening ridge across the Northern Tasman Sea early next week which may give rise to (another!) unseasonal short range east swell for Southern Queensland through the middle to latter part of the week. Let’s see how things are stacking up in Friday’s updated notes.
Comments
it was pretty spesh the way that swell went from zero to hero in an hour .
Ok here's a weird one. Why is the mooloolaba wave buoy picking up way more of this swell than the goldy buoy?
Seems to be picking up a similar amount as per the Tweed buoy, but (surprisingly) a little more than the Goldy buoy. The Mooloolaba is (according to EPA data) due east of Yaroomba so it's not super sheltered from south swells.. perhaps this pulse just has the magic numbers for the Sunny Coast.
Perhaps it's just the groundswell component, and all the windswell just didn't make it round the corner?
wait up that doesn't really explain the difference in heights, but I was more thinking that could be why there's no trend of large to small Tweed - Seaway - Mbah...
Any E sources adding on to the Mbah buoy?
My old south swell magnet just a brisk walk from our home on the sunny coast, a semi secret coffee rock reef/sand combo will be choice pick this morning... Probably only 3 foot, but uncrowded and perfect
This spot - http://www.swellnet.com/photos/swellnet-sessions/winter-sunshine-coast
Ben. Don't forget that with the location of the tweed buoy its readings are impacted on when the swell is from the south. So in reality there's more swell actually hitting the tweed coast than the buoy is showing. So the tweed will be bigger than the sunny coast. But my point is why is the SC showing more swell than the goldy buoy?
Bathymetry at its best perhaps?
Yep Don - bathymetry is the most likely answer (which is what I was referring to with the term "magic numbers" - that being a very specific period and direction). Something I've been researching for a long time and hope to have some more conclusive answers for in the near future.
Bathymetry isn't my thing....... But what I have noticed over the years with these setups is hidden sse swell.... Not the acute ssw swell close to the coast, but swell generated around the 35 -40s x 155 -165e.... Add a smidgen of coriolis, and presto....
I have no scientific proof of this....
Here's another factor - distance from the nearest swell shadow.
Both bouys have a similar heading between their position and their closest (southern influencing) landmass - for Moololaba, the NE tip of Moreton Island (151.34°) and for the Gold Coast, I've used Cook Island (151.98°).
However, the Moololaba buoy is 58.64km from Moreton Island, whilst the Gold Coast buoy is only 28.92km from Cook Island.
Without running a nearshore swell model to explain graphically, it's fairly well understood that under these kinds of swell setups, wave heights will be larger with increasing northerly distance from the swell shadow. So if you had a buoy off South Stradbroke Island - on the same heading - I'd expect larger wave heights (unfortunately, the slight curvature of the coast means that the same heading would be impossible).
Does that make sense?
It does make sense.... Over 1/2 a degree difference - 151.34....151.98.... I know it's a pissfart...... What I do note is an unusual amount of east in this "south swell" at all Qld buoys..... Hence my comment at 11.05am
Yeah swell directions at SE Qld buoys are very complex. Obviously, it's impossible for the recorded swell direction at the buoys to be anything south of 151° (unless it's local S'ly windswell originating from Moreton Bay!) however the buoys are located very close inshore and by this time all swell energy is heavily attenuated.
In the case of Moololaba, swell direction has swung 32°, which is quite an acceptable degree of refraction from a long period southerly groundswell (water depth at the buoy is only 33m).
Yep,Coffee rock,beachies very nice this morn up to 4ft on the sets,only spots breaking up the long lines. Coolum sthwards very small.Sunshine surfable but bit straight.
"Dogs" ;)
Also.. very rough calcs - 15 sec swell period starts to feel the ocean floor at around 175m water depths.
As per the charts below, this is quite a fair way east of Moreton Island (I've highlighted in red on the low res chart.. the high res chart shows the position a little better if you can work through data cluster).
This is the approx point where it'll start refracting into the coast (the actual level of refraction dependent on bathymetry).
Impressive, Ben.... Is 54' refraction ok? How did you arrive at 32'? Is the swell on the sunny coast this morning a direct south swell from 180', or is it in the 160ish zone?
I.e. how do you know it isn't coming from wider (160) and refracting less? Byron spectral analysis has a range of swell directions...
Well, we don't know. But a quick hindcast of the model data (and ASCAT returns) of the responsible fetch shows that it's a pretty rock solid south swell moving up the Northern NSW coast and refracting into SE Qld.
Well, it's really hard to get a bearing on the true swell direction off the shelf as it'll obviously have done some refraction 'round Cape Byron.
However, I used the Point Lookout (Brisbane) buoy - in 70m of water - as the directional datum for this back-of-the-envelope mini project.
It's currently reporting 149.1°, which - if we assume it to be the pure direction (although it's not) - is very close to the swell shadow direction between the tip of Moreton Island and the Moolooaba buoy.
Because they're so close, I just took the swell shadow heading (151°) from the reported swell direction at the Moolooaba buoy when I last checked it (119°), which gave 32 degrees of refraction (interestingly, the swell direction at the Moolooaba buoy is now 125°, so the refraction is even less than it was earlier (now 26 degrees of refraction).
Of course, these numbers are all very rough and crude but I just wanted to use this data and images to validate the theory that it's simple swell refraction at play at Mooloolaba this morning, of which there's also a plausible reason for the Gold Coast buoy's wave heights being smaller (closer proximity to the swell shadow landmass than Mooloolaba buoy).
How unique is it for the SC buoy to be larger than GC under sth swells, and larger than any error margin?
It's rare from my observations, particularly noting that there's also no windswell contamination in either buoy.
But I'm happy with Bens detailed analysis. But I'd like to see similar bathymetry charts for the Goldy buoy also please!!
Yeah, as i said below, unfortunately I'm not going to be the one to do the proper statistical analysis. It's hard to dismiss back of the envelope calcs when they turn into a mini project!
To be honest I haven't ever paid a lot of attention. But it's worth looking into.
So at the end of the day we can't rule out the fact that it's a one off anomaly...
Well, that's different. Don asked a question and I've given a bunch of data and images in support of my answer (all of which seem to fit conventional oceanographic theory, too).
Yeah, everything discussed here has a solid plausibility. Unfortunately I'm not going to be the one to keep a detailed record of this and see if it's a significantly repeating trend or just an anomaly. It is an interesting exercise though which can be applied elsewhere...
Well interesting. Great info Ben.
Mitch Very Good, I like your comment, "everything discussed here has a solid plausibility"
Thats got to be a line from Myth Busters for sure;)
Haha cheers Welly, not sure how I feel about being compared to infotainment specialists.... I'll take it glass half full :P
Would never compare yourself to Myth Busters Mitch Very Good.
But being infotainment is plausible :P
'dogs'? if its where i think it is i did glance up that way to see a solid pack,and thought to Meself there's somthing going on up there!
Here's the Goldy data Don. 175m water depth contour is about 25km off the coast (red line on first chart).
Second chart shows how complex the bathy is around Cook Island (and out to Nine Mile) hence why Tweed buoy data gets a little fruity at times.