Fri 13 April 12:00am
Unknown, unsponsored, unbelievably shacked.
When this Duranbah sequence landed in front of me I was trying to identify who the surfer was. After all, with a smooth, mid-face transition into a long and well-ridden pit you'd think the fella would be sponsored, right?
But then, upon closer inspection, I noticed a Billabong sticker on the board and a Quik logo on the vest. He ain't sponsored, this bloke is a punter just like you and me! Albeit one with advanced tube sense and a slick yet understated style - but a punter nonetheless. And he's jagged the wave of the morning, ridden it with aplomb (and without any claiming), before ending up here, on Swellnet, in front of your eyes.
Onya mate.
Sequence by Jack Dekort.