Tension and Release
Mick Fanning gives us a great example of tension and release or, in other words, stalling for the pit.
Quick to his feet Mick stays low, buries his arm to the elbow and keeps all his weight back. All the speed shaved off he remains in a crouched position till the wave takes shape and starts to pitch. Between shots 7 and 8 is where the transformation takes place, where he releases the tension and begins the acceleration.
For the next few shots Mick is pumping hard to adjust his speed to that of the wave. By shot 11 he's in just the position he wants to be so sets the inside rail for a well-timed run through a lovely bowl, with a Johnny-on-the-spot photographer getting the shot (the photographer is Gold Coast bodyboarder Matt Lackey).
A great wave, well-ridden. All shots taken by Adam Weathered. //STUART NETTLE