On This Day: The Volcom Fiji Pro Swell at Cloudbreak
Ten years ago today - June 8th, 2012 - contest organiser Matt Wilson canned the day's proceedings at the Volcom Fiji Pro, effectively giving the green light to a big wave session for the ages.
A large chunk of the world's best big wave riders had flown in Nadi on the off chance the comp was cancelled, and now it was. The final piece of the day's jigsaw was Volcom deciding to keep the webcast running so punters worldwide could watch it in real time.
See the video above for how it unfolded.
Once it was over, Swellnet spoke to Tavarua owner Jon Roseman about big Cloudbreak, how often it happens, and why, when Fiji had been popular since the 80s, it took so long for the world to realise it's one of the world's best big waves.
Swellnet: The Volcom Pro Fiji wasn't the first swell of that size in recent times, in September 2010 a similar size swell hit, how often does Fiji get hit by swells of this magnitude?
Jon Roseman: Fiji gets hit by several large swells a year. The problem that I've seen over the years is that by the time they get to Fiji the surface conditions can really vary. Because the wind is predominately southeast trades, a lot of these swells can get lumpy and the lines broken up by the local outside wind conditions, turning it into a large windswell. Fortunately Restaurants and some of the other waves can get good when it's like that.
Was last year's Volcom swell the largest you've seen Cloudbreak? If not, when was the largest swell and how big did it get?
Last year's Volcom swell was definitely one of the larger ones, and what made it unique was the interval and the light winds in the evening. Unfortunately the next morning the trade lump caught up with it and tore it apart.
I've been fortunate to both witness and ride several others, there's probably been a dozen or so similar days in the last ten to twenty years that have been really clean. One crazy one was Easter Day in 1995. We had just started towing out there on the big days with underpowered skis and this one particular day was sunny and sheet-glass all day. What was amazing was that driving out to Cloudbreak to tow it looked only 3 to 4 foot except there were giant foam balls in the channel and restaurants was 8 to 10 foot. It was probably 20 to 25 and not a drop of water out of place or ripple on the face. Really dreamy and scary at the same time.
Why did it take till September 2010 for the wider world to realise Cloudbreak received, and indeed handled, such size?
I think it was probably the rarity of being that big and super-clean coupled with Restaurants firing when there's any swell that big.
Many years ago Tom Servais took a picture of Conan Hayes looking back at a towering Cloudbreak lip, do you remember that swell?
That was definitely one of the best days over the last couple decades. We actually towed it for a few hours before the trade got on it. I remember there were some crazy swing-wides that were going below sea level. Every big day out there has it's own unique look- almost like a different surf spot each time. This day was ledging so hard on the biggest sets that it was hard to know how deep you were and it was also scary for the driver because one second you're on a lump and the next it's a 15 to 20 foot double-up.
Are all of Fiji's large swells produced by the same sequence of weather events?
It depends. Obviously the bigger the storm down in the Tasman the better, but so much has to do with the fetch and how long the storm lasted in the slot. A lot of times we'll keep charts as reference and go back and try to understand the conditions that translated into big surf and the timing of them. In the old days before Surfline, etcetera, we would to have to go to the Nadi airport and look at the hand-drawn maps used for aviation and predict that way.
Lastly, are there other more protected spots in Fiji that work under these heavy swells?
Restaurants is really protected; if you look at an aerial shot you'll see how far inside the channel it breaks - it's almost like the inside of a river mouth. There are quite a few really good waves in Fiji with a similar setup.
Comments
I remember shitting myself on a trip out to Frigates one year because it took so long to crest and trough the swell. Oil slick glass and only 3 others out all day, some of the best waves of my life.
That mutant at the 4:00 minute mark stole the show. The wave of that sesh (backhander anyway) was Reef McIntosh's keg. Blows me away.
A good waste of 20 mins or so is watching the vid where Kelly is commentating that session. Not hard to find.
And if those aren't enough, there's a full documentary called "Thundercloud" with interviews. I got it at google movies but there are probably a few places you can watch it:
https://play.google.com/store/movies/details?id=uj4TzK3y8gM
Free here: https://www.redbull.com/au-en/films/thundercloud
agreed! Reef McIntosh or Ian Walsh for me
Wow great vid, I assume Fiji will be going off again for the next couple of week!
Yeah, all week with the peak of it hitting Wednesday. Already word of a few name surfers shooting over there and I reckon there'll be a few Americans onto it too.
One of the best days of surfing ever, I reckon. So many highlights.
THAT Healey wave was just not meant to be ridden.
And not an inflatable vest to be seen.
Which is crazy. I've thought I was going to drown on 6ft days out there. CB gasses you like nowhere else
What was Pat Gudang wearing just a Foam Buoyancy Jacket thingy ?
Ramon Navarro for me.
So deep and long, aye.
Unbelievable session. Can’t wait to see what comes out of there next week. Would’ve been good to see the paddle ins and take offs.
Bet Laurie has his ticket booked
So mechanical and so intimidating. Never had such a feeling of dread after dropping off the back of ones I didn’t quite get into. You do the slow turn of the head and see what is about to stalk you. It can be terrifying even at 5ft. Could not fathom 10,15,20 etc
I had a sprint paddle to the shoulder next to another guy. We were no more than 2 feet apart. He was inside of me. I just made it under the bigger one. He got taken across the reef. Didn’t see him for 15 mins. Turned up very second hand.
That part in Thundercloud where Kohl Chistensen is talking about THAT wave and said Healey was on his inside paddling over it and he was so glad he wasn't him continues to crack me up
In the three man vote, Kieren Perrow was absent, his absence nor whereabouts never explained. The surfer rep in his place was never named.
Stu, you exchanged an email (or two) with him in the immediate aftermath of the event. Did you ask him where he was or who was the surfers rep in his absence?
If so, where was he and who was his replacement as surfers rep?
If not, why not? Didn’t think it was relevant? Not your job as a surf editor? Apparently you weren’t technically a surf journalist at that point.
"If not, why not? Didn’t think it was relevant? Not your job as a surf editor? Apparently you weren’t technically a surf journalist at that point."
What's the half-life of your spite?
Seriously...having a go at me ten years after the fact...let it go, mate.
He’s pissed cause you didn’t ask about a surfers rep?
I’m surely missing some contextual facts..
Context Nick is that every surf magazine and website (and a few mainstream media outlets) ran stories about the decision to call the contest off or on.
The 3 man panel deciding whether to run or not consisted of the head judge (Renato Hickel I think), Matt Wilson and the surfers rep, which was supposed to be Kieran Perrow.
But Kieran was apparently not around on the day and another surfer took his place. Exactly who, nobody knows.
Why is it important?
If in fact there was no surfer rep, and the ASP didn’t follow its own processes then the comp quite rightly could have been declared null and void.
Matt Wilson was thrown under the bus as mainly responsible but the mysterious surfer rep has never been named.
The story made headline news in the surf media at the time and Stu probably knew the real story as he had been in email contact with Kieran just after the event finished.
And yet even 10 years later he’s still not prepared to tell us what he knows.
Or maybe he just didn’t think to ask Kieran his whereabouts or what went on.
The fact that Kieran went AWOL on such an important day didn’t appear to hold him back, he was made tour commissioner not long after.
I guess Stu can get his back up that I’ve mentioned it again but I’m genuinely fascinated to know what happened.
I’ll speculate and suggest that Kieran was indeed there. I think he was told by the powers that be that all the big wave boys are in town and they’re going to have a televised big wave session instead of the comp no matter what Kieran thinks.
Kieran kept his mouth shut, concocted a story about being off the island and was duly prompted for his compliance.
The televised malarkey of Matt Wilson saying it’s too dangerous (while the vision showed Ryan Hipwood making an incredible barrel) made the whole story even more farcical.
The unnamed surfers rep in all likelihood didn’t exist.
Anyway, I enjoyed watching the telecast but a part of me would have liked to see the contest run.
Categorically denied. I've spoken/emailed Kieran once in my life and it had bugger all to do with Cloudbreak. I recall there being contention that the contest was cancelled for the day and not postponed, and that Matt Wilson was involved, but subsequent emails are fabrications of an over-stimulated mind. Same with claiming I'm clutching on to some precious truth about the day.
It was ten years ago. Life has rolled on. Just enjoy it for what it was for god's sake.
Yes mate, just as you remember, my mistake
Maybe he would of prefered to see the contest run and the pros,the ones that would of attempted anyway,try to get their 6'6 'guns' into the waves,and if they could,fall from the sky or skittle out trying to make their boards bottom turns,ala pat gadauskas lol.
No spite mate, just a raw statement of facts and re-asking a couple of unanswered questions. Sorry if that offends you.
So where was Kieran that day and who was his replacement? You did ask him right?
Ten years ago!
ha ha ha...you're a fucking weird bloke hey?
Thanks Stu, that was the answer I was expecting
Yes, and now who was that too-happy person in the surf..?
What a beast of a wave, that wave just before Wassell's has the thickest lip ever!
Hope it's epic for the paddlers and Beautifully bombing out there.
I remember ducking home from work that morning for something. Turned on the tv to check what was going on with the contest. Didn't go back to work for the rest of the day. Was insane viewing.
Would be interesting to see if the current WSL would run the contest. They should have an alternative format for days like this. Put the whole round out for a 3 hour heat. Top half progress. Would be great viewing.
If they did,JJF would be about the only bloke in his element out there.
I remember he jagged a couple that day as a 19 year old.
Not the best waves of the session like some of those big wave surfers caught,but still waves most of the current pros have never been seen catching,and i'm sure some never will.
I reckon he'd own it if they held a comp there in those kind of conditions now.
As long as he had the right size boards with him.
The fact Slater wasn't out there that day and elected to commentate it instead says a lot.
And he's the best cloudbreak surfer from the tour in history.
Probably some of the most epic footage I've ever seen. Day of days.
Wasssellllll!!!
Is a massive wanker.
Sick wave.
Agree.
I really think that massive unridden mutant wave at 4.00 is still the most insane , beautiful , horrific thing I have seen at any surf break.
It’s incredible isn’t it.
I can’t fathom what would of been going through Healey’s head at the time.
This footage is mental, Grinding down the reef. They are hooking and covering mega ground on some.
Estimates on speed of the waves please.. ??30/40 kph +
I'm stoked the comp was scrapped, Those with the gear took it on and got the results they were looking for. Under gunned would have been a waste of a lifetime opportunity for some of the worlds best paddlers. They live and breathe for this stuff. A day of days out there.
If crew wanted it they took it on even if under gunned for a bit until the swell jacked. But they would have had a hard time with increasing swell. (There is a limit regarding skill and equipment) The world tour is vastly different to the big wave paddle arena.
I don't think you can compare the two disciplines as they are different athletically and mentally and often how line ups and the really big days play out. The big wave crew are seasoned to their craft just as the top 44 are. Some would have taken it on but some don't carry real heavy water experience in my opinion and that is a recipe for disaster from a safety point. You either are ready or you are not. I also don't think every surfer approaches or has the means to become comfortable in life threatening situations. I don't see it as a weakness just a different mind and skill set.
Most stops on the tour are not this intimidating or rare. It's different horses for corses. Entertainment is cheap. It's heavy as out there when they are in the zone paddling. The big wave crew are most certainly going to push it the most as they are the most comfortable in these conditions. They live it and some won't even make an appearance unless it's off it's head in regards to size.
They are In another zone regarding comfortability and experience in macking conditions.
A good days surfing never looks like this but some accept and prepare as well as possible for the risk. They know they could die if it goes pear. Pretty wild.
old little paddle amp from puerto
Slater about to jump off the boat saw a Mega Set and said Im not here for that...
And didnt go..
I remember it well. Freaking amazing. There is a gulf between these guys and the WSL, also shown on that huge Teahupo day. Even Martin Potter was aghast.
Cloudbreak is the undisputed best allround break in the world in my opinion.
There's just no where else in the world that can do what is does from 3 ft to 30 ft.
Quite a few indo waves are more or less on par in the 4 to 8 ft range.
A smaller handful up to 10 ft.
Over that they're nearly all maxed out,or not comparable for the barrel quality,eg 15 ft ulus compared to 15 ft cloudbreak.
The Forerunners looking nice
The place is a magnet! EC model only has 1m @13sec there today (similar yesterday), 3m @15sec on Wednesday should look interesting...
Never gets old. I just keep enjoy watching this. Mick Fanning's wave is great as is his wipe out at the end. The way he just skips along the water. No way I'd be out there! Deepest respect to anyone paddling CB in any size.
Pretty sure C.B has a 1000m drop off out the back of the reef. Anything with period on those outer Fijian reefs gets greatly enhanced in size once they arrive.
Not usually that into drone footage but i love this clip. It shows the true bulk of the swell energy on a big day at Cloudbreak.
Froth levels are on the rise for next week, should be some good action over there
Paul McD , your bang on . Most of the reefs facing south around the Viti Levu outer islands just drop straight off . A mate who ran surf charters out of PI back in the day took us all around the atolls in this big alloy Broadbill boat . Sitting off Frigates one day I looked at the depth sounder . We were anchored just off where the wave "turns" into the channel . The sounder went 45' . . .670' , as it rocked to and fro .
Yep, so deep off there @PCSPeterPan. That's some wild readings. I've had to bolt and duck under Teahupoesque backless double ups that have just appeared out of the abyss as thick black lumps and slurped onto the ledge. It's wild out there. Great spot to jump off and do some free diving. That same day the swell forecast was 1.8m at 18 seconds. Expected 6 foot. The sets were close to double that and just step ladders. Huge lulls which made it all the more daunting bobbing around for 20 odd minutes staring at a flat ocean before those badboys motored in out of the South. I actually get goosebumps wondering what terrifying things it will be doing in this swell. Gets to a size where it becomes a Fijian Teahupoo.
Going to be real interesting to see what happens and in regards to what was learn't and is now desired from that last mega swell. (Big wave chess) I hope they take it next level paddling out there and find themselves in the perfect spot. Healy has got to be there surely but it could and will be any of the seasoned for the taking. Bit of a historic moment to come if all aligns. Maybe a bit of swell chasing after Wednesday for some too. Is the outer ledge ridable by paddle at the size of the previously unridden? Crew will go and time will tell. I want to see them progress as they have at jaws. Paddle has evolved pretty quick of late. Boundaries have been broken. rad stuff.
No standout for mine!
Warriors, the lot of em!
Yeah
BOOM! First light at Cloudy.
And so it begins
Looks like it might have peaked through the night though.
Looking forward to seeing footage and pics from there today.
Boom and boom again for old mate with the red board.
https://youtube.com/shorts/iovJk7A_X9Y?feature=share
Ua levu!!
Cheers Udo! That last wave of Koa's where he comes over the foamball and is fully extended and airborn.... Insane!
JW
FUUUCK!
Good on him
FILTHY!!!!